What size main fuse to use with battery relocate?

[Mxvxc]

Putting back together the pieces of a '69 wagon. Wiring was shot to sh!t and battery tray cut out to make room for POs Z20S swap. So I'm relocating the batter to the back, but am unsure what size main fuse I should use? Nothing fancy going in as far as electronics. Have all the wiring done, voltage regulator removed as it wasn't required anymore, headlights and electric fan are running off relays. On;t other thing that will be going in at some point is a nothing fancy stereo. Any thoughts or input would be helpful and appreciated.

 

Thanks

 

[datzenmike]

Nothing. Everything electrical, other than the starter, passes through the main fusible link which is connected from the fuse box down to the starter lug. All you need do is make sure the re-positioned positive battery cable is armored against abrasion.

 

Welding cable is good and easily sourced. Once the length is sorted, sheath inside a garden hose

[Mxvxc]

Do you off the top of your head, know what size fuseable link is? I haven't seen it while under the hood, I'm sure it's just hiding wrapped up within the wiring harness. I have also kicked the idea around of running a second fuse block for whatever gets added, so I would like to l know what would be a good size fuseable link to throw inline if/when I add that? Appreciate your help with this.

[datzenmike]

Well the fusible link is just to protect the heavy gauge wire supplying the power to... whatever. In addition every component added to it should have it's own individual fuse.  Obviously the fusible link must be able to handle everything expected to flow through it, but also be less than the wire it protects. Look on the starter lug for a wire traveling up to the fuse box above it. See what color it is.  Nissan uses a color code on fusible links.

 

 

I added a thick power cable to my battery for amplifiers and what not. I put a 50 amp in line fuse in. Doesn't have to be a fusible link for something like that. Just remember the fuse must be small enough to blow before the wire does or the wire current rating more than the fuse. I keep several replacements in the glove box.

[G8KeaPoR]

So I’m in the process of rewriting mine and I put a main battery terminal fuse block from a 93 RX7 I have a 100 amp for the alternater and then I ran a sized specific for the max draw for each relay fuse block and then gave the headlights and radiators their own circuits from their to keep their relays separate from my standard relay box.  Way over complicated to some but I spent way to many years rewriting air cooled 911’s for track use so I can’t help it. Either way though I would run a fuse that is rateded to the max rating of the fuse box if you want to reduce the risk of over drawing and eventually burning your fuse box like just about every British car every made did until they sold to ford and others in the late 80’s.