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Eddie Cantina

Any master mechanics?

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Hi everyone. 

I’ve  got a 1974 620 pickup and am suffering from an alternator/ regulator dead battery nightmare. I’ve gone through these forums and fell like I’ve tried everything. Was wondering if anyone has a number I could call and discuss my issues and attempts. I don’t get on the internet all that often is why. Talking things over would be best for me. If not I’ll try my best to write my story here. Please and thank you. 

 

Dan from Idaho

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Go ahead... it's a forum where things are discussed, and there is always many alternate suggestions and things to try..

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So, my alternator which I’ve had in went out. Bearing wear or something. Got a reman Wilson alt and new regulator from O’reily. Go to put em in and i only read about 12.3 v with a multi meter. Everything about this truck is original. Like I said it’s a 74 620 California model so it’s got the egr and what not. Never been messed with as far as wiring goes. Fuses aren’t popping lately. A while back I had one continuously popping from a lose taillight wire grounding on the frame. I feel like I’ve gone through every square inch of wiring in this thing. Just finished pulling the dash and checking all those wires. Everything looks good. Any suggestions?

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What's the battery voltage with the engine off?

 

Make sure the dash light wire is hooked up. It should be marked L. If it's not hooked up the alternator won't 'turn on'.

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Also, just because it's remanufactured doesn't mean it's good. Don't be afraid to take it back to the part store to be tested. That will help you know if it's you... or the part.

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Got it bench tested. It passed. Also with the engine off it reads 12.3. Only thing I can get to change it is when it’s running and I turn the lights on it drops to 11.2ish.

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All I got on the alternator to hook to is a two prong plug for F and N, and then there’s E and A. And according to my 1974 Datsun book it should be hooked up right.

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13 minutes ago, Draker said:

Also, just because it's remanufactured doesn't mean it's good. Don't be afraid to take it back to the part store to be tested. That will help you know if it's you... or the part.

 

Truer words were never spoken. O'reily? They are the WallMart of auto parts stores aren't they? The fram of oil filters. The Cimarron of Cadillacs.

 

 

 

Why change the regulator if the bearing was bad in the alternator???? Now you have two things added to the equation. Double the chance that you have put a bad part in. Take the 'new' volt regulator out and put your old one in. If still not charging and it was before, the 'new' alternator must be at fault.

 

Black is ground on the case.

White/Red stripe is the power out from the alternator.

The other two wires have been swapped by the look of it. Should be Yellow to the F and White/Black to the N terminals

 

When you turn the ignition to ON does the charge light in the dash light up????

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F wire is the key here I think. The issue is the alternator is not turning on. I'm with mike, install the old regulator if it's still good. Just use it to test. 

 

You'll need voltage on the field wire to tell the alternator how much voltage to put out. 

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Checked again. Wires are were they should be on the alt. Also. I’ve put two regulators in in the past two days because I thought the first was bad outa the box. Unfortunately I don’t have my old one...

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13 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

 

 

 

When you turn the ignition to ON does the charge light in the dash light up????

 

What about this????

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Didn’t notice that the charge light came on. Also noticed that the blue hi beam light doesn’t come on when I turn that on. The light for the park break turns on.

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Charge light has to be connected. Bulb needs to be good.

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That's probably your issue. Just connect the gauge cluster if you want to test. Otherwise wait until it's back in.

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3 minutes ago, Eddie Cantina said:

Also, can I use dielectric grease on all my harnesses or will that’s cause problems?

 

Sure, go for it. I do on certain ones. Later nissan harness are complete shit and corrode really bad, so I tend to use it on the older stuff as well.

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The charge light must light. This provides a small voltage to the alternator rotor windings to form a magnetic field to get things started.

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Let us know if this resolves the issue!

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I wouldn't use dielectric.  If you insist on using a grease on electrical connections, use something like NO-OX-ID or Kopr-Shield

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Welp. Got it all together and no charge light comes on on the dash. Where do we go from here. And too late, already applied dielectric...

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Did notice that now it’s dark, the blue for high beams does in fact come on. Also, while the dash was out I checked all the bulbs. All are in order.

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