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620 starter wiring: which wire and what now?


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Trying to get my 620 to crank, and I’m not sure what to do next. I put in a battery, and the dash lights light up, but when I turn the key there’s no cranking. I swapped the black and yellow wire to the tab on the solenoid because I believe that’s how it should be (it originally had that other loose wire on it). After doing this, when I turn the key it makes a click, then doesn’t do anything. The click sounds like it’s coming from the relay box on the side of the engine bay, but I could be wrong. Any advice?

 

https://ibb.co/s5LfWcf

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Yellow/Black stripe is the start signal from the ignition switch, and it goes to the small terminal on the starter. It also feeds to a start relay but doesn't need the relay to turn the engine. In the START position there should be a loud click from the starter solenoid at least. 

 

 

23408-B3-E-B547-4014-A81-B-794-B3-E3-CA0

 

1/ Is the battery charged up? Put the lights on. Are they dim or full brightness? Dead battery won't turn the engine but the solenoid should chatter.

2/ Are the battery terminals and cable clamps clean and making good contact?

3/ Is the negative battery cable securely bolted to the head? The positive cable securely bolted to the starter?

4/ Is the starter securely bolted to the transmission?

 

Get an old wrench or screwdriver and bridge across the starter terminals from the positive cable to the terminal the Yellow/Black wire was on. This will simulate the start signal from the ignition. Have a care, the starter may engage so be out of gear! If the solenoid engages and the starter turns the engine then the start signal from the ignition is no good. This could be the ignition switch or it could be old wiring. If nothing happens and 1/ through 4/ above are checked then the  solenoid is bad.

 

 

Next oil change get rid of that fram filter and get a WIX or NAPA Gold or just about anything else.

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Thanks for all the help. 

 

I tried jumping across the two big terminals, and got nothing but a big spark. I turned the motor by hand so I know it’s not locked up. 

 

The battery is is fully charged (showing 14 volts). Is the wiring correct in the picture? Do you know what that other wire with the blue spade connector goes to?

 

I'm suspecting the battery cables may be at least part of the issue. They are old (maybe original), so I’ll replace those and see if it helps. 

 

And yeah, I agree that the Fram filters gotta go. 

 

I’ll also try the hot wire to the solenoid. 

 

Thanks again!

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you try my way first.?

 

+battery to the selinoid starter tab. tell us what happens.

 

I assume this what HOT wire means?

 

yes then clean cables.  The round part may crack if overtighten. One tighten more only for the crack to get bigger making it even worse.Clean ends of battery post and cables.

 

 

Edited by banzai510(hainz)
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I will be trying your suggestion first, that’s what I meant by hot wire. I tried jumping the power from the big stud onto the solenoid tab, and nothing happened, but maybe running a dedicated wire will help. 

 

Should the ignition be set to run or run or does it need to be help to start?

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I would use a say 14/16 ga wire and run righ to the battery post of the battery not the cable part and put it right to the selinoid starter tab(remove the starter wire of coarse)

 

Put in neutral and key can be off I suppose. Key is just to see if starter motor turns over.

 

The neg batter cable hopefully is good also. really both otherwise the batt cable cant carry the load once the starter kicks in.

If batt cables are new and still do this  with this test I say the Starter seliniod is really bad

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Could be the ignition switch but two of my cars the starter would just barely click and it would take several tries till the starter engaged. I measured the voltage on the Yellow/Black wire and it was 6 volts, under half what it should have been. Power flows along the harness all the way to the ignition and then all the way back to the starter. If you follow all the bends in the harness I bet it's well over 20 feet. If the voltage is weak you can use it to work a small relay to send a full 12 v to the solenoid.

 

headlightstartrelay.jpg

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5 hours ago, Speedymaru said:

Well for some reason, after using the jumper wire, the ignition works as it should. 

 

Also, my Weber to l20b manifold come in today, and I installed it and the Weber, and it fired up!

 

First start in 10+ years. Pretty excited 

Starter was probably just old and stuck.... at least it works....

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  • 3 years later...

Hey dudes, resurrecting this dead thread...

 

My 620 won't even attempt to turn over. A couple weeks ago I installed a new fuel pump and everything was going great.

 

Today I attempt to start & there is nothing but a groan. I used a multimeter and all the connection are strong. I bridged the positive battery terminal with the starter tab  directly & go sparks/clicking from starter motor but no turn over. Is this the sign that the starter motor is toast?

 

-James

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