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Help! Timing issue


Donedreamin

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Hey guys,

I just recently swapped over my headgasket, during the process my timing chain wedge popped out and my tensioner popped out. I tore down the front section of the motor, replaced all the timing components and followed hainz's youtube video along with following the how to rebuild your datsun motor book. 

I am 100% certain I aligned my cam/crankshaft correctly. I aligned my oil pump as per the procedure, my timing order is 180 degrees off, I flipped my matchbox dizzy to keep the electronics away from the exhaust. When running my timing is currently at 10 BTDC. Cylinder 3 is receiving spark, but isn't firing. When I pull the plug it is not soaked in fuel or fouled. Doesn't indicate a clean burn either.  

I am a little stumped and before I re-align my oil pump I decided to ask for a second opinion, unfortunately I have an event coming up this weekend and I decided to wait till the last minute to fix this. 

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My finger indicating which cylinder is 1, triple checked my firing order. 

 

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Any help greatly appreciated .. 

 

 

 

 

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Firing order is 1342 in a counter clockwise direction on the distributor. Check that the wires go to the correct plugs. Generally 2 and 3 are reversed if 180 out or set in a clockwise direction. 

 

If you can get the rotor on or very close to ANY plug wire on the cap... make this the #1 wire and just connect 3, 4, 2. wires to it's counter clockwise side. 

 

Failure to fire #3 could be the wire is swapped with #2?

Could also be that the intake or exhaust valve is held open by a too tight rocker arm adjustment.

Swap the #3 wire with another wire and see if the problem moves. If so maybe the plug wire is bad. Swap the plug and see if the problem moves... same thing.

Inspect the plug porcelain insulator and the cap for carbon tracking. This is a breakdown of the insulation where a spark has arched across the surface and burned a trail making it easier to arc again. Will look like a spider web or jagged scratch.

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Shit man I did the same thing when I had my head done. But I paid a buddy’s shop to reset the tensioner and that turned into a whole ordeal in and of itself.  

 

Did you lower the pan to get the timing cover off??

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2 hours ago, datzenmike said:

Firing order is 1342 in a counter clockwise direction on the distributor. Check that the wires go to the correct plugs. Generally 2 and 3 are reversed if 180 out or set in a clockwise direction. 

 

If you can get the rotor on or very close to ANY plug wire on the cap... make this the #1 wire and just connect 3, 4, 2. wires to it's counter clockwise side. 

 

Failure to fire #3 could be the wire is swapped with #2?

Could also be that the intake or exhaust valve is held open by a too tight rocker arm adjustment.

Swap the #3 wire with another wire and see if the problem moves. If so maybe the plug wire is bad. Swap the plug and see if the problem moves... same thing.

Inspect the plug porcelain insulator and the cap for carbon tracking. This is a breakdown of the insulation where a spark has arched across the surface and burned a trail making it easier to arc again. Will look like a spider web or jagged scratch.

 

Swapped #2 and #3 and voila, runs like a top! I had the firing order clockwise.

 

Mike you're a gem, thank you for all you do. 

Edited by Donedreamin
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1 hour ago, d.p said:

Shit man I did the same thing when I had my head done. But I paid a buddy’s shop to reset the tensioner and that turned into a whole ordeal in and of itself.  

 

Did you lower the pan to get the timing cover off??

 

I did not lower the pan, that is the correct way to do it. Unfortunately my pan doesn't seal properly as it was over tightened at some point and needs to be replaced. That was the reason I didn't drop mine. 

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Drop your oil pan and use a hammer and a dolly and tap the screw holes back flat.  When you go to re install your pan after all the other timing work is done and double checked glue your pan gasket to your pan with silicone adhesive before installing the pan.  this makes it easier when laying on your back to get the bolts started.  also torque your pan bolts. 4.3-6.5 ft·lb

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The original gaskets are neoprene rubber/cork mixture and made thick enough to compress. Often owners will tighten the bolts to stop a leak and the metal around the bolt will deform. As stated (you would have to remove to replace anyway) hammer them down flat. Use a straight edge to check your work and use a new gasket. On L20Bsat the back right?corner is a flat L shaped strip he bolts go through. This spreads the pressure evenly. I don't know why only one side. I had two so cut and now the entire back is supported.

 

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4.3-6.5 foot pounds tightening, that's barely wrist twisting tight. Use a torque wrench. 

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11 hours ago, Donedreamin said:

With that being said if anyone has a 521 L16 oil pan they would part with let me know! 😁

 

11 hours ago, Donedreamin said:

 

I did not lower the pan, that is the correct way to do it. Unfortunately my pan doesn't seal properly as it was over tightened at some point and needs to be replaced. That was the reason I didn't drop mine. 

 

How did you get the timing cover off with the engine in the truck? 

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56 minutes ago, wayno said:

You need to either loosen the oilpan and let it drop an eighth inch or you remove the head, you cannot just remove the front cover and put it back, it is too tight to do that.

 

Just by looking at this pictures his head is ON and so is his PAN so what gives?  

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35 minutes ago, Donedreamin said:

Your right, I managed to install the front cover without dropping my pan and with my head installed. Don't do it this way. I am pissing oil out of my pan gasket now. 
 

 

Shittay man.  When the shop did my chain tensioner they must have had the same problem because they put a ton of RTV on the pan whereas it had 0 prior.  Don't you just love working on these fucking things? 

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8 minutes ago, d.p said:

 

Shittay man.  When the shop did my chain tensioner they must have had the same problem because they put a ton of RTV on the pan whereas it had 0 prior.  Don't you just love working on these fucking things? 

 

You just said you had a shop do it for you, and then said "don't you just love working on these." So which is it?

 

There are plenty of harder things to work on, like modern cars. These Datsuns are extremely easy.

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24 minutes ago, mainer311 said:

 

You just said you had a shop do it for you, and then said "don't you just love working on these." So which is it?

 

There are plenty of harder things to work on, like modern cars. These Datsuns are extremely easy.

 

FFS retard, I said the SHOP DID MY CHAIN TENSIONER and having a shop work on my truck one time means I never worked on my truck.   

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26 minutes ago, d.p said:

 

FFS retard, I said the SHOP DID MY CHAIN TENSIONER and having a shop work on my truck one time means I never worked on my truck.   

 

If these trucks are such a pain to you, why do you have one then? You come on here and bitch and moan about everything, and voice your worthless opinion about everything everyone else does to their truck. Stop being such a twit.

Edited by mainer311
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2 minutes ago, mainer311 said:

 

If these trucks are such a pain to you, why do you have one then? You come on here and bitch and moan about everything, and voice your worthless opinion about everything everyone else does to their truck. Stop being such a twit.

 

Nah I am straight, Ill post, whine, bitch and share my opinion whenever the fuck I want to.  I could give two shits if it  bothers your dumb ass.  

 

 

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2 hours ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

you could try to lower the pan and cut out a section of a pan gasket and put it under the front cover section


I actually had the original intentions of doing this (via your video), cut the old one out and cut the gasket to fit. Couldn't get it to fit without dropping the pan and was hoping I could get away with an RTV temp fix until I swapped the pan but it's far more severe than original anticipating and will have to drop the pan. 

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2 hours ago, d.p said:

 

Shittay man.  When the shop did my chain tensioner they must have had the same problem because they put a ton of RTV on the pan whereas it had 0 prior.  Don't you just love working on these fucking things? 

 
As mentioned in the later comments, I did a timing assembly on my 3V 5.4 Ford motor and it was far more consuming and challenging, not to mention expensive. The beauty about this is there isn't a ton of "special tools" required either. This was dummy proof in comparison, and just as rewarding. 

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