Draker Posted January 1, 2020 Report Share Posted January 1, 2020 Check the throttle shafts for play. That’s usually the nail in the coffin for these. However a professional rebuild will fix that issue as well. 1 Quote Link to comment
slowlearner Posted January 2, 2020 Author Report Share Posted January 2, 2020 Hoping they won't need that. I'm trying not to throw too much cash at them. 😉 Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted January 2, 2020 Report Share Posted January 2, 2020 down draft weber is cheaper to maintain ezer to trouble shoot. One has to know SUs and make him your best friend before he knows that you have SUs otherwise he knows you just using him!!!!! Quote Link to comment
slowlearner Posted January 3, 2020 Author Report Share Posted January 3, 2020 14 hours ago, banzai510(hainz) said: down draft weber is cheaper to maintain ezer to trouble shoot. One has to know SUs and make him your best friend before he knows that you have SUs otherwise he knows you just using him!!!!! My Datsun guru tells me they're just not that hard... and he loves them. So we'll see I guess. In other news, I figured out how to pull the horn rim off the factory wheel today so I could test fit the scabby old Momo wheel I found at the import wreckers. Good news! The old boss it came with fits perfectly onto the stock column! Yay! Which is sort of a miracle because I have NO IDEA what it came off. In other news, I did a bit of research into the wheel. It's a Gritti. Apparently, this is something kinda special. They came out on high end cars such as Ferraris and the like. Mine has led a hard life and has a few splits. But that's ok, because it's going to get fixed with superglue and left in all it's patina-ed glory. I am missing a horn button for it though, so I reckon I might be cheeky and find a Ferrari badge or similar. 🤪 Quote Link to comment
slowlearner Posted January 9, 2020 Author Report Share Posted January 9, 2020 So, again. Not exactly car progress, but workshop progress... It now has power points, lights and vices, so I guess I don't have many excuses. In other news, my daughter's bestie came around today and her dad is a datto freak. We got talking the other day and today he brought his 71' 510 around to show me. It's like slightly younger, better looking twin of mine! L18, twin SUs, dogleg 5 speed. Only it has lovely paint, no rust and looks really sweet. David actually let me drive it around the block! Interesting getting into an old, slow car after driving a 98 WRX and a turbo diesel golf. He lamented that his car doesn't really have enough power and needs webers. Apparently they're coming. The car used to belong to a client/friend of his. The guy couldn't pay his bill so paid him with the 510 and a motorbike. And if it breaks down, the previous owner fixes it! What a deal eh? So I guess that's a poke in the ribs for me to get on with it. Right? Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted January 9, 2020 Report Share Posted January 9, 2020 people will love the 510 more than the WRX even if its SLOW Quote Link to comment
slowlearner Posted February 3, 2020 Author Report Share Posted February 3, 2020 Been working on Nana again. Pulling the trans out, I was picking away at the floor as I went, checking things. So, yeah. I guess I should have seen this coming with the rust hole under the fuse box. Water has been soaking the insulation under the carpet and just sitting on top of the floor sodden. I'm thinking the whole floor panel will need to be cut out and replaced. Not a huge hassle, but not what I was expecting. Spot-weld drills at the ready I guess. Sigh... Quote Link to comment
slowlearner Posted February 17, 2020 Author Report Share Posted February 17, 2020 This power-suck is finally out of the car... It'll be picked up by some guy who likes an auto in their 610. Apparently he has a bad knee. The other thing I managed to do with the help of a friend the other day was pull the carpet up in the front of the car. Hmmm... Surprisingly, the only hole or really thin metal was where I found the bubble under the car. Everything else seems ok. So, this the plan of attack. Cut the hole and thin metal around it level with the chassis rail and the gearbox mount plates and attempt to get in a new patch there. I know some people will say, "Cut the whole floor panel out and replace it all!". Here's the thing though. I attacked the floor with a screwdriver to see where it was really thin. The hole is the only place. So hopefully there's enough steel there to tack welds onto. I also need to patch in a some new metal under the accelerator pedal. There were a number of pinholes there where moisture got trapped under the pedal base. And yes, I'm procrastinating... We also pulled the flexplate off the back of the motor. No small feat. I've got a stock flywheel to go on this motor freshly skimmed for the clutch. Just a question about flywheel bolts. Should I use Loctite on them? Also, how tight should they be? And is there a trick to replacing the rear main seal on an L18? I've never done one before. Quote Link to comment
slowlearner Posted February 17, 2020 Author Report Share Posted February 17, 2020 See that nasty rusty thing up the top... This is what it looks like now. My machinist friend told me he needed to take 10 thou off it. It's still a little pitted but more than usable. Here's my new horn button... coz if you can be anyone, be Batman. Right? Thought you might like to see this. The previous owners put this panel onto the tunnel to fit the shifter for the auto. A bit weird. Came across this setup the other day. I'd like to add this to my car at some stage. Apparently it's Ebay motorbike lights. Has anyone done this with car? Any tips would be appreciated. Quote Link to comment
slowlearner Posted February 19, 2020 Author Report Share Posted February 19, 2020 Enough procrastination, I did this today... Dropped the oil, changed the filter, annealed the plug washer. Then I got wire brush on my drill and scraping with a few files. So I guess the next trick is some rust repairs before I try and put the trans in again. I'll start with something small and go from there. Quote Link to comment
slowlearner Posted February 20, 2020 Author Report Share Posted February 20, 2020 (edited) Despite spending the morning at a medical appointment with my daughter, I got quite a few things done this afternoon. Rear main seal is back in and ready to go. I was al ready to put the flywheel on when I realized something was probably missing. No spicket bearing. So if one of you nerds wants to tell me what size/code I need that would be great. Having established there was no future in that, I started on the rust repairs. I won't say I wasn't stressing about it, but really this is minor surgery compared to what I've seen on this forum. @Noll, you're my hero. By the end of it, I had these holes in the car. The second of them is the end of the frame rail. I couldn't believe how much easier it was to cut thin sheet metal. Maybe this won't be so hard after all. Rooting around in my parts, I found my 0.6mm wire and MIG tips. I was pretty excited to find them. Maybe I'll keep the pigeon poop and blowing holes to a minimum. Fingers crossed. I also found this while I was taking a few pics tonight. Obviously a previous owner to a bit of 'light massaging' to help installing the auto. Edited February 20, 2020 by slowlearner Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted February 20, 2020 Report Share Posted February 20, 2020 (edited) you get a Roadster clutch(daiken NSC581 is close) or a stock daiken 510 as there is a big difference????? 350kg anf this 581 is 600kg a Nissan Roadster part is 650kg Edited February 20, 2020 by banzai510(hainz) Quote Link to comment
slowlearner Posted February 20, 2020 Author Report Share Posted February 20, 2020 7 hours ago, banzai510(hainz) said: you get a Roadster clutch(daiken NSC581 is close) or a stock daiken 510 as there is a big difference????? 350kg anf this 581 is 600kg a Nissan Roadster part is 650kg I've got a sports 2000 clutch kit, which is the roadster I think. Quote Link to comment
slowlearner Posted February 23, 2020 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2020 I'll let the pictures do the talking... This one went quite well. The next one not so much... I'd almost finished this patch when I realized there was another hole and getting the new metal in would require cutting quite a lot out to prevent blow throughs. So I started making up the patch panel. For now its covered in weld through primer til I can get back to it. I won't win any awards, but it's definitely better than the terrible stuff it replaced. I also went out to SW Motorsport yesterday. In his normal quite way, Stewart fixed me completely with a new gearbox mount and crossmember. The guy is a legend. Quote Link to comment
thisismatt Posted February 23, 2020 Report Share Posted February 23, 2020 (edited) You could try backing your weld with some copper. Flatten some copper pipe, or get some copper bar. Or you can even buy a "welding spoon"... https://search.eastwood.com/search?ts=custom&w=welding copper Edited February 23, 2020 by thisismatt 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted February 23, 2020 Report Share Posted February 23, 2020 On 2/16/2020 at 11:35 PM, slowlearner said: This power-suck is finally out of the car... It'll be picked up by some guy who likes an auto in their 610. Apparently he has a bad knee. We also pulled the flexplate off the back of the motor. No small feat. I've got a stock flywheel to go on this motor freshly skimmed for the clutch. Just a question about flywheel bolts. Should I use Loctite on them? Also, how tight should they be? And is there a trick to replacing the rear main seal on an L18? I've never done one before. The later 610 uses a later 3N71B that is 31.5" long same as the 610 4 or 5 speed. This Borg Warner 35 auto will work but the driveshaft will need to be lengthened or a longer one shortened. I like cars that came with automatics. They didn't get abused anywhere near what a standard does because it's bard to drive the shit out of them. Good candidates for 5 speed swaps. Use standard not automatic flywheel bolts.... different length. Tighten to 100-115 ft lbs they won't need locktite. Turn some wood screws into the old seal and use to pull the old one out. Oil the inner seal lips (so they don't fold over, tear or start up dry) and the outer side and firmly seat into engine block around crankshaft. Mechanics use a special seal installation tool that fits over the crankshaft , a large enough piece of pipe would work. 1 Quote Link to comment
slowlearner Posted February 23, 2020 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2020 @datzenmike, can you tell me what length the automatic flywheel bolts are? I've got some bolts but I don't know what they're off. Also the motor already has a brass bush in it, so it must have been in front of a manual at some point. And yes, I'll gonna try and find some copper pipe. 🙂 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted February 24, 2020 Report Share Posted February 24, 2020 Someone will have to measure a set an tell you. I know they are different length. I'm guessing auto bolts are shorter. Always replace the pilot bushing, they are cheap ($4) and easy to do with the pressure plate off. Split them lengthwise in 3 places using a flat bladed screwdriver and hammer and pry out the pieces. They are powdered bronze pressed into shape and heated to fuse together. They are porous and oil soaked so don't lube them. Tap lightly into place with a hammer and block of wood. 1 Quote Link to comment
slowlearner Posted February 25, 2020 Author Report Share Posted February 25, 2020 Welcome to Australia where a $US4 bush costs... wait for it. $13 (without delivery). Hmmm....🙁 Quote Link to comment
slowlearner Posted February 26, 2020 Author Report Share Posted February 26, 2020 Ok, so I'll quit my whining. Picked up the bush today... cost $5.50 😊 Quote Link to comment
Noll Posted February 27, 2020 Report Share Posted February 27, 2020 (edited) I'm a bit late on the reply, but oh well. Looking good for a first go at the thin welding! As you've found, the key is to have good solid metal to weld to; you can have the best skills and equipment in the world and you'll still blow holes if the metal is paper-thin from rust. Often, that means cutting out way more than you'd like to to get to a solid base. As thisismatt said, a welding spoon or copper bar does help a lot in areas where welding thinner stuff is unavoidable 🙂 . I use some cheap ebay copper bar because I'm broke, it's cheap, and I can bend it to fit behind panels. Edited February 27, 2020 by Noll 1 Quote Link to comment
slowlearner Posted February 27, 2020 Author Report Share Posted February 27, 2020 Been hard at work again today. Got these things done. You can see my $2 welding spoon. Worked a treat. The datsun metal is not amazing, but yeah. Thicker metal is definitely funner. All the welds will get bondo-ed with seam sealer so they'll look a bit smoother when painted. 1 Quote Link to comment
slowlearner Posted February 29, 2020 Author Report Share Posted February 29, 2020 Trying to sort out the correct colour for my car... Thoughts? Quote Link to comment
slowlearner Posted March 2, 2020 Author Report Share Posted March 2, 2020 Nope, this isn't right... Ideas on what colour it might be? It's more yellow than Alaskan white. Quote Link to comment
slowlearner Posted March 4, 2020 Author Report Share Posted March 4, 2020 Nanna day again. Got a buddy coming around to help again which is really cool. Ready to throw time and parts at the problem again (read; "more money") 😄 Still trying to find out the paint colour. Thoughts anyone? Quote Link to comment
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