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Nana Spec 69' 510


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Back out in the shed for a short while this afternoon. Got the driver side brake drum done so both are ready for bleeding now. Yay! 😃

 

 

Have to say, I don't understand that whole ridiculous 'lock plate' system. Why couldn't they just have a double acting slave like everyone else. It would have more than halved my install time. Groan. Anyway, that's done now. So hopefully I won't have to rebuilt it any time soon. 

 

Having done that, I was all ready to install the front calipers when I discovered something...

 

 
No caliper bolts... 😖
 
I really don't understand what happened to them. I suspect I handed them over, attached to the struts when I swapped them. Worse than that, the 510 bolts were too short and three different stores couldn't help me. Datsun has to spec the nuts M12x1.25, the rarest thread in the world. This all happened at 4:45pm of course. So yeah, you could say I was more than a little grumpy. The car is SOOO close to moving under it's own power. 😞   

 

 

Edited by slowlearner
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I wish I had more to report today, but werl… I spent most of the day with my wife and daughter going to and from a 15min medical appointment. In retrospect, I think my wife wishes she'd left me at home. I'm philosophical. My daughter has had a major eye infection the last two weeks and seeing the specialist was really a privilege. Three hours of traffic and an hour waiting not so much. 

 

Anyhow, I managed to get some calliper bolts off my Datsun guru on Sunday. Went to put them on today and of course, they were too long. I destroyed my last hacksaw blade shortening the first one. So a trip to the hardware store was needed before anything else was done. Having got them all the right length and beginning installation, I found a major issue. The bottom of the calliper was fouling on the three of the tie rod end. After scratching my head for a while I realized why.

 

 

They were on the wrong side. I guess this is another 'I'm new to datsuns' moment. Anyway, after playing musical struts, I had everything back in. I gotta say, I much prefer this to the VW front end. 🙂

 

Of course that wasn't the end of it. Seems I have other things to learn. i was trying to bleed to system and the master cylinder wasn't playing ball. The front circuit would bleed, but not the rear. Apparently I should have 'bench' bled it (but I don't believe in that). So I need to get that sorted before I can FINALLY DRIVE THE DAMN THING OUT OF THE GARAGE! 🤬

 

Anyway, that's enough temper tantrums from me. Old fool that I am.

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Managed to steal an hour two last night and this morning to work on Nana. The master cylinder bled up ok last night and then the rest of the bleed went without issue... or so I thought. So this morning I moved everything out of the way and tried to start the car. Obviously the car had other plans. Didn't want to start, then once it was warm, it didn't want to idle. I did manage this though...

 

 

Straight away, two leaks became obvious.

1. Water pump, which I already knew about.

2. Both front calipers. Which should have been obvious because the pedal was rubbish.

 

The hand (park) brake also wasn't at it's best. So here was me trying to drive a car that wouldn't run, wouldn't stop... you get the point. The plan was to drive it out onto the road and then turn it around for a quick wash and get ready for putting the race motor in. Hmm, not today. Having looked at my other callipers, I now realize I should have had copper washer between the soft line and caliper. Stupid, old man, again. Hopefully I can duck out to the parts shop after a memorial service I'm conducting this afternoon. Fun time! 😞

 

 

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A bit of an update. Having got the car out of the garage last week, I've had constant issues with brake fluid leaking from the front callipers. I was having to hang off the spanner to get them anywhere near sealing and even then they were seeping fluid every time I pumped the pedal. I tried all manner of fixes. None worked. In the end, I called the brake shop that reconditioned them. They put me through to the tech who rebuilt them, but the basic story was this. They didn't re-seat/machine the sealing surfaces where the bleeder nipples seal. Nor did they pressure test the callipers after the rebuild. 😡

 

Sure, the callipers were in rough condition. Both bleeder nipples were hard to get out. Apparently one was broken (although I didn't notice that when I dropped them off) and the other was super stiff. The point is, cleaning up the sealing the surface and testing them is basic and he just didn't do it. Really not impressed. The tech described his mistake as, 'a bad learning curve'. He didn't actually apologize either. He was obviously embarrassed and I wonder if his boss made him call me back and admit it. 

 

The good new is the callipers are back in the shop being fixed properly this time, at no extra cost to me (already spent $200 on them). The bad news is, the car is up on jack stands again waiting for someone to do their job properly. ☹️

 

I'm also having issues with the carb. For some reason, it's not starting (without starting fluid). Then it doesn't want to idle once warmed up. I guess there's still junk there somewhere. Did I tell you how much I hate carbs? 

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Another update. I managed to get the car out yesterday and drive it down the driveway. It died at the bottom and refused to restart until I put some more fuel in it. Weird.

 

Anyway, I have managed to do a few things.

1. Turned it around and got it nose first into the garage.

2. Hosed all the dirt (lots and lots) off the underside and the engine bay.

3. Get the idle right.

4. Adjust the back brakes up, although I think they could do with more.

5. Drain the radiator (eww), flush it and refill it.

 

Unfortunately, I've also ascertained the brake booster is cactus. I'm hoping I can get it out and replace/rebuild it without pulling the whole brake system apart and needing to bleed it again.

 

I'm kinda caught now. I could pull it apart and throw the new motor in. I'm not sure. I have to move in two months and ideally I want to be able to drive it to the new house. Not sure what to do. I guess I'll do what I do best. Procrastinate more.

Edited by slowlearner
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  • 2 weeks later...

Another update, as I mentioned the car hasn't been running right. Now I know why. My neighbor and race boat guru, Tony diagnosed the carburettor as the problem. Its a stock Hitachi that came on the L18 in the 180B/610. It has two issues.

 

1. The idle circuit is not working at all. The idle mixture screw makes no real difference to the car. We pulled it out and sprayed carb cleaner in there and it made no difference. It's only running on the mains circuit. 

 

2. It's running PIG RICH. Like, you have to choke the carb with your hand to get it to start. 

 

Tony thinks the main emulsion tube may have an issue too. I cleaned it out when I did some work on the carb before, but it doesn't seem to be helping. I really need a proper diagram of the carb, but I don't want to buy a whole 610 service manual just to get it. Can someone send me a link?

 

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After a week of filling this thing with carb cleaner, I put it back on and same old same old. Wouldn't run. So I gave up.

 

 

I pulled the crusty carb off the other manifold I had and went through it a little. Having swapped a few bits of linkage and blocked off the return line, it kicked over instantly. My neighbour came up and helped me tune it. I still don't love them. Then I gave it a little test drive on a closed road course (or close enough). It still wants to die when you put it in gear, but it drives ok. The auto wouldn't pull the skin off a rice pudding. The brakes also feel a little deep in the pedal when you've driven for a while, but it stops ok. So maybe I'll bleed them again.

 

I also pulled the wiper motor out today and called an auto electrician. Apparently they're impossible to get refurbed... or super exy. He suggested I try and pull the motor apart and give it a clean. It looked really clean, but it's still not working. So, on the advice of many forums I'll probably convert it over to a S13 Sylvia. The auto electrician says he knows their wiring off by heart. Apparently they're a bolt in too. So, I guess that's good. Right?

 

In other news, we're moving on the 19th of December. I have some options...

1. Swap the worked motor and 5 speed into the car... and risk being able to drive it to the new house easily.

2. Leave it alone and get it converted once we've moved.

I told my wife I've chosen the second option today. I'll do work to try and get registration issues ticked off and done in the mean time. Tie rod ends. Wipers. Heater. Which brings me to the next thing. How difficult is it to replace a heater fan?  

Edited by slowlearner
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  • 3 weeks later...

Was totally in the throws of chasing an S13 wiper motor for the car when I realized... totally doesn't fit. I was looking for other options when I walked past the car and noticed (as I had done when I first inspected it) that wiring had been chewed by rats. LOL 🙂

 

So, having fixed that today, my stock wiper motors works like a champ! YAY!

 

Still chasing some air leaks with the car.

 

BTW, does anyone know where the windscreen washer button is on a 69' 510?

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On 11/4/2019 at 2:51 AM, hobospyder said:

Twist the knob pull knob? At least that's how it is with my 620s

 

Thanks man. I'll give that a try. I'm currently waiting for a new washer motor/pump. Poor old one was seized and nasty.

 

In other news...

 

 

I guess this just another one of those 'lucky' situations. Only I don't believe in luck. So basically, the top coolent outlet on the motor was pretty corroded and I decided to swap it while I was there. Sure enough, the thermostat was nowhere to be seen. I am a little concerned about this. I hope it doesn't mean there's a head gasket issue or something. I've tested the thermostat from the other motor and it works well, so it'll go in once I can find a gasket. Yay.

 

In other news, the horn now works. Yay! I also put the door trim back together yesterday after filling the bottom of the door with INOX (penetrant). Lets hope that slows the rust a little.

 

My next plan is to pull the whole exhaust off and put the extractors/2nd hand 2" system I bought real cheap. I just need some rubber hangers and I'm good to go. Can't wait to weld it back together... Not. Pigeons at the ready! 

 

giphy.gif

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
On 11/14/2019 at 11:58 AM, hobospyder said:

Well that's good. I'm guessing that means my twist the pull knob knob was a good suggestion? 

 

It was. Thanks mate. 🙂 

 

I thought I should do some sort of update. I've had a bit going on, but it doesn't feel like a lot of progress. Still, keeping at it. We move in 3 and 1/2 weeks and I need to drive the car to the new house. I got the extractors on the car today...

 

QssbHu7.jpg

 

Only to find out this...

 

luJOSVM.jpg

 

A whole foot of piping is missing from it. Seems like my cheap exhaust system isn't going to be as cheap as I thought. I had this slip joint fitted to it. 

 

dITe4ZY.jpg

 

Now I'll need an extra bit too. In other news, I pulled the heater box out the other day. Found this on the side of it...

 

EyJG93i.jpg

 

Suffice to say, it wasn't in great condition. 

 

 

No surprise, everything in the circuit was clogged with rusty mud. I found a new heater tap here. 

 

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/HEATER-TAP-SUIT-FORD-FALCON-FAIRMONT-FAIRLANE-XW-XY-GT-GS-ZC-ZD-351-302-393/261297780876?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649

 

It's the wrong orientation, but it's otherwise identical. I think I can make it work. 

 

cb7425d.jpg

 

The other good thing to come out of pulling the heater out... if there's anything good about pulling a heater box out... was the fan works really well. This is great news, because the 69' box is substantially different from the later units. I will need to sort out whether the wiring is dodgy. Either way, I can jerry-rig it so the demister works. So that will allow me to get the car inspected successfully. Yay!

 

Edited by slowlearner
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Finally managed to climb under the car and get this done yesterday...

 

 

Of course it involved rearranging half the garage. Not the best welding I've ever done and there were other complications too. Once the manual trans is in and I've got it registered, I'll be taking the car to the exhaust shop to have it sorted properly I think. Sounds kinda loud with the whole exhaust finished, but not nearly as loud as the open headers. LOL.

 

On another note, we're moving in three weeks. Yikes! So to pack/throw/rearrange everything once more. I can't wait. 😞  The good news being I'm getting a double garage once more. 😄 

 

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  • 3 weeks later...

This picture is a story in itself...

 

 

We've spent the last three days moving to a new house. The house is better, the garage is bigger. But man, what hard work. I literally worked from 7am-10pm with very short breaks to eat or drink water. If you don't know how much junk you have, try moving. You'll find out! The good news is I was able to drive Nana the 2 miles from the old house to the new house. Once I got off the main road, I literally rolled down 1 mile of hill and I was almost there.

 

Gotta say though, she doesn't drive all that well. The auto sucks all the power. The tyres are so old, hard and out of round. The alternator (or regulator) isn't working and it had a go at draining the battery. But, it didn't overheat. It didn't die at the lights. I didn't run into anyone. So I'm thankful. Also, I got all the heater box and controls are reconnected... werl, mostly. The car is now completely surrounded with boxes of junk, so I need to sort that out and build a workbench, but I'm pretty happy.

 

A few weeks after Christmas, I've got a week at home and I'll be fighting hard to get her close to rego inspection. The manual will go in and a few other things. So hopefully, it'll be a daily really soon!

 

Merry Christmas everyone! 

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Spending money on parts is the same thing as working on the car. Right? Werl, close enough anyway...

 

 

Got these tonight. I could have got them cheaper without the original airbox, but I think it's worth it down the track when everyone wants a set for their period L series. Factory 180B (610) SSS twin SUs (Hitachis) and airbox with all the linkages. The plan is to put these on the car for rego, because lets face the ugly truth. They couldn't be any worse than the downdraft I have on it at the mo. Here's hoping they don't need a complete rebuild. I'm gonna pull the jets and give em a clean, then bung em on and see how they go!

 

Edited by slowlearner
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