Jump to content
slowlearner

Nana Spec 69' 510

Recommended Posts

Make sure you use the bearing collar or housing that was on the 63A. It's mated to the clutch you have on there. If there's one on the 71B it could be for a different clutch and give you problems.

Share this post


Link to post

Spent 13 hours on Nana today. Gearbox went in, then out, hole drilled out, then trans back in again. I always learn the hard way.

 

 

It works and shifts well. I like the shorter gearstick better too. Doesn't hit my knee so much.

 

My other job was pulling out the oil pan and resealing it. What a nightmare. Took me hours and numerous tricks to remove it. The good news was it has a good factory baffle in it. Also, the bottom end looked tidy and clean, which is great.

 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post

Use NGK plugs, what the factory supplied your Datsun with.

Share this post


Link to post

Found yourself a gearbox I see! Nice. 
they’re pretty sloppy in the shifter. Make sure you replace the shifter bushings and nylon cup on the end if they’re worn. 
I actually made a short throw shifter when I had one of these boxes in my car. You have to make the end that goes into the gearbox longer, makes the shifter feel 100x better. I also think maddat sell a short throw shifter for these boxes. 
I ended up putting a 71c box in mine, basically the same as a 71b box I think, it just has the nicer shifter mechanism used in sr and cr boxes. 

Share this post


Link to post

 

Have extra shifters so cut 1/2" off of one and welded it onto mine.

 

iTEguZR.jpg

2QWi1nj.jpg

 

Drill new holes 1/2" higher...

 

fwlp9iB.jpg

 

It was a big change but now I'm used to it and don't notice it at all. Had to learn new foot/hand co-ordination. Sideways through the neutral gate is the same

 

gkRL5RG.jpg

 

The 71C is about twice as strong as the 71B. Larger counter bearing, larger diameter 1st/2nd shift rod, larger shift forks, much better synchros and gears made wider for strength.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post

Thanks guys. The 71b is MUCH nicer to use than the 63a. I don't think I'm going to mess around with short shifts. 2nd gear is a little crunchy, but it's more than usable.

 

I've been dailying it again today. Running the kids to school and pottering to work. I managed to advance the timing and bring the idle down. It starts first time without touching the throttle too.

 

However, I think the SUs make it a bit thirsty. I also think my oil pan is leaking again. I'll pay someone with a hoist to fix it next time.

Share this post


Link to post
13 hours ago, datzenmike said:

 

Have extra shifters so cut 1/2" off of one and welded it onto mine.

 

iTEguZR.jpg

2QWi1nj.jpg

 

Drill new holes 1/2" higher...

 

fwlp9iB.jpg

 

It was a big change but now I'm used to it and don't notice it at all. Had to learn new foot/hand co-ordination. Sideways through the neutral gate is the same

 

gkRL5RG.jpg

 

The 71C is about twice as strong as the 71B. Larger counter bearing, larger diameter 1st/2nd shift rod, larger shift forks, much better synchros and gears made wider for strength.

Yeah pretty much what I did aswell. Makes a huge difference 

Share this post


Link to post
11 hours ago, nad015 said:

Where abouts is your oil leak? Sump? Or is it rear main seal?

 

It was the sump last time for sure. It shouldn't be the rear main. I replaced that just recently.

Share this post


Link to post

Hope not the rear main. That wouldn’t be fun 

doing that with the engine in the car

 

Share this post


Link to post
19 hours ago, nad015 said:

Hope not the rear main. That wouldn’t be fun 

doing that with the engine in the car

 

 

Yeah, I really doubt it. It wasn't leaking with the old box in, or for that matter with the auto either. I made a point of replacing it before I went manual. It's also got sealant around the outside of it. 

 

Seriously entertaining starting on injection sooner rather than later. It would just be nice to have programmable ignition.

Edited by slowlearner

Share this post


Link to post

SUs are fun to drive hard and where your gas is going. Tuned right I think at least the same mileage. It shouldn't be disastrously bad or something isn't right.

Share this post


Link to post
2 hours ago, slowlearner said:

I found my oil leak! 🙂 It's the oil pressure sender. So that should be easy to fix. 

 

Remember BTS not SAE thread.  Adapters readily available, look in the aftermarket dash gauge section of your auto parts store.

Share this post


Link to post
6 hours ago, datzenmike said:

SUs are fun to drive hard and where your gas is going. Tuned right I think at least the same mileage. It shouldn't be disastrously bad or something isn't right.

 

Yeah I'm trying hard to moderate hard driving for fuel consumption. 😆😆

 

They don't really love idling either. Stewart Wilkins mentioned that issue to me too. They get hung up at 1500rpm or slowly drop right down to dying.

Share this post


Link to post

 If this was normal for all SUs they wouldn't have used them.

 

 

edl-4025_ml.jpg

You need an airflow meter to synchronize the two carburetors so they are both using the same amount of air and doing equal work. 

 

Are the dash pots filled? with the same oil

Share this post


Link to post
9 hours ago, datzenmike said:

 If this was normal for all SUs they wouldn't have used them.

 

 

edl-4025_ml.jpg

You need an airflow meter to synchronize the two carburetors so they are both using the same amount of air and doing equal work. 

 

Are the dash pots filled? with the same oil

 

How much oil should be in them? I can't seem to find where to measure that.

Share this post


Link to post

Been a big day today datto wise. Got the oil send cleaned up and resealed, put an accessory fan back in ready for summer, ran all new breather lines for the fuel tank. I discovered I put the fuel gauge sender in upside down last time I got it out. Oh well. Now half a tank means there's not much left.

 

 

Took my son out to collect something he'd bought and Nana got it's first go on the freeway. Cruises nicely at 60mph, although I think the speedo is reading a little fast (not a bad thing). It also wasn't darting around or too noisy which is really nice. There were however, a fuel misses at low throttle. Also, turning it off, it dieseled really bad and was running on quite a bit. Same at home afterwards. I think it's time to go to SW Motorsport and get it tuned properly.

 

Checking the oil sender, it's weeping so I'll definitely need a new one of those. I also found out the radiator is weeping down the bottom. The car isn't getting hot per se (according to the gauge), but I can't leave it like this. I guess it's another thing in a long list of 50yo parts showing their weaknesses. Found these 3 core rads on fleabay...

 

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/3-ROW-ALUMINUM-RADIATOR-For-Nissan-Datsun-1600-510-Petrol-1-6L-4cyl-L16-Manual/114388038008?hash=item1aa20ef178:g:fQoAAOSwzV5fTv9y

 

Was just wondering if anyone has had any experience with them? The price is right, but I don't want to have to replace it again with something proper. Thoughts?

 

 

Edited by slowlearner

Share this post


Link to post

You may never solve or completely get rid of 'run on' or 'dieseling'. Learn to hold the brake, place in 4th, let up the clutch to load the engine down and turn the ignition off. Engine will stall right away. Only when fully stopped, let the clutch up all the way. For an automatic, turn off in drive, then place in park. For or five times and it becomes smooth and automatic when stopping.

Share this post


Link to post

The good news. The car idles and doesn't run on anymore. 10deg BTDC on idle and works like a charm. 

 

The bad news. It stinks of petrol, this after replacing EVERY line around the fuel tank. Still trying to ascertain what the issues is and where the smell is coming from.

Also, there's a terrible exhaust leak, but it's getting that sorted tomorrow.

 

My new radiator also arrived yesterday, so I'm looking forward to installing that. Probably on Saturday. Yay, antifreeze. 

Share this post


Link to post

Look at the over flow tubes on your SUs, look below the tubes and see if anything is wet, SU floats can go bad and sink causing fuel to get dumped out the over flow tube, also check all the fuel lines in the engine compartment, maybe one is dripping.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
4 hours ago, wayno said:

Look at the over flow tubes on your SUs, look below the tubes and see if anything is wet, SU floats can go bad and sink causing fuel to get dumped out the over flow tube, also check all the fuel lines in the engine compartment, maybe one is dripping.

 

Yeah, it's the boot and interior that smell, not under the bonnet. Carbs are working quite well really.

Share this post


Link to post

SUs occasionally jam due  to gas tank crud making it through the fuel filter and jamming the float arm.  Just jiggle the wire protruding from the underside of the carb.  If this clears the over flow, you just saved yourself a whole lot of trouble at no cost.

Share this post


Link to post

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.