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CamoKing

Cam sprocket spells trouble

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RTV is a polarizing topic. Some people (Chevy owners) use it like Italians use olive oil. Others prefer it stay in the tube. I am of the opinion that it is a valuable tool in the toolbox.

 

Front cover gaskets, if they are the good OEM type, don't need any RTV, except at the top corners (inside and out), where just a dab does the trick. I do use Gasgacinch to help glue them in place, but it's arguable whether or not it does any actual sealing.  Nissan used similar glue on the engine assembly line.

 

Oil pan gaskets - I've pretty much stopped using them altogether. The Right Stuff black RTV is way better than any oil pan gasket. It can get messy if you use too much, as it will squish out the bolt holes and onto the bolt heads before they are completely tightened. Don't be shy with it though. Just plan ahead the spots you want to avoid.

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One of the biggest engine building mistakes I see is NOT using sealant where its needed.  Over-use will always exist, but I see this topic as being very similar to choosing suspension bushings.  The right material in the right place will produce the best results.  In our race engine I've used black RTV, Permatex #2, The Right Stuff, and a dab of red RTV.  I've got several other options in the toolbox ranging from copper spray to Hylomar as well.  A little research or a phone call to the manufacturer will let you know what the best options are for your scenario.  

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The right stuff is really good rtv great for making chevys not leak. The last few ive been using ultra gray or a very light application of the motorcycle grey case sealant for machined areas with good results. The gray seems to dry a little harder than the right stuff and is easier to scrape off.  Less is more seems to be the common theme but for the pan i just use a good 1/4 inch thick bead of rtv all the way around. Upon dissassembly there is a small bead on the inside but no rtv bukkakes to plug up the oil pickup.

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This is what I 'glue' transmission cases together with. It is thicker or firmer when set. The specs say to finger tighten then let sit for ten min before giving the final torque down. This is just enough time to wipe away the excess on the outside. Usually a few very fine beads push out on the final tightening. On that other shit just remember that what squeezes out.... also squeezes IN*.  

 

 

* Chevy owners just ignore this.

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Ford owners are just as bad as Chevy owners.  😉  Screw-ups are not brand specific.  All brand owners are susceptible to being hacks.  

 

The greatest engine builders are the ones who are intelligent enough to call gasket and sealant companies to ask questions.  All sealants are originally designed to solve a specific problem.  Hylomar, Permatex, and others have help lines where real engineers are paid to simply answer the phone and recommend which products will work best in your scenario.  

Hylomar LLC158 J J Lane
Center Point
Texas 78010
USATel: +1 830 634 2603

 

https://www.permatex.com/contact/product-support/

 

 

 

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The only sealant that I refuse to use is when red loctite is called for on an oil pan. Lots of European MFGs use red loctite only, not gasket, o-ring, RTV or any sealant of any kind. The loctite is supposed to bond the oil pan to the block. I think this is a lame idea and refuse to get on board.

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