Rust-n-Peace Posted June 3, 2019 Report Share Posted June 3, 2019 Living in the salt belt sucks. I removed the bed this weekend, went to drive it and she split in two. She’s only a woods truck, so it looks like it’s time to become a fabricator…. 1 1 Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted June 3, 2019 Report Share Posted June 3, 2019 Damn!!!!!!!!!!!! I wouldn't waist my time on this one. 1 Quote Link to comment
weldingrod Posted June 3, 2019 Report Share Posted June 3, 2019 Live on Vancouver Island, British Columbia, Canada and not many Nissan left here just because of that. Picked up an 84 4x4 and had to rebuild the frame from the rear of the driver's door to the back bumper. A friend of mine is doing a frame off restoration and his frame isn't bad but has a few spots I am fixing for him. Rear cross member is too light to hold the spare so it always needs replacing, and in the process of rusting out it also starts rust damage on the frame. Main thing is if it is going to be a parts truck, save EVERYTHING. Parts getting very hard to come by. Looking for a rear drive shaft for a 1984 4x4 right now. Hey, yours looks like an '84. How much to ship the rear drive shaft to the Great White North? 1 Quote Link to comment
Rust-n-Peace Posted June 3, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 3, 2019 11 minutes ago, banzai510(hainz) said: Damn!!!!!!!!!!!! I wouldn't waist my time on this one. Unfortunately, I will need it as a plow truck. I don't have the money for a running truck. I have a supply of metal, and a welder. Figure, what's the worst that could happen??? 4 minutes ago, weldingrod said: Hey, yours looks like an '84. How much to ship the rear drive shaft to the Great White North? I'm not ready to part her out yet, but if I do maybe we could work something out. 1 Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted June 3, 2019 Report Share Posted June 3, 2019 just seems when your going to weld a new piece in to the old you got to find a spot that isn't rusted already that you don't see . Soon as you put the welding rod to it it falls apart. but if you can do it go for it. But I wouldn't want to ride in it over 30mph 1 Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted June 3, 2019 Report Share Posted June 3, 2019 That truck is likely dead, that frame is likely wasted beyond help/un-repairable, I suspect the whole frame is the same, that was just where the most pressure was(in the middle), since the box was not there to hit the cab and stop it from bending any farther it buckled/snapped. They are starting to do that salt shit in Portland OR now. 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted June 3, 2019 Report Share Posted June 3, 2019 2 hours ago, Rust-n-Peace said: Unfortunately, I will need it as a plow truck. I don't have the money for a running truck. I have a supply of metal, and a welder. Figure, what's the worst that could happen??? I'm not ready to part her out yet, but if I do maybe we could work something out. 3 hours ago, Rust-n-Peace said: Living in the salt belt sucks. I removed the bed this weekend, went to drive it and she split in two. She’s only a woods truck, so it looks like it’s time to become a fabricator…. If it's a woods truck and plow vehicle I would go for it...... If you have never done it before do yourself a favor and over do it..... Jack it back up, line it up and find clean metal and brace the hell out of it...... If you do fix it give that drive shaft a check.... 1 Quote Link to comment
Rust-n-Peace Posted June 4, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 4, 2019 13 hours ago, Crashtd420 said: If it's a woods truck and plow vehicle I would go for it...... Yes, just a woods truck. Never gets out of first and 4-lo. 13 hours ago, Crashtd420 said: If you do fix it give that drive shaft a check.... What do you mean by that? 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted June 4, 2019 Report Share Posted June 4, 2019 Just make sure when the cab dropped it didnt bend the drive shaft..... its probably fine but worth looking at to make sure...... I suppose even if it was it would still work going slow...... 2 Quote Link to comment
Rust-n-Peace Posted June 4, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 4, 2019 1 minute ago, Crashtd420 said: Just make sure when the cab dropped it didnt bend the drive shaft..... its probably fine but worth looking at to make sure...... I suppose even if it was it would still work going slow...... ok, thanks. the cab never dropped as far as the driveshaft. 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted June 4, 2019 Report Share Posted June 4, 2019 1 hour ago, Rust-n-Peace said: ok, thanks. the cab never dropped as far as the driveshaft. That's good..... 1 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted June 5, 2019 Report Share Posted June 5, 2019 14 hours ago, Crashtd420 said: Just make sure when the cab dropped it didnt bend the drive shaft..... its probably fine but worth looking at to make sure...... I suppose even if it was it would still work going slow...... I was thinking the same thing. For a property truck, what have you got to lose? My 1979 Chevy K30 is the same. Clapped out front axle, steering box, transmission, transfer case, motor, front suspension... But it has a dump bed, so I drive the piss out of it doing chores around the property. Works for me!!! Go for it! Just post pics as you do to prove the nay-sayers wrong. 2 Quote Link to comment
thisismatt Posted June 5, 2019 Report Share Posted June 5, 2019 There might be a little rust on the Datsun But don't let it fool ya about what it's like There might be a little rust on the Datsun It's one of those things that gets cooler with time 3 Quote Link to comment
Rust-n-Peace Posted June 5, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 5, 2019 8 hours ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said: For a property truck, what have you got to lose? Exactly.... 2 Quote Link to comment
Rust-n-Peace Posted June 21, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 21, 2019 So, been slowly working on the frame repair (pics to follow). I took the rear frame rails from a postal Jeep and modified them to fit the 720. Will be spending some time with the Lincoln this weekend. Couple of questions. I found a large hole in the gas tank, so I will have to replace it with something. Being that this is a woods vehicle, will I need the return and vent lines? Also, the mice have made a nest in the headliner, how can I easily remove it? I don’t want to save it, nor do I want to make a mess. 2 Quote Link to comment
Rust-n-Peace Posted June 26, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 26, 2019 The Jeep Frame All welded in place, still need to add the cross members 4 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted June 26, 2019 Report Share Posted June 26, 2019 Nice job. Farm trucks don't need return lines, but a vent may be helpful. If you still have the charcoal canister, use it. If you want t delete it altogether, make sure your tank doesn't pressurize or you may get a facefull of fuel when removing the cap. 1 Quote Link to comment
Rust-n-Peace Posted June 26, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 26, 2019 27 minutes ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said: Nice job. Farm trucks don't need return lines, but a vent may be helpful. If you still have the charcoal canister, use it. If you want t delete it altogether, make sure your tank doesn't pressurize or you may get a facefull of fuel when removing the cap. Thanks 1 Quote Link to comment
bottomwatcher Posted June 27, 2019 Report Share Posted June 27, 2019 Datsun with a C channel frame! I am up in Maine in the summer and it is amazing the rust on these vehicles after coming from Florida. There is a 1992 hardbody with KA and 5 speed and 60k miles with a rotten frame. $300 hundred buys a low milage engine and trans, but the rest is useless! 2 Quote Link to comment
Rust-n-Peace Posted June 27, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 27, 2019 9 hours ago, bottomwatcher said: Datsun with a C channel frame! I am up in Maine in the summer and it is amazing the rust on these vehicles after coming from Florida. There is a 1992 hardbody with KA and 5 speed and 60k miles with a rotten frame. $300 hundred buys a low mileage engine and trans, but the rest is useless! Funny, the body isn't that bad, but my frame is junk. I paid $250 for mine, with a plow. 2 Quote Link to comment
Crytek89 Posted July 1, 2019 Report Share Posted July 1, 2019 On 6/3/2019 at 12:54 PM, weldingrod said: Hey, yours looks like an '84. How much to ship the rear drive shaft to the Great White North? I have an '83 in Nanaimo if you wanna save some shipping. 1 Quote Link to comment
millican Posted July 7, 2019 Report Share Posted July 7, 2019 The body looks pretty good though. Unlike mine. I can see the exhaust under my foot. I get wet driving in the rain with the windows up. There is nothing holding the right side of the bench seat up. I tell my wife, "No passengers" when she uses it for work. Now I think I should check a few more places underneath. 2 Quote Link to comment
Angeldust720 Posted July 9, 2019 Report Share Posted July 9, 2019 Dang! Nice fab work, you need a lot of skill in order to weld a frame and keep it together. 1 Quote Link to comment
Rust-n-Peace Posted July 10, 2019 Author Report Share Posted July 10, 2019 15 hours ago, Angeldust720 said: Dang! Nice fab work, you need a lot of skill in order to weld a frame and keep it together. Thanks, I really have no clue what I am doing, but it's been fun. 4 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted July 11, 2019 Report Share Posted July 11, 2019 And what a perfect way to learn - on a farm truck. 2 Quote Link to comment
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