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TomServo

The Good Trade Build Thread: '85 720 4x4

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Get another vehicle and use booster cables. Clamp the ground to the transmission near the starter and the positive to the starter lug. It will likely start no problem. Your ground on the intake is bad or one of the battery cables are bad. Jumping will prove this.

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30 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

Get another vehicle and use booster cables. Clamp the ground to the transmission near the starter and the positive to the starter lug. It will likely start no problem. Your ground on the intake is bad or one of the battery cables are bad. Jumping will prove this.

 

Tried this with no change. I thought for sure it would help too.  

 

And no, thankfully the plugs weren't smashed haha! 

 

I'll keep poking at it, I feel like the answer is so simple I'm just missing it. 

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It started once, so we know it isn't seized and the starter works and likely the battery is ok.

 

 

So you can turn it by hand.

The starter was changed.

The battery was changed.

 

Not boost it with cables, connect directly to the starter and ground to the transmission it's bolted to. This would eliminate your battery, the cables and their connections. Has to be the cables or the other battery.

 

 

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If it was a snake it would have bit me! Feel like a doofus for not solving it sooner but whatever. 

 

Previously, I had been attempting to jump the starter always with the key in the on position.  

 

This time, with the key out and the ignition wire unplugged from the starter, I jumped the power directly from the battery and bingo, it turns over! Performed the same test with the key turned to start and the starter does nothing.

 

So, clearly something with ignition wiring. Got too dark out to explore further but I should be able to track it down now that I know where the issue is.

 

Gosh darn, thanks for all the help everyone. I'll report back once I have it running correctly! 

Edited by TomServo
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So, now that the truck is running I have discovered new problems. First, the oil pressure seems way too high. It's idling around 60psi and bounces up to 90 when driving down the street. This is accompanied by a terrible knocking sound like things aren't getting oiled. Guh . . . nothing good about it. Any ideas where I should start?   

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Solved! (I think . . ) Posting this for anyone having a similar issue: timing was way off, like 30 degrees btdc. I rotated the distributor counter clockwise to the limit and the knocking noise subsided, but it was still at like 20 degrees.

 

Next, I set to tdc and took out the distributor. The oil pump/distributor drive spindle was at the correct* 11:25 position. However, I read other people had the same issue and solved it by setting the spindle to the 12:30 position. I am now easily able to set the timing to the spec 3 degrees btdc. The knock is pretty much eliminated, and the oil pressure is reading in the normal range (not sure how those two are related). 

 

Point is, everything I read told me to set the spindle to 11:25 but there was no way to get the timing correct.

 

*12:30 with the small lobe forward worked, at least for me.   

Edited by TomServo
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That spindle drives both the distributor and the oil pump but the clocking of the spindle should have no effect on pressure.

 

Oil pressure is governed by the pressure relief valve and spring on the pump's side. Idle cold can be 50-65 as the oil is thicker and the idle faster till warmed up. Hot idle (650-750 RPM) can be anything below 40 but should jump quickly as you rev up. Now that said, I had a piece of aluminum casting jam the relief piston so it couldn't retract and by pass the oil to limit the pressure. Around town the revs weren't high enough to matter much but two days running I blew the oil filter on the highway on my 521 (no gauge). Just enough oil to get into the parking lot. Thought it was a bad filter but after two I thought about it and it had to be the relief valve. You may have experienced something similar that cleared itself when you took the pump out to clock the spindle.

 

 

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4 hours ago, TomServo said:

 

Point is, everything I read told me to set the spindle to 11:25 but there was no way to get the timing correct.

 

*12:30 with the small lobe forward worked, at least for me.   

 

Its possible you dont have the correct distributor to go with the pedestal....

 

While any combo will make the engine run you might not have enough room to adjust... 

 

What you did is correct.....

As long as you have the engine at tdc and the rotor pointing to the #1 spark plug wire with room to adjust that's all that matters....

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Well, it's done I guess, needs some small things and new tires but it runs and drives without blowing up. How bout an after shot, Nissan calls the color Thunder Black so I'm naming it Black Thunder!

 3660811468c5e24fe80980ee37024fb832f4d5574a1a532222092df031d1265eae59cece.jpg

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