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TomServo

The Good Trade Build Thread: '85 720 4x4

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Thanks Wayno! Got the oil pump/distributor drive gear off, the oil slinger chipped the splines all the way around. Thankfully, most of the chipped metal was held in place, but still some probably escaped into the oil. Not sure this one will work so I decided to buy a replacement off ebay just to be safe.

 

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16 hours ago, wayno said:

Put the front cover on before the head.

I put the heads on first, always. This way you can check the timing chain geometry is correct. Don't torque the head until the front cover is on.

 

Basically, use some gascacinch to hold the timing cover gaskets to the block, with a little dab of grey silicone up in the corners where the cover meets the head. Put a dab behind the gasket and one in front of the gasket. Shimmy the cover on under the head. Bolt it up then torque the head down.

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1 hour ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

I put the heads on first, always. This way you can check the timing chain geometry is correct. Don't torque the head until the front cover is on.

 

Basically, use some gascacinch to hold the timing cover gaskets to the block, with a little dab of grey silicone up in the corners where the cover meets the head. Put a dab behind the gasket and one in front of the gasket. Shimmy the cover on under the head. Bolt it up then torque the head down.

Perfect, thanks! The more I thought about it I realized a combo like this makes the most sense: instal head no torque then timing cover. Thanks again! 

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22 hours ago, TomServo said:

A couple quick questions that have come up in my head before even starting:

 

Since the rocker arm assembly is attached to the head, should I (is it even possible to) set the lash prior to installing it on the block? I noticed the open valves extend past the surface of the head. Maybe that's normal. 

 

Also, should I install the head or timing cover first? It seems easier to install the timing chain with the head on but then I worry about the head shim and gasket when installing the cover. Any recommendations? 

 

 

Try to avoid setting the head on a hard surface with the valves down. Some will be open and could be bent from this.

 

Set the valve lash to 0.012" but you MUST check this setting when the engine is thoroughly warmed up as heat will change this.

 

 

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On 6/1/2019 at 12:19 PM, datzenmike said:

 

 

Try to avoid setting the head on a hard surface with the valves down. Some will be open and could be bent from this.

 

Set the valve lash to 0.012" but you MUST check this setting when the engine is thoroughly warmed up as heat will change this.

 

 

 

Thank you! 

 

To elaborate on this, when I got the head from the machine shop all the valves were left loose and I was concerned about installing it on the block that way.

 

Because the the cam is bolted directly to the head, it is possible to preset the valve clearance. Using a block of wood under each end of the head (to allow for valve clearance) the valves can be cold set to .021" on the intake side and .024" on the exhaust side. Of course, they need to be readjusted when the head is installed and warm, but I think this will provide a better baseline for installation. 

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Does anyone know the orientation of the oil pump/distributor drive gear? One side has a chamfer while the other is flat, and I don't trust that the original one was oriented correctly. 

 

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Lowering the oil pan helps getting the front cover on hopefull w/o ripping the oil pan gasket. Or one can slice out the gasket buy a new gasket cut that section out from the new one , RTV the corners and slip it up and tighten the pan and hopefully your good.

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Ok, need more advice time: 

 

I got the pump installed and I think the spindle is oriented correctly at 11:25 with the small side facing the front. 

 

I'm less sure about the orientation of the distributor. I took off the cap but I'm not familiar with this type of rotor. Is it 180 degrees off? Do I even have the distributor oriented correctly?

 

I tried asking my helper here but we couldn't find it in any of her books.

 

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Looks like the fat side of the tab is pointed to the back, which is what you want. Now we're the wires in the right order before you started? Who knows. I say just put the dizzy on and make sure the wires are in the correct order. Then you should be good to go.

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Pretty clean interior in that truck. Your daughter seems to enjoy it already.

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Was a day of successes and failures: I finally got everything back together, but it wouldn't turn over. Like dead. So, I replaced the battery with another known good one. Could hear the starter really struggling to turn over, but couldn't. So, I replaced the starter. Still nothing! All I hear is the starter trying really hard but can't even turn over once. I took all the grounds off and cleaned them. No change. Any suggestions where to go next?

 

Btw, in all the tries it did magically start just once, like randomly and suddenly, and it ran great! But when I turned it off I couldn't get it to start again. Just nothing! 

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2 minutes ago, thisismatt said:

Did you try to turn it over by hand?

Yes, was able to turn over with a wrench like normal.  

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Tried jumping the solenoid directly at the starter?

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I did that with the old one to confirm it was no good. Should I take out the new one and do the same?

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Do it installed.  If still no good I'd be looking at the positive cable & all grounds.

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Ok, I'll give that a try tomorrow. So, what would it mean if I jump and it does start? Bad solenoid?  

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Bad ignition switch or wiring, possibly start relay if it has one.

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Did you check the ground cable where it bolts to the intake manifold?

 

Clean the two battery cables where they clamp to the battery posts?

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I'm totally flummoxed. It still won't turn over! I can hear it really struggling to push the flywheel. So far, I have:

 

Checked and cleaned the grounds. 

 

Removed and tested the new starter (it works).

 

Jumped the starter solenoid with it in the truck (struggles the same as when using the key).


Jumped the ignition switch (same as above) 


Replaced the battery (no change). 

 

Quadruple checked it's in neutral (both 2wd and 4wd levers) and hand rotated the drive shaft.

 

Pushed the flywheel with a screwdriver to make sure it turns freely.

 

Turned the crank pulley with a wrench to make sure it turns freely. 

 

Loosened the belts to make sure they weren't creating too much drag.

 

WHAT ELSE ON GOD'S GREEN EARTH WOULD KEEP IT FROM TURNING OVER?!?!

 

 

 

 

 

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Pull the plugs and try to crank it over by hand.

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Ok, pulled the plugs and turned by hand no problem. Cranked it over and it sounds a little funny, not your typical starter sound, but did turn over easily. 

 

Put the intake plugs back in and tested the open exhaust side for compression, not sure that's how you do it but that's what I did. All tested exactly 151psi. And notably the engine cranked over on each test.

 

So, no plugs and it cranks, what's with that?

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When you were crankinking it over with plugs out using the starter was there any strange noises?

 

Possible bad starter or bad flywheel. 

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