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datsunwhacko520

Oil pump distributor install

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81 510 with z2.0. Low pressure on startup and when @ operating temp. Brand new ka pump, distributor moved after drive fell out. 👎No service manual on hand👎In a rush, probably should of read up on it before disassembly😔

How do establish cam/ignition timing and get pump to slip in place. 5/20 mobil one ok viscosity for pac/nw, rarely over 90degrees. Picked up the oil for $2 quart👍

Any way to prime pump without using starter motor~oil pump filled with oil prior to installation. Thanks in advance.

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I would not use synthetic oil in these oil style motors.

 

One usually lines up the dot on dist drive with the indent on pump and install and should come out in 11.28 position. Might take a few trys

 

I fill pump with oil before install and then route a hose to the front cover via the oil filter hole and pump oil in there also.

 

On L motors I take the valve cover off(really I just look thru the hole to see where my #1 exhaust valve is and when its nearing the 9 oclock position I then use the crank dial it to zero. then install the pump so the dist drive is in the 11.28 position then install the dist and whereit points it should be on #1 plug.

 

You have a Z series motor so youll need to figure this out. How to figure TDC ect....

Edited by banzai510(hainz)
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Yes, make sure the motor is at TDC on #1 cylinder, then line up the dots on the oil pump and spindle. If you are careful, you should be able to guide the pump in place without disturbing the dot alignment. Fill the pump with oil before you stab it in.

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I got it thanks. Video link did help. Fired up first bump with key. I rotated over without coils connected to dist with starter b4 I put fire to it. Dist swap too. Fuel line burst between pump and weber, geyser! Oil pressure improved but had to kill it because of the fuel fountain!

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These engines will never need the extra protection of a synthetic oil. Pretty soon you'll notice oil leaking from the front seal or the oil pan or around the fuel pump or who knows where. Stuff is too thin, too expensive and too damn slippery and made for new cars. Rather get a diesel oil like Shell RotellaT4. Its still got the same high ZDDP levels all oils used to have. I'm running 20w40 but I see that it also comes in 10w30. I would never run anything under 10 unless in Alaska.

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I had planned on changing oil >200 miles just to purge possible moisture, etc. little under $2.00 qt...DEAL.I think ill be ok, still cool temps here for now. usually buy rotella diesel service oil unless delo or similar cheaper.....pretty sure they have more detergents to capture byproducts of combustion that go thru rings,valve guides etc. If a seal starts leaking it was most likely already failure prone. Check 4 loose bolts.good synthetics film strength is much higher, thus can have lower viscosity. This reduces cold start wear. less windage in crankcase, less carbon build up in combustion chambers too that causes pinging dieseling. I'm poor or I'd buy synthetics exclusively except for new motor break in and brake fluid. Can't fault the oil for a leak....doing a better job getting where it needs to go.When replacing gaskets grease one side with wheel bearing grease or Crisco. Sometimes brush on permatex or spray copper to hold in place. Always works 4 me,easily taken apart later.Only silicone on coolant, exhaust flanges. End up damaging gasket surface scraping off silicone later, bitch to get apart too. Sleeve really worn crank if a groove....will eat up a new seal faster if you dont.

Good synthetics DO have equal or better lubricating properties but I change @ 3k or less, I can't afford $7 a qt. Significant fuel mpg increase 3-4mpg with redline MTL in 5 speed slush box, dad's Audi 4000s....he was anal about mileage record keeping.

Hell, peanut oil 4 engine oil works just fine till goes rancid. Watch out for wild hungry elephants if they smell your tail pipe. 1/8 cup of veg oil will quiet noisy water pump if you dump in radiator....dawn to flush out later. Had one get so bad couldn't keep belt on because of wobbly bearing failure...still turned free. Had pump out and 2 bolts started on the new one when AAA got there.

 

THE BAD NEWS....

Pretty sure I need a z long block...low oil pressure faint rod noise, itz hurt. 😢😖😟Anybody have one local for cheap? Have 520 to trade. Might even pay ya to install for a fee if you are game. Need car now.

 

Gotta get F10 spiffy for canby. F10 really growing on me. Good rubber now,really makes it a blast to Zip around. Car has more spunk than I anticipated...poor MOOO dog needs 5pt harness for high speed roundabouts and blistering hairpins!

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It's not that the seals were failing, I was saying that a synthetic oil will leak where conventional oils will not. This includes gaskets too. I tried some on my 620 and the front seal developed a drip. After the next oil change (back to 10w30 conventional) is slowly dried up. It might go 12,000 miles between changes but what Datsun can go that far without 'burning' several Qts??? So now you've replaced at least half your oil and it's most likely black as shit. Better to use regular oil and change every 3K or so.

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I CHANGE MY OIL 2 A YEAR THATS IT.  SPRING AND BEFORE WINTER.

 

I don't think one needs to change it more often.My Cranks were fine when they were last checked. std size bearing installed

 

with Datsun owners key is keeping oil in there, also water in the rad.

 

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Yup these are OLD SCHOOL and designed for the '60s '70s when people took an active part in maintenance. They don't need exotic oils just change them and keep full. I see a rod sticking out of an L block I shake my head at how hard this must be to do by accident.   

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