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PercyTheAce

Weber 32/36 upgrade

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Hey all, I’ve got a 1980 b310 with an a14. My stock carb took a dump on me and I was gonna upgrade to the weber 32/36. What all has to be disabled/come off that may have been attached to the stock carb?

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I did mine a month ago. Everything that has a vacuum line has to be disconnected n capped off. The only line that goes on the new carb is the vacuum advance line from the distributor. My car is desmogged now

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So theres no egr valve or anything anymore? And what did you do about the vent tubes that go from the air cleaner to the exhaust manifold?

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No the carb kit comes with a block off plate for the egr. The vent tube just remained open...didnt block it off. I took off quite a few parts...i dont remember what they all are. But the instructions says what you have to remove. I happen to have a Haynes manual for my car too and that really came in handy.

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Just now, sunny310 said:

No the carb kit comes with a block off plate for the egr. The vent tube just remained open...didnt block it off. I took off quite a few parts...i dont remember what they all are. But the instructions says what you have to remove. I happen to have a Haynes manual for my car too and that really came in handy.

I have the Haynes manual too, and if the kit says what all I need to do then that’ll help a lot. It’s supposed to arrive Wednesday so I’ll let everyone know how it goes then

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On 5/18/2019 at 4:58 PM, PercyTheAce said:

 And what did you do about the vent tubes that go from the air cleaner to the exhaust manifold?

 

These are part of the AIS. (air injection system) After every exhaust pressure pulse there is a vacuum wave. At the air filter end there is a one way reed valve that only lets a vacuum wave suck a small amount of filtered air in. In this way air is sucked into and mixed with the exhaust and the catalytic converter burns more efficiently.

 

I would cut the bottom of the stock air cleaner to fit the Weber carburetor. This would allow the AIS to continue to work but more important the ATC (Automatic Temperature Control) could also be retained. This device in the filter housing snorkel mixes cold air from in front of the rad with air warmed by the exhaust manifold keeping it tightly controlled at around 100F. All year round the engine gets the same air temperature as early summer. In near freezing and lower it prevents carburetor icing and when under hood temperatures rise above 200F it reduces vapor lock. There is also a sensor and air bleed that reduces an over rich condition at idle when it is very hot. You should try to keep the stock air filter.

 

 

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