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Greaser2

70 Datsun 521 newbie

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If you took out two splines on the front of the truck, you are probably pretty close to the maximum the wheels can travel up to the frame of the truck, you have very little suspension travel.  There is nowhere for things to move.  If the suspension is bottomed out, it does not matter what shocks you have, they are not moving anyway.  

For the rear of the truck, how much room is there for things to move?  Again, no suspension travel, no movement for shocks to do their work.

 

The shock absorbers are there to dampen spring movement.   They absorb some shock, but not a lot of it, and they depend being able to move.  That is why new modern trucks are jacked so high, to provide a lot of room for a lot of suspension travel.

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KYB Gas-a-just are available for all 4 corners, but these are stiff as well. It’s a Japanese truck from the 70’s. The suspension sucked in the first place, and modding it makes it worse.

 

If you want to be low with better ride quality, it’s probably time for a balljoint conversion with coil overs, and a linked rear end.

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I’m pretty sure the front is running on the bump stops.  If I remove one, I may get some more travel there at least. It may not be better though. 

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4 hours ago, mainer311 said:

KYB Gas-a-just are available for all 4 corners, but these are stiff as well. It’s a Japanese truck from the 70’s. The suspension sucked in the first place, and modding it makes it worse.

 

If you want to be low with better ride quality, it’s probably time for a balljoint conversion with coil overs, and a linked rear end.

I was thinking of trying these on the rear and see what it adds or not.  The fronts, looking for options. I could go to one spline and see.  Or remove a bump stop and see. 

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If you remove the bumpstops, then you will hit metal on metal. Daystar and Prothane both make a thin low profile poly bumpstop that may (or may not) bolt in place of the original - http://battlebornoffroad.net/prothane/prothane-bump-stops/191319bl/i-142369.aspx

 

Also, you could cut some of the rubber off your existing bumpstop.

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43 minutes ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

If you remove the bumpstops, then you will hit metal on metal. Daystar and Prothane both make a thin low profile poly bumpstop that may (or may not) bolt in place of the original - http://battlebornoffroad.net/prothane/prothane-bump-stops/191319bl/i-142369.aspx

 

Also, you could cut some of the rubber off your existing bumpstop.

The hole is just a little to small to just install those, with the suspension assembled its basically impossible to drill the hole bigger... It's is possible to tap the hole to the thread size of those bump stops, without redrilling.. I used energy suspension ones, of course now I cant seem to find out what size the thread was.. .. I just did this on my truck... greaser2 if you want me to find that info let me know... it's on one of the pages in my thread....

Edit: couldnt find the page but verified on summit the thread is 3/8-16...

Edited by Crashtd420
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No bump stops is the suspension equivalent of running an engine hard that is detonating.  Something will break.

 

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I used the Energy Suspension ones too. Some auto stores like Pepboys even carry a selection of them. I went out and snagged a couple pics for you. Pardon my rusty junk.

 

eD3dHLE.jpg

 

nDdLaRI.jpg

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Got a part number? 

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2 hours ago, d.p said:

Got a part number? 

 

9.9102G or 9.9102R (red)

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Got a special project and need a 521 vent window seal for testing, prefer passenger side. Does not need to be perfect. Trying to avoid paying primo 

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After the recent hurricane and some driving in the rain figured out I had multiple leaks around the windshield. New one installed. 

60D16EDA-6793-4159-830C-8F6BC335F386.jpeg

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This clutch is so stiff, reminds me of a Zbar clutch in my Z28. Currently have a 11/16 bore slave, could try if my 3/4 slave makes a difference. Does Datsun make a 13/16 or even 7/8 slave?

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2 minutes ago, thisismatt said:

A larger diameter master will make it stiffer...

Larger slave should make it less. 

Edited by Greaser2
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6 minutes ago, Greaser2 said:

Larger slave should make it less. 

How dare you point out my misreading!

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36 minutes ago, Greaser2 said:

Larger slave should make it less. 

 

A larger slave will have less travel.

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6 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

 

A larger slave will have less travel.

Agree, just trying to avoid a new clutch/pressure plate. 

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Get a gym membership and work those legs.

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15 hours ago, d.p said:

what clutch do you have??

This is what I got, don’t recall exactly why other then I needed a pressure plate but it went in and works great. I’ve got 1400 miles on it and it has loosened a bit but still a pain. I’ve already added support around the clevis pin to keep from deforming the pedal. Perhaps a 280z 2+2 clutch is too much. 

82EFF448-774B-405F-A780-FF91E36118EE.jpeg

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That's a 240mm flywheel. Too much is never tooo much.

 

The 280z 2+2 and the later 280zx turbo used a 240mm with a clamping pressure of 780Kg or 1,700 pounds, an insane amount. Car L20B are about 400 and 620s are 550.

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Well that explains it.  Since I’m not good at picking clutch setups, what should I get?  Will I need a new flywheel?

Edited by Greaser2

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Nothing wrong with it. Is it too stiff for you?

 

21 hours ago, datzenmike said:

Get a gym membership and work those legs.

 

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