70 Datsun 521 newbie

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Of course, nothing beats a blast cabinet for removing rust. Some of those chemical strippers are great for paint prep, but I have not used one yet that will actually remove the rust. Neutralize it? Yes, but not remove it.

[thisismatt]

4 hours ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

Of course, nothing beats a blast cabinet for removing rust. Some of those chemical strippers are great for paint prep, but I have not used one yet that will actually remove the rust. Neutralize it? Yes, but not remove it.

Believe me, it removes rust. It's great for getting rust out of the inside of parts where you can't blast, too. As I recall it also removes mill scale which everyone seems to just paint over, which is a bad plan, Steve

[Greaser2]

I found these on eBay and they fit really well.  Only problem is it took 6 weeks to get and will need 3 total. $19 per.  

[wayno]

I use mid 90s Mazda SUV seals for my 521 door seals out of wrecking yards, 2 passenger side seals as they are not worn so bad and are reversible.

[mainer311]

You can readily get that edging stuff at McMaster.

Edited February 29, 2020 by mainer311

[Greaser2]

So going from the stock L16 and 4 speed to am L20b and FS5W63 trans. What from the L16 will not work on the L20b?  I did get an L20b fuel pump and a new clutch slave cylinder, EI, new intake and Weber. 

[datzenmike]

Use the L16 oil pan and pick up tube so the engine will fit the 521. Use the L16 engine brackets and rubber isolator mounts for the same reason. The L16 distributor, alternator, water pump and fan will work on an L20B so keep for spares. I have used an L16 head on an L20B while that head was milled. It will fit and work as a spare. Intake and exhaust will fit. The flywheel, block and internals are of no use to an L20B.

[DanielC]

"I did get an L20b fuel pump and a new clutch slave cylinder, EI, new intake and Weber."

A L-16 fuel pump will work just fine with a L-20-B.

I prefer the stock 521 clutch slave cylinder, because it has a spring that retracts the throw out bearing away from the clutch pressure plate spring fingers

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited March 1, 2020 by DanielC

[datzenmike]

Daniel, sometime after the 521/510 that spring and the adjustable push rod were done away with. The 521/510 slaves have a long spring inside pushing on the piston where the later ones have the smallest cone shaped spring with 2 coils.

[banzai510(hainz)]

L20 pump just has the inlet on a different side than a L16

there are Carter L16 clones on Rockauto or Amazon.assume made in China as they so cheap

[DanielC]

..."a long spring inside pushing on the piston"

This spring would push the slave cylinder piston toward the throw out lever, making the throw out bearing contact the pressure plate fingers.

The external spring on a 521 slave cylinder pulls the throw out lever toward the slave cylinder, pulling the throw out bearing slightly away from the pressure plate.

[wayno]

They did away with the spring the 521/Roadster slaves had on the outside Daniel,  and believe it or not there is a spring on the inside of the clutch slave.

[Greaser2]

Looks like the crankcase vent tube is different then the L16. Anyone have a L20b vent tube?

[Greaser2]

So I need a shifter for my FS5W63A dogleg. Anyone have one?  What other trans shifters will fit?

[datzenmike]

All 71B 4 and 5 speeds will. All the A series transmissions use the same pin and bushing but I don't think the shifters are long enough down into the striking rod....maybe.

[wayno]

I believe the 63A is the same as the 71B when it comes to the shift lever finger, but the 60 series 5spd transmission has a short finger and the ears are shorter so I would stay away from them shift levers even though I think they will work as I just test fit a short finger lever in a 71B 4spd and it appeared to shift fine.

Fact is I am too lazy to take the shift lever out of my 63A with an A series case on it because I would have to dig it out of where it is, but the ears look the same as the 71B.

Some of the 71B transmissions have tall ears(short shift) but the shift levers are the same as the regular ears so it appears there is some leeway.

[Greaser2]

Is this the right shifter?

[wayno]

I look at that and think column shift, I have never seen a finger on one that long.

[wayno]

This is what it should look like.

 

See how this one has a 2" finger measuring from the center of the hole to the end of the finger.

 

That one in the photo has a very long finger, never seen one like that before.

[datzenmike]

 

 

 

I lengthened mine to raise the fulcrum point and shorten the shift throw. To make it work you have to raise the pin hole too...

 

[wayno]

That mod is for a short shift, but it doesn't do anything about the neutral gate side movement.

[datzenmike]

Nope. Side to side, say shifting between second and third or 4th to 5th isn't huge anyway compared to the large forward and back movement of 1st to 2nd..

 

1.3.5

NNN

2.4.R

 

wayno I was curious so I did some measuring. Measuring between first and third center to center position of the shift knob is 2.75cm (just a hair under

1.1 inch) From first to second is 7.2cm (2.83") I have no idea what the stock shift distances are but certainly much more than this. It took me a while to get comfortable with this and although the shift is shortened some mechanical advantage (leverage) is lost. Fast shifting takes a slight increase in effort. If just driving not really noticeable. A couple of weeks driving and muscle memory is retrained. Shifting is all wrist movement in a box measuring 3.25" wide by 2.8" deep.

.

[Greaser2]

Is this how the vent tube is routed?  Where is the bracket supposed to attach too?  May just cut it off. 

[Crashtd420]

I think there is another bracket that's at a 90.... mine attaches to the rear manifold stud..... it's an L16 but has the vent tube like that....

[Crashtd420]

I dont have a good picture... I think it's a bracket used to lift the motor out....