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70 Datsun 521 newbie


Greaser2

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25 minutes ago, d.p said:

Is AC parasitic on l16s? 

 

Do you mean when your not using it?

 

When not activated it's just a free spinning pulley on the compressor..

 

When you activate the ac and the clutch on the compressor engages you definitely know it.... my motor drops maybe 200 rpm ... you will notice it at idle if you dont compensate for it but I dont feel anything different while driving....

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16 hours ago, Crashtd420 said:

 

Do you mean when your not using it?

 

When not activated it's just a free spinning pulley on the compressor..

 

When you activate the ac and the clutch on the compressor engages you definitely know it.... my motor drops maybe 200 rpm ... you will notice it at idle if you dont compensate for it but I dont feel anything different while driving....

 

Yeah that's what I was asking.  

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It's fine for an L16. The engine is 'tuned' to run with it that size. If you go too much larger (like a ridiculous 2 .5 or 3") on a stock engine you can alter the savaging effect by lowering exhaust speed. This usually robs a little of the the mid-range torque and power but can benefit high RPMs.  If you are looking at replacing the pipes anyway keep it in the 20%-33%  increase range unless intending to swap in a larger displacement engine or power adders like a cam and multiple carbs.

 

Keep in mind that a doubling in diameter of a pipe increases the flow by 4 times, not double. Going to a 2 1/8" pipe is double a 1  1/2" pipe. You'll never need that much flow. Going from 1.5" to 1.625 (1 5/8") is a 17% increase. A 1.75 (3/4") is 77% more than enough

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7 hours ago, datzenmike said:

It's fine for an L16. The engine is 'tuned' to run with it that size. If you go too much larger (like a ridiculous 2 .5 or 3") on a stock engine you can alter the savaging effect by lowering exhaust speed. This usually robs a little of the the mid-range torque and power but can benefit high RPMs.  If you are looking at replacing the pipes anyway keep it in the 20%-33%  increase range unless intending to swap in a larger displacement engine or power adders like a cam and multiple carbs.

 

Keep in mind that a doubling in diameter of a pipe increases the flow by 4 times, not double. Going to a 2 1/8" pipe is double a 1  1/2" pipe. You'll never need that much flow. Going from 1.5" to 1.625 (1 5/8") is a 17% increase. A 1.75 (3/4") is 77% more than enough

I will be going with a L20B. Is the 1.5 ok or should I go with a 1 7/8 or 2 inch?

Edited by Greaser2
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I'm  running a rebuilt  L18 with 9.5 to 1 compression ratio and a U67 head with a  weber  32/36  carb and a cannon intake  /stock exhaust manifold and running 2" exhaust pipe and baffled monza tips and a small rectangular muffler instead of the flow master muffler i used when i took my 521 to fontana bbq about 6 years ago. and i have no torque/power drain

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8 hours ago, Greaser2 said:

I will be going with a L20B. Is the 1.5 ok or should I go with a 1 7/8 or 2 inch?

 

I think the L20B engines in the 620 used  1 3/4" or 1 7/8" so 2" would work very well. Keep your L16 'cast iron header'. It's a 4 into 2 design separating the 1 and 4 from the 3 and 2 firing cylinders with a twin down pipe merging into one.

pqMwCZj.jpgCBsqIPD.jpg

 

 

All L20Bs use a 4 into 1 manifold...

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Below... L20B single outlet (bottom and L16/18 dual outlet pipes.

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On my L20B I got rid of the 4 into 1 exhaust and fitted an earlier L16 manifold and a modified 240sx twin down pipe...

 

mRhIAwH.jpg

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So I figure everyone has or had this problem so I wanted to post this brake cable boot I found that fits very well.  My plastic slide grommet was still on the cable so that fit at the bottom great. This is a 60-93 Dodge truck brake cable boot. Cost about $35  and super easy to install  Mzf4YK1.jpg

MuSjrEc.jpg

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