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valve cover vent?


530-521

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14 minutes ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

On my 510 I just got a longer hose and routed it down to the ground.(have sidedraft carbs)

 

On my 521 the weber aircleaner has a hole with a L tube and one could route and hook it up under the aircleaner and it will help suck up the stink.

Otherwise your motor look pretty clean and simple

It’s ok... I think. It runs really well actually, but it LEAKS. There’s a bit of a coolant leak at the water pump mounting area, but the oil it leaks is insane. I’m pretty sure the valve cover is the main one, but maybe the pan too... I should just start with the valve cover first though right??? Any other areas that should be of concern on these motors? 

 

I need to purple power it- so I can see WTF is going on - I’m just working up the courage and setting aside time between work, family, and my mom not doing well  at all.

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You can reroute back into your engine to have it burn off, or just toss a 'catch-can' on it and deal with proper disposal when you do regular oil changes / maintenance on it. 

Leaks come from everywhere on the old Datsuns. From what I've read you don't want to be making your own gaskets out of the silicone tube stuff like Permatex, but regular gasket material or even old cereal boxes will work just fine. 

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29 minutes ago, BrothersGarage said:

You can reroute back into your engine to have it burn off, or just toss a 'catch-can' on it and deal with proper disposal when you do regular oil changes / maintenance on it. 

Leaks come from everywhere on the old Datsuns. From what I've read you don't want to be making your own gaskets out of the silicone tube stuff like Permatex, but regular gasket material or even old cereal boxes will work just fine. 

 

 

Copy that

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Should also be a crankcase vent (Below the the intake/exhaust manifolds ??). Where's it plumbed to ?? This is a circular system and should have a PCV valve in there somewhere.

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The crankcase vent is connected to the lower intake manifold where it normally goes. If you zoom in you can see it. 

 

Some people on here think that RTV silicone is the devil, but if used correctly, there’s nothing wrong with it.

 

I put a valve cover gasket on my truck from Rock Auto that works really well. It’s like a weird waxy material.

 

It’s a Fel-pro VS26045A.

Edited by mainer311
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I’m a mechanical engineer and I spec the usage of different types of Loctite all the time, and I can honestly say that I’ve never used it in that type of application. 

 

I think the problem is that you can’t guarantee that it will cure in all locations, since any exposure to air will keep it uncured.

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You need to keep in mind that if that valve cover filter is puking oil you have blow-by, all older engines have blow-by, but once they get older with more miles on them it can get worse, mine had so much blow-by if I removed the oil filler cap while it was running/idling a big round spot of oil residue would appear on the under side of the hood even when it was open, that oil was being sprayed up more than 2 feet.

I had that valve cover outlet piped down past the frame but the pipe wasn't big enough and that much blow-by could not escape, so I was leaking oil out my seals/gaskets, I gave up on that L20b as it had worked hard for 15 years, the valve seals were shot also, I built an LZ23 to replace it.

If that little filter is oil soaked and the outside is dirty it might not breath properly(semi plugged), that could be the reason your seals/gaskets are leaking, that outlet needs to either be piped down past the frame rail at the ground without a filter on it(open to air), or it needs to be piped to the carb, now it can get messy if not piped properly, the best would be if the pipe end pointed straight down the primary carb opening so the oil don't soak the air filter element, but you would need to fabricate something up to do that that likely will look funky, so a catch can or at the ground would likely be best, do not plug that hose outlet, you will have oil coming out everywhere if you do as the blow-by has to escape.

I would replace that little filter often if your going to go that route, all my L blocks are piped down past the frame open to the air now as they all have Dual SUs with pancake filters, my work truck used to have a stock 510 air filter canister(modified) for years with that hose piped to the canister, it was an oily mess inside it.

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g6R1OAq.jpg

 

If any engine needed a catch can.... this one does. A good one will be plumbed to the air cleaner but will strip most of the solid oil droplets out. But then you have to dispose of the waste oil.

 

You could run the hose into the air cleaner between the filter and the carburetor opening. Underneath or on top. This is how it's set up on the stock application. Oily air and smell will be sucked down into the engine and burned. There is no maintenance required with this. That tiny air filter is clogged and the PCV system will work much better without it.

 

I would check that the crankcase is not being over filled. Next oil change fill with 4 quarts and check the stick. If below the full line don't add any. Top up only to what you read.

 

 

Get  a proper gasket. Those other sealants are messy as hell at best and look like shit. Actually you'll look like a Chevy owner. They put that shit on EVERYTHING! Never seen a 305 'mullet mobile' without a quart of blue or orange sealer on them.

 

 

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With the hood down there isn't the room. It's really the large volume of air that pushes the spray/vapor/mist out before it has a chance to collect on a surface and drip back down the inside of the valve cover. There is a baffle on the under side of the L series valve cover. A catch can, a good one, will have a mesh inside to catch fine droplets and provide a surface they can cling to.

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That 90 degree elbow in the valve cover is threaded in there, one could possibly take it out and put a short fitting in the hole that points straight up and then connect that type of filter to it pointed straight up, if that air filter clears the hood that short little filter will likely clear also, but finding the proper fitting will be the challenge.

 

 

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His PCV hose is fine its stock.

Whats Brothers Garage said I don't get .It needs to vent .In stock aircleaner it goes to the outside of the filter in the aircleaner case but since that's not there most just vent it to the carb.

 

I seen people rout the hose to the Crankcase vent which is Wrong or peopleplug up the crank case tube vent which is WRONG again.

 

Felpro male s a nice valve cover gasket and they are cheap, buy a couple. don't over tighten it

 

if you wash the motor with pressure washer and hose and truck hard to start its most like condensation under dist cap!!!!

 

 

I say put put the hose to the carb or route it long and down DONE!!!!!!!

 

 

Buy some nice aNGK wire set. NE64 part number

Edited by banzai510(hainz)
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21 minutes ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

Whats Brothers Garage said I don't get .It needs to vent .In stock aircleaner it goes to the outside of the filter in the aircleaner case but since that's not there most just vent it to the carb.

 

 

That's wrong. The inlet goes to the inside of the air filter.

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4 hours ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

His PCV hose is fine its stock.

Whats Brothers Garage said I don't get .It needs to vent .In stock aircleaner it goes to the outside of the filter in the aircleaner case but since that's not there most just vent it to the carb.

 

I seen people rout the hose to the Crankcase vent which is Wrong or peopleplug up the crank case tube vent which is WRONG again.

 

Felpro male s a nice valve cover gasket and they are cheap, buy a couple. don't over tighten it

 

if you wash the motor with pressure washer and hose and truck hard to start its most like condensation under dist cap!!!!

 

 

I say put put the hose to the carb or route it long and down DONE!!!!!!!

 

 

Buy some nice aNGK wire set. NE64 part number

Do you by any chance have the part # for the valve cover gasket???

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