Datsun 620 heater blower switch

[FiremarshalBill49]

What are my options for repairing or replacing the (pull-out/push-in) heater fan switch in my 72' PL620?  It has always worked on the high speed only, but now the blower motor isn't coming on at all.  I'm almost positive it is an electrical issue.  Are new switches still available or is my only option to find a good used one? Are they difficult to replace?  Thanks!

[datzenmike]

You'll need to find another switch or take apart and fix the old.

 

Hi speed only means the voltage dropping coil is broken. It's plugged into the driver's side of the heater fan chamber above the gas peddle. Just pry out with screwdriver. You may be able to twist the ends together and get it to work but don't solder because it gets hot and why it's mounted in the air flow from the fan to keep it cool. Probably had one or more blue or blue with strip wires to it.

[Seeker > 620 KC]

I've pulled a bunch of these, have been lucky not to find a broken one yet. Typically the rivet that holds the wire eyelet breaks leaving the eyelet intact. I go to the hardware store and get a brass screw and nut to hold it together, and doesn't seem to corrode as fast.

[FiremarshalBill49]

Thanks guys for the input - I really do appreciate it.  Unfortunately, my body, arms, and legs just don't bend like they used to, and although I can "see" almost the entire length of the blue w/white stripe wire that goes from the blower motor to the switch, I can't reach it without removing the entire factory air conditioning unit situated below the dash. :-(   Bill

[Seeker > 620 KC]

You don’t need to access the fan switch to check the voltage dropping coil, they are in different places.  The spade connectors on the left side of blower housing are where the voltage dropping coil is that Datzen Mike said to pry up the plastic piece. 

 

If you have an under-dash AC unit with the switches mounted on the unit itself (blower unit has it’s own  motor.) , unscrew the sheet metal screws that hold the unit in place and  see if the evapoator (the same blower unit) will drop down down enough to give you access to the voltage dropping coil, &/or heater motor. Don’t force the AC unit  if it doesn’t move easily, you don’t want to bond any hard lines, especially if the unit is still charged and working. If it AC unit is not  charged and working you might consider removing until a future date, when your repairs are done. 

 

For process of elimination and steps in ease of access: 

First, I suggest checking your your fuses first to ensure you still have 12 volts going to the switch and fan. 

2nd run a separate 12 volt wire to the fan motor to test it in-place and see if it works before removing the AC or taking your dash apart.

If it does not work repair/replace. if it does work, move on to tracing wires with a simple test-light and ensure you have 12 volts to switch and on to motor. Then  repair the voltage dropping coil. 

If you have 12volts to motor, and the motor works, and coil is repaired, only then I would go into the dash and replace/rebuild the switch. 

If you have mobility issues like me you may need to find a wiry friend to help out!