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Dat521sun

My 521

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7 minutes ago, gene knight said:

welcome and what year is that super beetle

Thanks Gene, the Super Beetle is same year as the truck, 1972. Is for sale... 😉 

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A couple of weeks ago, I started the 521 and the idle went thru the roof, over 2500. Turned her off and adjusted the carb, got her to play nice but it was rough, sounded like I had a V8 under the hood. I thought it was the carb, since it was an old weird Weber with no butterfly or choke. 

 

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I order the right one and installed it,

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but it keep acting up, it idles but when the gas is pressed, it just dies. Checked for compression, since the engine sounds awful and this is what I get: 

 

1st Piston

 

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2nd Piston:

 

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3rd Piston

 

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4th Piston

 

1haTLry.jpg

 

Any ideas you guys can give me? 

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that 1st carb is a progressive and is used on vw bugs and is missing parts, no good its just a paperweight.  it is junk on datsuns, glad you bought a new weber carb, did you adjust the settings on new carb when installed and is the jetting for different elevations and have you flushed your tank/lines and what about fuel pump how new is it and filter what about your timing how clean/new are plugs, cap / rotor/ wires/points gapped correctly

Edited by gene knight

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Thanks Gene, my truck is just picky, she wanted new wires and spark plugs. Now she's back, better with the new cab. Just need to do some carb adjustment and find the wire for the e-choke

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All of those compressions are fine. They’re at least fairly consistent.

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On 6/22/2019 at 10:09 AM, gene knight said:

that 1st carb is a progressive and is used on vw bugs and is missing parts, no good its just a paperweight.  it is junk on datsuns, glad you bought a new weber carb, did you adjust the settings on new carb when installed and is the jetting for different elevations and have you flushed your tank/lines and what about fuel pump how new is it and filter what about your timing how clean/new are plugs, cap / rotor/ wires/points gapped correctly

I don't know if I agree with you. That first carb looks suspiciously like a "smog legal" Weber that was available for Datsuns for a long time. I believe Redline sold the kit, and it used that same carb. You're right that the carb was used on many other applications. I think guys used to call it a Fiat Weber.

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3 hours ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

if you have a 72 the choke 12v wire should be back there somewhere.

I don't like the elelctric and went with a DGV 5a which is a pull wire choke

Thanks Hainz, I'll look for the wire. Funny, because I tried one, and truck wouldn't fire, now my temperature gauge does not work (used one hot wire that used to connect to the pos for dizzy (old points) 8fLAJSD.jpg

I think the I fried the temperature sensor, since I unplugged it and the gauge shows hot when grounded

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54 minutes ago, mainer311 said:

Nothing "Fiat" was ever good.

 

I think Gene is right.

 

https://www.jbugs.com/product/43-0622-7.html

But the link shows the progressive carb with choke and butterfly, the one that I had have neither 

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1 hour ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

I don't know if I agree with you. That first carb looks suspiciously like a "smog legal" Weber that was available for Datsuns for a long time. I believe Redline sold the kit, and it used that same carb. You're right that the carb was used on many other applications. I think guys used to call it a Fiat Weber.

😂 🤣 😅 Very suspicious, but it was working until now

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your temp sender has to still be good. sand the post on the temp sender.

 

if I remember right the points blk/red wire is the main set points with the bigger condenser hanging outside dist, the other wire will be for the second set of points(I didn't use it myself)

 

 

I see you wrote NEG wire Pos. Both dist wires are negative really as the positive is on the + side coil. neg is when the point closes and the COIL charges up. and when points open the field collaspses thus going thu the 2nd winding of the coil out to the spark plugs

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40 minutes ago, Dat521sun said:

But the link shows the progressive carb with choke and butterfly, the one that I had have neither 

 

It probably stopped working, so a PO removed it completely and just feathered the throttle until it warmed up.

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1 hour ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

your temp sender has to still be good. sand the post on the temp sender.

 

if I remember right the points blk/red wire is the main set points with the bigger condenser hanging outside dist, the other wire will be for the second set of points(I didn't use it myself)

 

 

I see you wrote NEG wire Pos. Both dist wires are negative really as the positive is on the + side coil. neg is when the point closes and the COIL charges up. and when points open the field collaspses thus going thu the 2nd winding of the coil out to the spark plugs

I thought it was a neg, but it makes sense what you're saying. I'll check the sensor and clean it, I'll let you know. 

 

Thanks 

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53 minutes ago, mainer311 said:

 

It probably stopped working, so a PO removed it completely and just feathered the throttle until it warmed up.

Funny thing, it always fire up, no need to press the gas pedal or wait to warm up. Maybe it was so old that it work 😂 🤣 😅 I know the throttle cable was bend, maybe that was helping. 

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if your truck is running then the points are working but would get a EI distributor or find a single point distributor and put a Pertronix kit In it.

 

Does truck idle or isthe choke ON when cold that's why it running and once choke closes you have no idle? then clean the idle jet.

Open the fuel filter and see if its full of junk.

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36 minutes ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

if your truck is running then the points are working but would get a EI distributor or find a single point distributor and put a Pertronix kit In it.

 

Does truck idle or isthe choke ON when cold that's why it running and once choke closes you have no idle? then clean the idle jet.

Open the fuel filter and see if its full of junk.

Already running a Petronix, installed an old dizzy from a 77 620, since it has single points instead of double points. 

 

At this moment I'm running the truck with the e-choke disconnected. Installed a new Weber 

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Dat521sun: I'm running a 32/36 weber with manual choke cable on my L18 and i am running  9.5 to 1 compression ratio and a U67 head so i can not run cheap gas or the valves start rattling and i was using a matchbox dizzy but now i converted to HEI module next to coil on d/s inner fender well. no points in my dizzy. glad it is running better for you

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At this moment I'm running the truck with the e-choke disconnected. Installed a new Weber???????

 

 

so what opens the choke if there is not 12volts going to it?????????

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56 minutes ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

At this moment I'm running the truck with the e-choke disconnected. Installed a new Weber???????

 

 

so what opens the choke if there is not 12volts going to it?????????

Honestly, I don't know what's opening the choke, I just know that the trucks fires right up, and runs. Drove it yesterday for some errands around town (about 60 miles) and no problem, runs smoothly and better

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look down the carb if the choke plate is closed when COLD then its choke is working and will run at a higher RPM. That whats it supposed to do. Once warm the choke plate should be fully open otherwise youll run Rich  and maybe don't get a full throttle cause your blocking the extra air needed at higher RPM

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Electric chokes will open (but not fully) by themselves just from engine heat. Will not run well, but will run. If set right the fast idle will still be on and this is what alerts you something isn't right.

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22 hours ago, Dat521sun said:

But the link shows the progressive carb with choke and butterfly, the one that I had have neither 

Someone obviously removed the choke.

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Cleaned and polished my 47 years old valve cover and came out pretty good without using any sand paper or power tooltQNzmxO.jpgwCVOpLX.jpgpJwES0V.jpg

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