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removing bumpers on 79 210


sunny310

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Anyone know how hard it is to get the stock bumpers off? I got some jdm ones that im dying to put on my car along with my other jdm goodies. Also any tips for installing a weber carb? My car is a Cali spec so its has all the emissions crap on it

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1 hour ago, datzenmike said:

I would keep all the stuff you take off so you can put back on for testing.

No emissions testing here in South Dakota. Will keep it all tho in case I move

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18 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

😄 Someone will want it.

 

The adapter plates ALWAYS come loose so loc-tite them

Ok will be sure to do that. That carb looks like it'll be a PITA to get off. That's what I'm a little nervous about. BTW those webers run straight outta the box don't they? It's a 32/36 fyi

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Run? No. You've got to figure out throttle and choke and emissions deletes, then once its physically on it'll run but not great until tuned. A wideband O2 sensor is worth it weight in gold for this.

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Is the wideband thing necessary? Don’t know much about those. I’ve been looking at installation videos on YouTube. Some of em make it look easy but I’m still nervous about messing up something 

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You cant mess up installing a wide band o2 and air/fuel gauge, it pretty much a stand alone system ... It simply reads the exhaust and displays the info.   

Get a good one if you bother... 

 

As far neccessary that depends.... 

With my carb I am using it to tune and monitor my engine but once I get the tune right I probably wont change anything..... 

 

You could also read the plugs but that doesnt always tell the whole picture,  or pay a dyno shop who may or may not have jets to tune it....

 

So it comes down to cost and Availability of a shop who can do the tuning. To get it perfect....

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  • 2 weeks later...

The stock hitachi is a PITA to get off.  Bending a 10mm wrench to 90 degrees helps a lot.  Use the box end, but you will need to grind the outer edge of the box end ring down a bit for best fit  (just a bit a time until it fits well).

 

The weber 32/36 dgev if purchased for a A14 engine should work out of the box jet wise.

 

Start by ensuring your float is adjusted to the correct measurements.  33mm holding vertically from edge of carb to bottom most point of float.  50-51mm when held horizontally (I think).

 

Find the Weber tuning guide posted somewhere here in the forums and read, read, read.  So you have the whole process down pat in your head.

 

1 1/2 turns out of the idle circuit to start with.  Once the car is warmed up, turn the idle circuit out until the idle gets rough, then back in until it stumbles, then about halfway between those 2 points.  Be sure your timing is at base 10-12 degrees advanced before starting this.  And put in all new spark plugs.

Then follow the rest of the tuning guide. If it takes more than 2 turns out for the idle circuit the jet is too small, but I doubt you will have that issue if there are no vacuum leaks and the float is adjusted correctly.

 

Since you have no emissions you will want an EGR delete plate.  Also premake you spare paper gaskets, as you will be changing these about every 6 months. As mentioned above the adapter bolts do like to come loose.  I like to take the copper gasket spray and coat the paper and let it dry, helps prevent fuel from wetting the paper gaskets.  You can keep the ceramic piece from the hitachi mounted, this will help keep some heat from transfering to the weber.  I actually keep all the base mount pieces from the hitachi underneath my adapter.

 

As for power, well if its and automatic nothing can help it.  If it is a manual, maybe 5 more horsepower, better throttle response.  And depending on driving style gas mileage may go up, or may go down.

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