Top mount turbo SR20... with brake booster?

[jovial_cynic]

Is there any solution for power assist brakes with you have the SR20DET turbo in the way?

 

I've got the bigger MC and big brakes up front and discs in the back. I'd love a booster, but I can't figure out how to fit a booster anywhere. 

 

Ideas?

 

[mklotz70]

You can use a remote booster mounted in another location.  Basically, your manual (singe reservoir) m/c pushes a remote slave, attached to a booster that pushes a dual circuit m/c.  It's pretty common on street rods.  Otherwise, look into hydro boosted m/c's.

 

[jovial_cynic]

Aha. I've never heard of such a thing until now. Thanks!

[paradime]

On "what did you do to your dime today" you mentioned you were experiencing a lack of brake power. Did you bleed your brakes yet to see it that fixed it? I can't imagine if they're working right that you'd need or even want a booster. I have a big brake kit on my SR 510 and have never been left wanting more. I wouldn't describe the feel as twitchy, but you need to be ginger on the peddle or they'll lock up without much effort. By a "big m/c" is it a single cylinder or duel? 

 

If you're dead set on power assist brakes, Smart Booster and Datsport put the booster on the other side of the firewall. 

 

Edited March 26, 2019 by paradime

[jovial_cynic]

I've bled them a few times... and now that I think about it, each time I've done it, there have been more bubbles here and there. I probably have a little bit of air inside each of the calipers; they were bone dry when I installed them.

[mklotz70]

You can smack on the calipers with a plastic hammer or block of wood to knock bubbles loose.  Bleed them again after you've gone out and "bed" the brakes.  The heat and use should help free up the bubbles too.  If you keep getting bubbles, you have an issue that's allowing air in as opposed to just trapped air.

[jovial_cynic]

Brakes properly bled, good to go! (Good to stop?)