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reza

1969 510 Race Car Save

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Well, lets see where this goes. 
I'm not new to the 510, I had the chance to buy this one, and had it delivered yesterday. I'd like to find some history or see if any old school Datsun folk recognize it. I first saw this car in Medford around 5 years ago, it made its way to Klamath Falls, and has sat since. 
Some key points on the car
1969
Original color was Red
metal flares
Roof was pealed back to extract cage
still set up for L series and trans tunnel cut to fit a 5 speed. 
4 pin hood and pinned deck lid. 
Im going to remove/replace the flares, graft on a replacement roof and get it rolling. Then we'll see where it goes. 



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Edited by reza
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Excited to see where this goes!

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Make it happen!!!!

 

Its soo sad to see these race cars rot away... I saw a four door here in the northeast last year, that would have been totally savable... but someone stripped it and let it sit too long... it was too big of a project for me, but I so wanted to make it happen. 

 

It amazes me how someone could put that much work into a car and then just discard it.... 

 

Good luck! look forward to watching this car get revived!

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25 minutes ago, Josh K. said:

Dodge Omni flares?

No idea, they are super funky though, they look very home brew but I'll take a flashlight along the bottom side and see how they were fabricated. on the other side of the car the flares have been damaged, the body is fine but both wheel arches are hammered. 

 

 

23 hours ago, demo243 said:

Make it happen!!!!

 

Its soo sad to see these race cars rot away... I saw a four door here in the northeast last year, that would have been totally savable... but someone stripped it and let it sit too long... it was too big of a project for me, but I so wanted to make it happen. 

 

It amazes me how someone could put that much work into a car and then just discard it.... 

 

Good luck! look forward to watching this car get revived!


I have a soft spot for old Datsuns, I couldn't let this one die, I hope to really give it a good turn around and life. 

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The fact they even have an inside lip makes those flares better than 90% of what I've seen slapped on the sides of Datsuns over the years.

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The flares were garbage, covered in layers of uncured body filler, I'll be going with BRE rear rivet ons and fiber glass BRE full fronts. 
Here's the progress so far!
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Edited by reza
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Edited by reza
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So were moving along, just sprayed all the joints with etching primer in case we get some moisture. I'm going to be going over every weld joint with lead, the outer sheet metal is all welded, next update is the inner panels. 

Edited by reza
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I’d do silicone bronze instead of lead personally, just a thought.

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3 hours ago, jbirds510 said:

I’d do silicone bronze instead of lead personally, just a thought.

You're going to have to fill me in on what silicone bronze is and how it could be used😂 im familiar with lead, thats why i would choose that method over 2 part body filler. 

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21 minutes ago, reza said:

You're going to have to fill me in on what silicone bronze is and how it could be used😂 im familiar with lead, thats why i would choose that method over 2 part body filler. 

It’s a soft metal that files down really nice, not intended for structural but pretty much ideal for your application. It won’t stretch shrink or crack like lead or body filler..it’s metal it just doesn’t have carbon, very similar to brass (braze). I tend to use it when doing sheet metal repair like a mid slinger would use glazing putty

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50 minutes ago, jbirds510 said:

It’s a soft metal that files down really nice, not intended for structural but pretty much ideal for your application. It won’t stretch shrink or crack like lead or body filler..it’s metal it just doesn’t have carbon, very similar to brass (braze). I tend to use it when doing sheet metal repair like a mid slinger would use glazing putty

I see what you're saying as far as acting like a glaze, I'll watch some more videos of it, I've checked out some on youtube already, my main concern would be overheating the panel due to being a noob at the process and warping it all to hell :)  I'll have to talk to you more about this process, looks like it would be killer to use on the interior and window posts. 

Edited by reza
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I have brazed joints on some of my cars and found that even with etching primer  the paint tends to lift over time.  I now use lead or body filler if the coat is thin.  I have a new welder and an artist to do the fine work now so filling is not as much of a problem.

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Just a thought here. Is it possible that the different thermodynamics from the dissimilar metals eventually cause the paint bond to weaken? Like paint would stretch more on one metal than the other and prematurely fail...Though that doesn't explain why lead works better. I would need to know what the brazing material is to compare the expansion coefficients

Edited by sebpv
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I silicone bronze hand made chopper tanks, never had an issue with paint adhesion. I’ve also used Eastwood’s lead free lead, it works good. Applies just like lead but won’t make you forget your own name haha

 

Keep in mind that bronze flows like solder, much much lower melting point than the base material so warpage become much less of an issue.

Edited by jbirds510

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Duncans aussie 510 wagon was all done with eastwood non lead metal filler if you want to read through his thread.

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8 hours ago, Lockleaf said:

Duncans aussie 510 wagon was all done with eastwood non lead metal filler if you want to read through his thread.


Thanks for the info, I'll give his thread a read. I like Eastwoods tinning butter but I'm primed to use 60/40 or 70/30, I work outside, will wash hands and I primarily shape with body files.
the real lead/tin goes on so much easier and I have to be careful working on this 20 gauge sheet metal, whenever I've seen guys using eastwood non lead, they are working on 18 gauge panels for old fords, that may be more forgiving. 

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