Jump to content
alexg89

KA with sidedrafts

Recommended Posts

So i have a quick question


Wideband stuff.. This head has a few pots on it .. would i just plum the Wideband into one of them or would i install it after the collector ???

 

Im kinda confused here 

Share this post


Link to post

You want to read the entire engine output so about 6" after the collector into a single pipe. If you want to get extreme, one for every cylinder. 😄 Still setting mine up but it's a 4 into 2 with the down pipe 2 into 1 and the O2 about a foot  farther back It's back beside the transmission. The literature says (and common sense) to mount on the side of the pipe or angled slightly upward. I took my down pipe off and mounted vertically beside the transmission so no chance of hitting anything.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post

Alright so wide band cam in

http://www.wide-band.com/product-p/wb_d2n.htm

This is the one i got 

 

I stuck it in the o2 bunch thats already on the header and im actually pretty close with what ive been doing 

 

I knew it was fat down low and it sits about 10.9 at idle and while cruise its between 12.9-13.1 

 

But the transition down low where i have been getting hesitations and its popping it leans out 17-19

 

So how do i go about fixing transition problems??

Share this post


Link to post

10.9 is way too rich for idle. Stoichiometric is much better and the plugs won't foul, besides it's idle. 14s are ok for mild acceleration and cruise but richer for heavy throttle. Low 13s maybe into the 12s. Excessive richness will cut power.

Share this post


Link to post
3 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

10.9 is way too rich for idle. Stoichiometric is much better and the plugs won't foul, besides it's idle. 14s are ok for mild acceleration and cruise but richer for heavy throttle. Low 13s maybe into the 12s. Excessive richness will cut power.

And i can work on that now that i have the WB but im confused on how to fix this transition issue.. if its technically RICH all over the board why is it leaning out so hard 

 

If im pulling out of my drive way or cruising around 30 its bucking and leaned all the way out until i give it more throttle 

Share this post


Link to post

Sorry, can't help with that but will be watching. I'm in the process of adding MC carburetors to my L20B. Jetting theory should be close to the same.

Share this post


Link to post
4 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

Sorry, can't help with that but will be watching. I'm in the process of adding MC carburetors to my L20B. Jetting theory should be close to the same.

 

Gotcha well at least you gave me something to look for.. maybe in the mist of things ill figure it out.. just dont wanna keep dumping money into jets and maybe its an air bypass deal..  

Who knows lol ive gotten this far with what yall have given me, should be able to get this 

Share this post


Link to post
42 minutes ago, alexg89 said:

Alright so wide band cam in

http://www.wide-band.com/product-p/wb_d2n.htm

This is the one i got 

 

I stuck it in the o2 bunch thats already on the header and im actually pretty close with what ive been doing 

 

I knew it was fat down low and it sits about 10.9 at idle and while cruise its between 12.9-13.1 

 

But the transition down low where i have been getting hesitations and its popping it leans out 17-19

 

So how do i go about fixing transition problems??

 

This is the fun part about the webers... change one thing and it changes something else....

So when it goes lean is it quick or does it stay there?

How far out are you air/fuel screws?

Try adjusting those in a bit....

 

If that doesnt help I would start with a leaner idle jet, and readjust the air fuel screws and see what you get... 

 

If it's when you open the throttle quick you may need a slightly bigger pump jet...

 

Also note the rpm and have a ruff idea of your throttle position when you see something you dont like.... 

 

Oh and thanks for the tip on the zero drain for the accelerator pump, , I still need a test ride but I could already see a difference.....

 

Share this post


Link to post
26 minutes ago, alexg89 said:

And i can work on that now that i have the WB but im confused on how to fix this transition issue.. if its technically RICH all over the board why is it leaning out so hard 

 

If im pulling out of my drive way or cruising around 30 its bucking and leaned all the way out until i give it more throttle 

 

Remember cruising if your rpms are low you may not even be on the main circuit yet....

 

You can also try adjusting the idle speed screw that will change slightly the throttle blade.... I'll take a couple pics from the weber tuning book for you....

Share this post


Link to post
1 minute ago, Crashtd420 said:

 

This is the fun part about the webers... change one thing and it changes something else....

So when it goes lean is it quick or does it stay there?

How far out are you air/fuel screws?

Try adjusting those in a bit....

 

If that doesnt help I would start with a leaner idle jet, and readjust the air fuel screws and see what you get... 

 

If it's when you open the throttle quick you may need a slightly bigger pump jet...

 

Also note the rpm and have a ruff idea of your throttle position when you see something you dont like.... 

 

Oh and thanks for the tip on the zero drain for the accelerator pump, , I still need a test ride but I could already see a difference.....

 

 

SO when it leans out it stays there and its between 1200-2000 if i recall correctly 

The screws are all between 3.5 - 3.75 turns out BUT the new 152 styles have to be out that far because of the style of screw it is 

 

Currently i have the 60f8 idles in 

and i need to put my zero drains back in.. put the stock ones in and i feel it hurt it a little 

 

as for the idle speed screw mine is just cracked cause they say it should be at .5 turns for idle and im at like .3 of a turn in 

Share this post


Link to post

Well screw the air/fuel screw a full turn in... you are definitely still on the idle circuit.... 

Share this post


Link to post

I have the new model too... it's a 40dcoe but they are basically the same...

There is an inspection hole for the throttle blade....

 

20190516-093029.jpg

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
3 minutes ago, Crashtd420 said:

Well screw the air/fuel screw a full turn in... you are definitely still on the idle circuit.... 

 

ill have to try that.. i have all my current settings wrote down .. and idk if you remember the timing issue i was having but i backed it down to about 20 degrees and it seems to be a little better 

Share this post


Link to post
1 minute ago, alexg89 said:

 

ill have to try that.. i have all my current settings wrote down .. and idk if you remember the timing issue i was having but i backed it down to about 20 degrees and it seems to be a little better 

Ya I still dont know what to say about that.... 20 still seems high.  

Did you ever check and see what you get at full advance?

Share this post


Link to post

Ill have to try a few things in there.. but what its say is 

 The transition stage may be enriched by increasing the idle fuel jet diameter or reducing the air get diameter

So i have all the idle jets 55f8, 60f8, 65f8, and 70f8

 

So if i stuck the 65f8 in and pushed the mixture screws in a little that should help? am i reading this right ???

Share this post


Link to post

Yes but your over rich at idle.... 

I would leave your idle jet alone, put the zero drain back in, the readjusted idle speed screw and air/fuel screw and see what you get....

 

Only change one thing at a time.... 

Share this post


Link to post
1 minute ago, Crashtd420 said:

Yes but your over rich at idle.... 

I would leave your idle jet alone, put the zero drain back in, the readjusted idle speed screw and air/fuel screw and see what you get....

 

Only change one thing at a time.... 

Roger that .. whats the point of the air bypass screws on there?  do they serve a purpose in more fine tunning or no?

Share this post


Link to post
4 minutes ago, alexg89 said:

Roger that .. whats the point of the air bypass screws on there?  do they serve a purpose in more fine tunning or no?

It's for fine tuning the vacuum  .... I'll post that part from the book... give me a minute...

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post

good to know .. i mean i know i have it close with my little sync thing i have but i dont have the vacuum ports on it to hook that big 4 sync thing to it 

Share this post


Link to post
9 minutes ago, alexg89 said:

good to know .. i mean i know i have it close with my little sync thing i have but i dont have the vacuum ports on it to hook that big 4 sync thing to it 

They are there..... it's a plug near the air fuel screw... you need to remove the cap and install a fitting.... 

Share this post


Link to post

I missed this, but where is the O2 sensor located? To the rear of the collector?

Share this post


Link to post

20190516-103748.jpg

 

#48 is the vacuum port.. 

 

#71 is the throttle plate inspection port... has 3 small holes under it...

Screenshot-20190516-103941-Gallery.jpg

Share this post


Link to post

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.