Stoffregen Motorsports Posted April 25, 2019 Report Share Posted April 25, 2019 Aftermarket replacement distributors have a very bad reputation for being "junk right out of the box". I don't know what that means, but a lot of guys won't even touch them. Your distributor could probably benefit from a peek at the timing curve. On a KA with duals, you are going to want way more than the factory spec'd 3 degrees at idle. Somewhere around 10-13 at idle is going to help, but then you need to make sure your timing doesn't go over 32 degrees at max. Then, the speed at which the timing advances off idle could use some adjusting too. This process is called "recurving a distributor" and can make massive improvements on an engine such as yours. Maybe your tuning guy can help you do this. 2 Quote Link to comment
alexg89 Posted April 25, 2019 Author Report Share Posted April 25, 2019 6 minutes ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said: Aftermarket replacement distributors have a very bad reputation for being "junk right out of the box". I don't know what that means, but a lot of guys won't even touch them. Your distributor could probably benefit from a peek at the timing curve. On a KA with duals, you are going to want way more than the factory spec'd 3 degrees at idle. Somewhere around 10-13 at idle is going to help, but then you need to make sure your timing doesn't go over 32 degrees at max. Then, the speed at which the timing advances off idle could use some adjusting too. This process is called "recurving a distributor" and can make massive improvements on an engine such as yours. Maybe your tuning guy can help you do this. I have it right around 10-13 .. my timing gun has the advance on it too so ill see if i can see what its doing when i rev it up.. i just have never done this so ill have to figure that out too If i could find a decent used one id stick it in there too and see what happens but thats probably slim to not happening lol 1 Quote Link to comment
alexg89 Posted April 25, 2019 Author Report Share Posted April 25, 2019 33 minutes ago, Crashtd420 said: At least you found someone to help.... you'll get it.... Im still skeptical .. hate having to bring people i dont know into what im doing and tune something i should be able to do .. and not knowing what this guy is all about sketches me out a little.. Id feel more comfortable if i had one of you guys here that iv chitchatted with help me lol 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted April 25, 2019 Report Share Posted April 25, 2019 You can also start with small jets and hand drill them out in small increments till you get your 'tune'. Yes I know drills are a poor way of making an accurate hole but it's the tune that matters not that the hole was slightly less than perfect. Probably a Z series EI distributor would work, and just use 4 of the 8 plug wires and one coil. Looks aren't important right now. 1 Quote Link to comment
alexg89 Posted April 25, 2019 Author Report Share Posted April 25, 2019 1 minute ago, datzenmike said: Probably a Z series EI distributor would work, and just use 4 of the 8 plug wires and one coil. Looks aren't important right now. You wanna lead me to water here.. like z24? z22 ? part number i could look up possibly 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted April 25, 2019 Report Share Posted April 25, 2019 (edited) 22 minutes ago, alexg89 said: Im still skeptical .. hate having to bring people i dont know into what im doing and tune something i should be able to do .. and not knowing what this guy is all about sketches me out a little.. Id feel more comfortable if i had one of you guys here that iv chitchatted with help me lol I know what you mean.... that's why I'm doing it like I am..... I'll use the dyno as a final check.... There is also something out there called color tuning.... Might be an option..... Edited April 25, 2019 by Crashtd420 2 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted April 25, 2019 Report Share Posted April 25, 2019 Any Z20/Z22 or Z24 from the 720 or the Z22 from the 200sx. The Z20 from the 200sx is almost exactly the same as the L20B EI 4 plug wire matchbox. 1 Quote Link to comment
alexg89 Posted April 25, 2019 Author Report Share Posted April 25, 2019 Just now, datzenmike said: The Z20 from the 200sx is almost exactly the same as the L20B EI 4 plug wire matchbox. Good to know and Crashtd420 ill have to look into that .. never heard of it 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted April 25, 2019 Report Share Posted April 25, 2019 7 minutes ago, datzenmike said: You can also start with small jets and hand drill them out in small increments till you get your 'tune'. Yes I know drills are a poor way of making an accurate hole but it's the tune that matters not that the hole was slightly less than perfect. I have been doing this .. I bought some drills and smaller jets just for that reason.... i have even been experimenting with the idle jets, and the air bleed hole..... Of course now I want one of my smaller mains that I drilled out.... yes you can solder them closed and restart but that makes me nervous..... 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted April 25, 2019 Report Share Posted April 25, 2019 2 minutes ago, alexg89 said: Good to know and Crashtd420 ill have to look into that .. never heard of it I came across it before working on motorcycles... make sure you get the correct spark plug size if you decide to buy.... I saw they sell 12 and 14mm.... I think the kit I had had both in it.... 2 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted April 25, 2019 Report Share Posted April 25, 2019 Fixed one of the pics.... 1 Quote Link to comment
alexg89 Posted April 25, 2019 Author Report Share Posted April 25, 2019 35 minutes ago, Crashtd420 said: I came across it before working on motorcycles... make sure you get the correct spark plug size if you decide to buy.... I saw they sell 12 and 14mm.... I think the kit I had had both in it.... I just bought one.. will be here tomorrow lol 1 1 Quote Link to comment
alexg89 Posted April 25, 2019 Author Report Share Posted April 25, 2019 heres the rest of the plugs In order L-R 2,3,4 1 Quote Link to comment
alexg89 Posted April 26, 2019 Author Report Share Posted April 26, 2019 So i was fooling around with it last night. Throttle bracket i made isnt gonna cut it because its throwing them out of sync.. so i ordered the correct top mount pull set up.. Also timing wise.. lol youll get a kick out of this.. At idle its set at 30* .. runs perfect .. fattened it up a little more because transitions werent smooth and it would stumble and flatten out with just a hair and i mean a hair of throttle... now it seems like it runs way better, did a cold start this morning and fired right off and didnt pop, miss, or act up Color tunner thingy will be here today .. maybe ill fool around with that and see what i can figure out.. but i think she likes been fat and have all the timing 2 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted April 26, 2019 Report Share Posted April 26, 2019 19 hours ago, alexg89 said: heres the rest of the plugs In order L-R 2,3,4 Four looks a little lean... 1 Quote Link to comment
alexg89 Posted April 26, 2019 Author Report Share Posted April 26, 2019 1 hour ago, datzenmike said: Four looks a little lean... This is because the throttle linkage i had was hooked up to the back of the carb .. and it was coming out of sync with the rest.. i have since fixed this.. mentioned that in the comment above yours .. think we commented at the same time lol 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted April 26, 2019 Report Share Posted April 26, 2019 1 hour ago, alexg89 said: So i was fooling around with it last night. Throttle bracket i made isnt gonna cut it because its throwing them out of sync.. so i ordered the correct top mount pull set up.. Also timing wise.. lol youll get a kick out of this.. At idle its set at 30* .. runs perfect .. fattened it up a little more because transitions werent smooth and it would stumble and flatten out with just a hair and i mean a hair of throttle... now it seems like it runs way better, did a cold start this morning and fired right off and didnt pop, miss, or act up Color tunner thingy will be here today .. maybe ill fool around with that and see what i can figure out.. but i think she likes been fat and have all the timing Idle Timing at 30btc?.... what does it show at 3000 rpm? You should be at almost 50 at that point... something doesnt seem right... Is it possible your top dead center was wrong when you put the distributor in and set the firing order? Basically I'm thinking as if you were 1 tooth off on the spindle drive or something that the extra timing is getting it more in sync.... I dont think I'm explaining myself correctly..... I guess I'm saying you might wanna verify top dead center on piston 1, and then make sure the rotor is in fact point to plug wire 1..... 1 Quote Link to comment
alexg89 Posted April 26, 2019 Author Report Share Posted April 26, 2019 Just now, Crashtd420 said: Idle Timing at 30btc?.... what does it show at 3000 rpm? You should be at almost 50 at that point... something doesnt seem right... Is it possible your top dead center was wrong when you put the distributor in and set the firing order? Basically I'm thinking as if you were 1 tooth off on the spindle drive or something that the extra timing is getting it more in sync.... I dont think I'm explaining myself correctly..... I guess I'm saying you might wanna verify top dead center on piston 1, and then make sure the rotor is in fact point to plug wire 1..... I thought about this When i did my timing chain a few years back i may have had it 1 tooth off .. had to have it advanced all the way for it to run correctly .. you may be on to something here 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted April 26, 2019 Report Share Posted April 26, 2019 Cam timing is in no way connected to ignition timing on a KA24E or Z or L series.. If the mark on the pulley and the timing scale is correctly placed... timing is timing no matter where you set the distributor. If it runs perfect at 30 then the pulley is wrong or the timing scale is wrong or the timing light is set wrong. I don't think it would idle at 30. 2 Quote Link to comment
alexg89 Posted April 26, 2019 Author Report Share Posted April 26, 2019 6 minutes ago, datzenmike said: Cam timing is in no way connected to ignition timing on a KA24E or Z or L series.. If the mark on the pulley and the timing scale is correctly placed... timing is timing no matter where you set the distributor. If it runs perfect at 30 then the pulley is wrong or the timing scale is wrong or the timing light is set wrong. I don't think it would idle at 30. I mean when i put the pump shaft in i think it was a tooth off.. not the timing chain .. should have specified 1 Quote Link to comment
alexg89 Posted April 26, 2019 Author Report Share Posted April 26, 2019 (edited) well now wait a second.. i had it off a tooth retarded.. it shouldnt be advanced as much as it is... so i dont know what the hell the deal is Edited April 26, 2019 by alexg89 1 Quote Link to comment
alexg89 Posted April 26, 2019 Author Report Share Posted April 26, 2019 and now that i think about it even more.. my distributor doesn't have to be in any particular way being its on a set screw and i can turn it where ever i have to ... so technically the pump shaft doesn't have to even be lined up 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted April 26, 2019 Report Share Posted April 26, 2019 1 hour ago, alexg89 said: and now that i think about it even more.. my distributor doesn't have to be in any particular way being its on a set screw and i can turn it where ever i have to ... so technically the pump shaft doesn't have to even be lined up Did you check tdc by the piston or pulley mark? I'm not really sure or not if I'm explaining what's in my head correct or not or if it's even valid..... But like Mike said something is wrong.... If it was me I would just go back and recheck... Tdc, vs the pulley and the rotor to the spark plug.. I guess my thought is say at 15 you were actually at zero, so 30 might only be 15, which puts the piston in the correct position to fire the spark..... 1 Quote Link to comment
alexg89 Posted April 26, 2019 Author Report Share Posted April 26, 2019 (edited) 10 minutes ago, Crashtd420 said: Did you check tdc by the piston or pulley mark? I'm not really sure or not if I'm explaining what's in my head correct or not or if it's even valid..... But like Mike said something is wrong.... If it was me I would just go back and recheck... Tdc, vs the pulley and the rotor to the spark plug.. I guess my thought is say at 15 you were actually at zero, so 30 might only be 15, which puts the piston in the correct position to fire the spark..... Well i know this much, From left to right on the crank pulley it has little has marks -5,0,5,10,15,20 and mine is passed it .. here is a picture that i put marks on showing where it sits .. not sure if you can see them, but even if it was advanced a tooth or retarded a tooth on the oi lpump shaft when you put it in .. its still shouldnt matter becuase i can turn my dizzy 360* in a circle and it shouls still read, correct?? and where i have it set is the little purple line Edited April 26, 2019 by alexg89 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted April 26, 2019 Report Share Posted April 26, 2019 Yes your right about the distributor, but that's not really what I'm saying..... I'm thinking your tdc vs the pulley mark may be wrong.... Maybe the pointer got bent, put back wrong or you have the wrong pulley... Have you verified the piston is truly at tdc on the compression stock vs the zero mark on the pulley? Quote Link to comment
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