Jump to content
alexg89

KA with sidedrafts

Recommended Posts

Aftermarket replacement distributors have a very bad reputation for being "junk right out of the box". I don't know what that means, but a lot of guys won't even touch them.

 

Your distributor could probably benefit from a peek at the timing curve. On a KA with duals, you are going to want way more than the factory spec'd 3 degrees at idle. Somewhere around 10-13 at idle is going to help, but then you need to make sure your timing doesn't go over 32 degrees at max. Then, the speed at which the timing advances off idle could use some adjusting too. This process is called "recurving a distributor" and can make massive improvements on an engine such as yours.

 

Maybe your tuning guy can help you do this.

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
6 minutes ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

Aftermarket replacement distributors have a very bad reputation for being "junk right out of the box". I don't know what that means, but a lot of guys won't even touch them.

 

Your distributor could probably benefit from a peek at the timing curve. On a KA with duals, you are going to want way more than the factory spec'd 3 degrees at idle. Somewhere around 10-13 at idle is going to help, but then you need to make sure your timing doesn't go over 32 degrees at max. Then, the speed at which the timing advances off idle could use some adjusting too. This process is called "recurving a distributor" and can make massive improvements on an engine such as yours.

 

Maybe your tuning guy can help you do this.

 

I have it right around 10-13 .. my timing gun has the advance on it too so ill see if i can see what its doing when i rev it up.. i just have never done this so ill have to figure that out too

 

If i could find a decent used one id stick it in there too and see what happens but thats probably slim to not happening lol 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
33 minutes ago, Crashtd420 said:

At least you found someone to help.... you'll get it....

 

Im still skeptical .. hate having to bring people i dont know into what im doing and tune something i should be able to do .. and not knowing what this guy is all about sketches me out a little.. Id feel more comfortable if i had one of you guys here that iv chitchatted with help me lol 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post

You can also start with small jets and hand drill them out in small increments till you get your 'tune'.  Yes I know drills are a poor way of making an accurate hole but it's the tune that matters not that the hole was slightly less than perfect. 

 

Probably a Z series EI distributor would work, and just use 4 of the 8 plug wires and one coil. Looks aren't important right now.

 

 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
1 minute ago, datzenmike said:

Probably a Z series EI distributor would work, and just use 4 of the 8 plug wires and one coil. Looks aren't important right now.

 

 

You wanna lead me to water here.. like z24? z22 ? part number i could look up possibly 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
22 minutes ago, alexg89 said:

 

Im still skeptical .. hate having to bring people i dont know into what im doing and tune something i should be able to do .. and not knowing what this guy is all about sketches me out a little.. Id feel more comfortable if i had one of you guys here that iv chitchatted with help me lol 

I know what you mean.... that's why I'm doing it like I am..... I'll use the dyno as a final check.... 

 

There is also something out there called color tuning....

Screenshot-20190425-103626-Amazon-Shoppi

 

Screenshot-20190425-103632-Amazon-Shoppi

Might be an option.....

Edited by Crashtd420
  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post

Any Z20/Z22 or Z24 from the 720 or the Z22 from the 200sx. The Z20 from the 200sx is almost exactly the same as the L20B EI 4 plug wire matchbox.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Just now, datzenmike said:

The Z20 from the 200sx is almost exactly the same as the L20B EI 4 plug wire matchbox.

Good to know 

 

and Crashtd420

 ill have to look into that .. never heard of it 

 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
7 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

You can also start with small jets and hand drill them out in small increments till you get your 'tune'.  Yes I know drills are a poor way of making an accurate hole but it's the tune that matters not that the hole was slightly less than perfect. 

 

 

 

I have been doing this .. I bought some drills and smaller jets just for that reason.... i have even been experimenting with the idle jets, and the air bleed hole.....

Of course now I want one of my smaller mains that I drilled out.... yes you can solder them closed and restart but that makes me nervous..... 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
2 minutes ago, alexg89 said:

Good to know 

 

and Crashtd420

 ill have to look into that .. never heard of it 

 

I came across it before working on motorcycles... make sure you get the correct spark plug size if you decide to buy.... I saw they sell 12 and 14mm....

I think the kit I had had both in it....

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
35 minutes ago, Crashtd420 said:

I came across it before working on motorcycles... make sure you get the correct spark plug size if you decide to buy.... I saw they sell 12 and 14mm....

I think the kit I had had both in it....

 

I just bought one.. will be here tomorrow lol 

  • Like 1
  • Haha 1

Share this post


Link to post

So i was fooling around with it last night. Throttle bracket i made isnt gonna cut it because its throwing them out of sync.. so i ordered the correct top mount pull set up..

 

Also timing wise.. lol youll get a kick out of this.. At idle its set at 30* .. runs perfect .. fattened it up a little more because transitions werent smooth and it would stumble and flatten out with just a hair and i mean a hair of throttle... now it seems like it runs way better, did a cold start this morning and fired right off and didnt pop, miss, or act up 

 

Color tunner thingy will be here today .. maybe ill fool around with that and see what i can figure out.. but i think she likes been fat and have all the timing 

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
19 hours ago, alexg89 said:

heres the rest of the plugs 

In order L-R 2,3,4

9ApDbgd.jpg

 

 

Four looks a little lean...

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
1 hour ago, datzenmike said:

 

Four looks a little lean...

This is because the throttle linkage i had was hooked up to the back of the carb .. and it was coming out of sync with the rest.. i have since fixed this.. mentioned that in the comment above yours .. think we commented at the same time lol 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
1 hour ago, alexg89 said:

So i was fooling around with it last night. Throttle bracket i made isnt gonna cut it because its throwing them out of sync.. so i ordered the correct top mount pull set up..

 

Also timing wise.. lol youll get a kick out of this.. At idle its set at 30* .. runs perfect .. fattened it up a little more because transitions werent smooth and it would stumble and flatten out with just a hair and i mean a hair of throttle... now it seems like it runs way better, did a cold start this morning and fired right off and didnt pop, miss, or act up 

 

Color tunner thingy will be here today .. maybe ill fool around with that and see what i can figure out.. but i think she likes been fat and have all the timing 

Idle Timing at 30btc?....

what does it show at 3000 rpm? 

You should be at almost 50 at that point... something doesnt seem right...

Is it possible your top dead center was wrong when you put the distributor in and set the firing order?

 

Basically I'm thinking as if you were 1 tooth off on the spindle drive or something that the extra timing is getting it more in sync.... I dont think I'm explaining myself correctly..... 

 

I guess I'm saying you might wanna verify top dead center on piston 1, and then make sure the rotor is in fact point to plug wire 1..... 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Just now, Crashtd420 said:

Idle Timing at 30btc?....

what does it show at 3000 rpm? 

You should be at almost 50 at that point... something doesnt seem right...

Is it possible your top dead center was wrong when you put the distributor in and set the firing order?

 

Basically I'm thinking as if you were 1 tooth off on the spindle drive or something that the extra timing is getting it more in sync.... I dont think I'm explaining myself correctly..... 

 

I guess I'm saying you might wanna verify top dead center on piston 1, and then make sure the rotor is in fact point to plug wire 1..... 

I thought about this

 

When i did my timing chain a few years back i may have had it 1 tooth off .. had to have it advanced all the way for it to run correctly .. you may be on to something here 

 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post

Cam timing is in no way connected to ignition timing on a KA24E or Z or L series.. 

 

If the mark on the pulley and the timing scale is correctly placed... timing is timing no matter where you set the distributor. If it runs perfect at 30 then the pulley is  wrong or the timing scale is wrong or the timing light is set wrong. I don't think it would idle at 30.

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
6 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

Cam timing is in no way connected to ignition timing on a KA24E or Z or L series.. 

 

If the mark on the pulley and the timing scale is correctly placed... timing is timing no matter where you set the distributor. If it runs perfect at 30 then the pulley is  wrong or the timing scale is wrong or the timing light is set wrong. I don't think it would idle at 30.

 

I mean when i put the pump shaft in i think it was a tooth off.. not the timing chain .. should have specified 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post

well now wait a second.. i had it off a tooth retarded.. it shouldnt be advanced as much as it is... so i dont know what the hell the deal is 

Edited by alexg89
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post

and now that i think about it even more.. my distributor doesn't have to be in any particular way being its on a set screw and i can turn it where ever i have to ... so technically the pump shaft doesn't have to even be lined up 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
1 hour ago, alexg89 said:

and now that i think about it even more.. my distributor doesn't have to be in any particular way being its on a set screw and i can turn it where ever i have to ... so technically the pump shaft doesn't have to even be lined up 

 

Did you check tdc by the piston or pulley mark?

 

I'm not really sure or not if I'm explaining what's in my head correct or not or if it's even valid.....

 

But like Mike said something is wrong....

 

If it was me I would just go back and recheck...

Tdc, vs the pulley and the rotor to the spark plug.. 

 

I guess my thought is say at 15  you were actually at zero, so 30 might only be 15, which puts the piston in the correct position to fire the spark..... 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
10 minutes ago, Crashtd420 said:

 

Did you check tdc by the piston or pulley mark?

 

I'm not really sure or not if I'm explaining what's in my head correct or not or if it's even valid.....

 

But like Mike said something is wrong....

 

If it was me I would just go back and recheck...

Tdc, vs the pulley and the rotor to the spark plug.. 

 

I guess my thought is say at 15  you were actually at zero, so 30 might only be 15, which puts the piston in the correct position to fire the spark..... 

Well i know this much, From left to right on the crank pulley it has little has marks -5,0,5,10,15,20 and mine is passed it .. here is a picture that i put marks on showing where it sits .. not sure if you can see them, but even if it was advanced a tooth or retarded a tooth on the oi lpump shaft when you put it in .. its still shouldnt matter becuase i can turn my dizzy 360* in a circle and it shouls still read, correct?? and where i have it set is the little purple line 

u1z9QIM.png

 

Edited by alexg89

Share this post


Link to post

Yes your right about the distributor,  but that's not really what I'm saying.....

 

I'm thinking your tdc vs the pulley mark may be wrong.... 

Maybe the pointer got bent, put back wrong or you have the wrong pulley...

 

Have you verified the piston is truly at tdc on the compression stock vs the zero mark on the pulley?

Share this post


Link to post

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.