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KA with sidedrafts


alexg89

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11 minutes ago, Crashtd420 said:

What are the zero bypasses?

They sit in the bottom of the float bowl. It bypasses some of the fuel the accelerator pump fluid BACK to the float bowl, to self adjust the squirt based on how fast you hit the gas. The stock size is "50" or "55". so that means you would only get about 50-45% .. The 0 bypass allows 100% of squirt .. At least this is what Eric from Worldpac/redline explained  to me 

Edited by alexg89
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9 minutes ago, Crashtd420 said:

Oh on the pump jet..... is that the drain back ?

I have heard that helps..... 

Did you notice a benefit to using the zero bypass?

Was thinking I should look at that on mine too..... 

 

Also are you tuning by ear or with an air/fuel gauge?

Im going by ear currently .. i will eventually get an AFR but for now its gonna be checking plugs and going that route.. I got them balanced within half of a number on my syncrometer.. tonight im gonna up to the last jet, get some new plugs again, and play the wating game for a color

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8 minutes ago, alexg89 said:

They sit in the bottom of the float bowl. It bypasses some of the fuel the accelerator pump fluid BACK to the float bowl, to self adjust the squirt based on how fast you hit the gas. The stock size is "50" or "55". so that means you would only get about 50-45% .. The 0 bypass allows 100% of squirt .. At least this is what Eric from Worldpac/redline explained  to me 

Thanks Thats kind of what I thought.... I have read about it breafly and have not adjusted it at all.... i actually dont have any of those drain back jets....

Did you notice a difference with this change?

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1 minute ago, Crashtd420 said:

Thanks Thats kind of what I thought.... I have read about it breafly and have not adjusted it at all.... i actually dont have any of those drain back jets....

Did you notice a difference with this change?

To be honest idk .. i may stick the other ones in when its tuned and runs down the road.. but the guy from redline says he dosnt understand why weber puts anything in the carbs other then these 0 bypasses.. He said it gets rid of alot of flat-spots and bad transitions .. so i may just keep them in there and let the beat ride 

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1 hour ago, alexg89 said:

To be honest idk .. i may stick the other ones in when its tuned and runs down the road.. but the guy from redline says he dosnt understand why weber puts anything in the carbs other then these 0 bypasses.. He said it gets rid of alot of flat-spots and bad transitions .. so i may just keep them in there and let the beat ride 

Sounds good to me..... I'm very close on my tune but I do experience that dead spot....

 

Yes you can learn to drive a weber but I'd rather drive a tuned weber carb.....

 

I might just order 2 of the zero bypasses today and see what it does for me.... (only running a single 40dcoe).

I'll try to remember to report back the difference....

Thanks for the info.....

 

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3 minutes ago, Crashtd420 said:

Sounds good to me..... I'm very close on my tune but I do experience that dead spot....

 

Yes you can learn to drive a weber but I'd rather drive a tuned weber carb.....

 

I might just order 2 of the zero bypasses today and see what it does for me.... (only running a single 40dcoe).

I'll try to remember to report back the difference....

Thanks for the info.....

 

You will only need 1 bypass if you are running 1 carb .. they are on the bottom of the bowl on the back side 

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2 hours ago, alexg89 said:

You will only need 1 bypass if you are running 1 carb .. they are on the bottom of the bowl on the back side 

Glad you said that.... I was thinking since I had 2 pump jets I would have 2 drains..... I have not even looked at that part of the setup, it could have 4 and I wouldn't have known , so thanks ..  

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5 minutes ago, Crashtd420 said:

Glad you said that.... I was thinking since I had 2 pump jets I would have 2 drains..... I have not even looked at that part of the setup, it could have 4 and I wouldn't have known , so thanks ..  

number 18

2YzD9LM.png

 

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Alright so little more of an update.. I got a throttle bracket kinda jerry rigged up so i could drive around the block.

1. i think my butterflys are hangin up just a hair being my gaskets i made are coming in contact.. just enough for it not to set all the way back

2. in the driveway this thing runs like a champ, no misses no pops ect. But down the road its like it has a dead miss.. 

 

Ive gone up and down on idle jets trying to figure this out.. Ive read where the new style 45s the 152's are gonna have the mixture screws turned out about 2.5-3 turns instead of the older ones that are about 1.5 turns out .. and thats about where im at

 

Ive had timing set at what the book calls for the regular fuel injection at 3* btdc and ive tried it up to about 13* .. i cant get this thing dialed in to save my life 

 

maybe the Dizzy i bough has the wrong curve? would a match box be better then the electric style i bought CARDONE 31620

 

Any one have information on this??

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Found the mother load of all information on webers

http://240260280.com/Tech/Carbs/Weber/DCOE Theory Operation and Tuning.html?fbclid=IwAR3bKB-zxpPGcW9d-eDIXIXbYTejb5DIIIOP3EV3OqxpWLvaapuSrqMkh3g

If you ever make it to the bottom of the page, each and every weber book is available as a PDF online

 

I read through "the guide of tuning" and i may have found some valuable information

 

Come lunch time i believe i will be going back down the the stock 55s that came in the carb and may even stick the 60s in

I found out that the newer style 45s (151/152s) have a longer narrower mixture screw and it requires it to be turned out about 3 turns instead of the usual .5 -1 turn form the old short stubby style screws.. 

 

Will report back once i do this 

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23 hours ago, alexg89 said:

They sit in the bottom of the float bowl. It bypasses some of the fuel the accelerator pump fluid BACK to the float bowl, to self adjust the squirt based on how fast you hit the gas. The stock size is "50" or "55". so that means you would only get about 50-45% .. The 0 bypass allows 100% of squirt .. At least this is what Eric from Worldpac/redline explained  to me 

 

They save gas, that's all. The L series carbs have a built in leakage back to the fuel bowl. The slower you press the pedal (and most of the time you don't need it at all) the more time for the gas to leak back reducing the discharge volume. 

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Tuning is not always easy, or everyone would do it. Take your time and keep records of the changes you've made. Unfortunately, you're in lonesome territory here with a street driven KA with dual Webers.

 

You did mention the distributor curve. This is very important. Which distributor are you running?

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5 minutes ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

Tuning is not always easy, or everyone would do it. Take your time and keep records of the changes you've made. Unfortunately, you're in lonesome territory here with a street driven KA with dual Webers.

 

You did mention the distributor curve. This is very important. Which distributor are you running?

dizzy from a 78 200sx CARDONE 31620

it is electronic with vacuum advance 

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Also i got ahole of Redline and per the "idle cards" they have my carb came with the following

PART # CARB.                MAIN             A/C          IDLE         E/T       PUMP   BYPASS    CHOKE 
19600.060 45-DCOE 145-145        155-155 F855-F855 F16-F16    45-45      40      36-36

 

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6 hours ago, alexg89 said:

Stuck the 60s back in and i feel like it may be a little better but something is off.. just feels like the truck has so much more in it but i cant figure out how to get it .. mains maybe? im lost here 

Its possible the timing needs help, do you have vacuum hooked to it?

 

My honest opinion is get the wideband o2 and gauge setup... I think I said that before, but its exactly what you need... otherwise your guessing..... 

Reading plugs only gets you so far...

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Once the paycheck permits ill be buying a Innovate LC-1 wideband.

Id just like to get it Kosher enough to where i know i can drive it and it not blow up on the way to the dyno lol 

These is the number 1 plug i pulled last night.. gonna check the rest on my lunch.. need to get another set of plugs to run again.. ive mangaged my way back down to 60 jets .. im probably gonna stock the 55s back in that came with it and see what happens.. since i was adjusting and doing all kinds of changing trying to make up for the vacuum leaks i think i went way to fat on the jets

Trial and error .. like stoff said "Tuning is not always easy, or everyone would do it" lol

9nqKzzs.jpg

fbvyzys.jpg

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1 hour ago, alexg89 said:

Once the paycheck permits ill be buying a Innovate LC-1 wideband.

Id just like to get it Kosher enough to where i know i can drive it and it not blow up on the way to the dyno lol 

These is the number 1 plug i pulled last night.. gonna check the rest on my lunch.. need to get another set of plugs to run again.. ive mangaged my way back down to 60 jets .. im probably gonna stock the 55s back in that came with it and see what happens.. since i was adjusting and doing all kinds of changing trying to make up for the vacuum leaks i think i went way to fat on the jets

Trial and error .. like stoff said "Tuning is not always easy, or everyone would do it" lol

9nqKzzs.jpg

fbvyzys.jpg

 

I got one from innovative motorsports and was very happy with it..... 

Can you use the dyno shop to help get the tune better?

 

I hope to end up back on a dyno too, but for me no one has weber jets to play with so I'm trying to get it close and have some jets to play with when I show up..... 

 

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I spoke with a guy on a local Auto enthusiast face book page.. Guy down the road about 45mins in palm bay with Trick Pro Motor sports said bring it down and he should be able to help out

So i have my fingers crossed .. im trying to get it close enough myself so half way there i can pull off the road and check the plugs and see where i stand lol 

 

Ive been stressing out here.. wanted to get the truck ready for formula drift this weekend in Orlando but seems i wont be driving this out there 

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