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alexg89

KA with sidedrafts

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On 4/9/2019 at 9:42 PM, scooter said:

Fuck these things they just crack and fall off then your tune goes to shit

There are so many reasons I don't like to use the o-ring style soft mounts, but nobody seems to listen when I recommend the OEM style vulcanized rubber mounts. Yeah, they aren't super easy to source, but they last forever and do the job well.

 

Painter_Man_2300_Small_002_zps6pyofkiu.j

 

Roadster_Isolator_2.jpg

 

Roadster_Carb_Isolator.jpg

 

I use them whenever I can, like on these setups.

 

Mikuni_Linkage_Small_04.jpg

 

IMG_3084Small.jpg

 

Painter_Man_2300_Small_018_zpsmp4unsda.j

 

 

 

 

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16 minutes ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

There are so many reasons I don't like to use the o-ring style soft mounts, but nobody seems to listen when I recommend the OEM style vulcanized rubber mounts. Yeah, they aren't super easy to source, but they last forever and do the job well.

 

 

 

 

 

Roadster_Carb_Isolator.jpg

 

I use them whenever I can, like on these setups.

 

 

 

had i known about these.. i would have got them.. now that i see what i need ill be buying them .. i didnt like they way it mounted with the oring style 

Im glad you posted the part number for them too.. I really do appreciate it

 

 

 

 

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Ran into an issue.. was popping back through the intake.. sprayed some brake parts cleaner around intake and its leaking at the head .. took intake off and it's not exactly flat .. against a piece if glass it has just a hair bit of wobble ... so little bit of a set back 

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Yeah, I could hear that popping in your video. Sounded like carbs out of balance...

 

Note that you will have to slot the manifold to fit the roadster isolators. You can see in the pics that the studs aren't the same spacing on both sides of the isolator. Nissan used to sell non-offset isolators, but they are no longer available.

 

I cut the isolators in a lathe to soften them up. Like this -

Painter_Man_2300_Small_014_zpsadujwk1r.j

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9 hours ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

Yeah, I could hear that popping in your video. Sounded like carbs out of balance...

 

 

 

 

Yah when i put the little tool on to see where they were, they were way out .. but i followed the instructions http://www.redlineweber.com/html/Tech/dcoe_adjustment_layout_typical_i.htm

 

and it was still carrying on .. sprayed the brake parts cleaner and idle went up on a few runners.. so my buddy is taking it to his shop today to True it up and get it flat 

Edited by alexg89

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So tonight when i get this all back together and get the Synchrometer on this thing, what is the target number to get to .. ive seen alot of youtube things and its always about 4.. but you guys are the experts lol 

 

Thank you 

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23 minutes ago, alexg89 said:

So tonight when i get this all back together and get the Synchrometer on this thing, what is the target number to get to .. ive seen alot of youtube things and its always about 4.. but you guys are the experts lol 

 

Thank you 

And to add to this.. fuel pressure.. I have at about 6lbs .. is that to much? 

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Got the intake fixed.. now the soft mounts are leaking .. fuck this thing lol 

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23 hours ago, alexg89 said:

And to add to this.. fuel pressure.. I have at about 6lbs .. is that to much? 

Webers tend to like 3.5lbs.... I had 6 to 7 on mine and I caused an over rich condition....... I know some dont like them but Holley does make a nice lower preassure regulator.... I can find the part number if you want....

Edited by Crashtd420

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23 hours ago, alexg89 said:

So tonight when i get this all back together and get the Synchrometer on this thing, what is the target number to get to .. ive seen alot of youtube things and its always about 4.. but you guys are the experts lol 

 

Thank you 

So shoot for 4 then... its more important that they are all equal.....

I know when I balanced my single I brought the lower up to the higher....

You might find you cant go any lower with 1, just balance accordingly..... 

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On 4/13/2019 at 3:03 PM, Crashtd420 said:

Webers tend to like 3.5lbs.... I had 6 to 7 on mine and I caused an over rich condition....... I know some dont like them but Holley does make a nice lower preassure regulator.... I can find the part number if you want....

 

I have a good pressure regulator, its an aeromotive 13301.. super easy to use and adjust .. 

 

Didnt mess with it to much this weekend though because i cant get the damn thing to seal and its leaking air somewhere.. Almost looks like my hardware is in at an angle..

flange and carbs dont seem like they match? i either need to get different hardware or slot the holes a little to make it work

 

Gonna pull it off tonight and tinker with it 

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picked up the header and valve cover today on my lunch

Silver looks great on the header and im gonna wet sand the fins and nissan logo on the valve cover 

LIhRSTl.jpg

 

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4 hours ago, alexg89 said:

.Almost looks like my hardware is in at an angle..

flange and carbs dont seem like they match? i either need to get different hardware or slot the holes a little to make it work

Are you talking about the rubber soft mounts? Did you get them already?

 

Yes, the two studs on the back of each isolator have a wider bolt pattern. You will need to slot the manifold. Do you know anyone with a mill? Super easy to do on a mill.

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1 hour ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

Are you talking about the rubber soft mounts? Did you get them already?

 

Yes, the two studs on the back of each isolator have a wider bolt pattern. You will need to slot the manifold. Do you know anyone with a mill? Super easy to do on a mill.

 

 

I have the oring soft mounts 99005.145 

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On 4/11/2019 at 9:16 AM, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

There are so many reasons I don't like to use the o-ring style soft mounts, but nobody seems to listen when I recommend the OEM style vulcanized rubber mounts. Yeah, they aren't super easy to source, but they last forever and do the job well.

 

Painter_Man_2300_Small_002_zps6pyofkiu.j

 

Roadster_Isolator_2.jpg

 

Roadster_Carb_Isolator.jpg

 

I use them whenever I can, like on these setups.

 

Mikuni_Linkage_Small_04.jpg

 

IMG_3084Small.jpg

 

Painter_Man_2300_Small_018_zpsmp4unsda.j

 

 

 

 

 Its the thackery washers that redline gives you with a cannon intake that are poop. Those rubber insulators are good. When my plastic o ring holders die ill be switching to those.

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So while waiting for the other side of the intake to be machined flat i decided to scoop up the volvo steering pump.. all went together well 

 

wiring is still a mess because it was just for testing purposes .. but i know it works now and the steering is like butter.

Just gotta get the bigger alternator to support the amp draw 

ZpsxtBG.jpg

gVZ8eMN.jpg

 

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Alright so power steering is hooked up and works great.. but its kinda in the way with the carbs.. so may have to find another place for it

 

As for tuning, im a little stumped on this thing.. seems like it has a miss and i cant get it to idle without the idle set screw turned in quite a bit.. i have a video im gonna upload to show how its running.. I went with the next size up for the idle circuit to give it more fuel but i have no idea what im doing lol 

 

Is anyone aware of any guys with the KA and have done this.. id like to run some question by them about it like timing and spark plugs..

not sure if the fuel injection settings would be correct..  

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here is the clip i got this morning of it runing.. another weird thing is, if i rev it up, it seems like it takes for everrrrrr to rev back down.. its pretty strange 

 

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Do you know how to balance the carbs? With a single carb, you only need to adjust the idle speed and the idle mixture (for each barrel), but with duals, you also need to balance the two carbs at the linkage. That needs to be done first thing.

 

So to back track, set all the idle mixture screws at about the same, then start on the linkage balance. I don't use the balance tool, I just use my ears. If it is causing you lots of trouble, it may be easier to remove the setup from the head and look down each barrel for the tiny sliver of sunlight at the edges of the throttle plate. They should all show the same amount of light.

 

On a side note, I have noticed you using the outside throttle lever to rev it up. By using the outer arm to rev the engine, it is possible to twist a throttle shaft, as the twisting has to now through the one throttle shaft and onto the next. This is a lot of twisting force on the first throttle shaft. Centerpull setups pull on both throttle shafts in the center, between the carbs, for this reason. Though I doubt this is the problem you are having, it may be worth looking at (the sliver of light trick), and don't do it again. On a dual carb setup with centerpull linkage, you want to delete the outside idle screws and one of the inner screws, leaving only one idle adjustment screw in the middle (there should also be one on the linkage arm). You also need to make sure that you never put return springs on the outer lever arms, as this can also cause the shafts to twist.

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7 minutes ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

Do you know how to balance the carbs? With a single carb, you only need to adjust the idle speed and the idle mixture (for each barrel), but with duals, you also need to balance the two carbs at the linkage. That needs to be done first thing.

 

So to back track, set all the idle mixture screws at about the same, then start on the linkage balance. I don't use the balance tool, I just use my ears. If it is causing you lots of trouble, it may be easier to remove the setup from the head and look down each barrel for the tiny sliver of sunlight at the edges of the throttle plate. They should all show the same amount of light.

 

On a side note, I have noticed you using the outside throttle lever to rev it up. By using the outer arm to rev the engine, it is possible to twist a throttle shaft, as the twisting has to now through the one throttle shaft and onto the next. This is a lot of twisting force on the first throttle shaft. Centerpull setups pull on both throttle shafts in the center, between the carbs, for this reason. Though I doubt this is the problem you are having, it may be worth looking at (the sliver of light trick), and don't do it again. On a dual carb setup with centerpull linkage, you want to delete the outside idle screws and one of the inner screws, leaving only one idle adjustment screw in the middle (there should also be one on the linkage arm). You also need to make sure that you never put return springs on the outer lever arms, as this can also cause the shafts to twist.

 

 

Good info thank you .. ill be sure to work with the center set up for now on .. as for the balance between the 2 i cant get it to idle so i cant begin to do that.

The sunlight trick i could check out but i believe i got it super close .. i tried to set them before i put them together and i made sure that the linkage between the 2 didnt pull one one way vs the other .. buuuttttt ill go back over it for sure. 

 

As for jetting size i dont presume you would have any knowledge as to which way i should go do you ?

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I forgot to add i changed the plugs out today on my lunch they are pretty old so we shall see what the new ones look like after some time  

QsY91oS.jpg

 

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Im so close.. I fattened it up alot and boy what a difference .. will get yall a video here shortly .. nice cold start from this morning .. shes gonna need a little more fuel so  i have to go to the next size up but i think i got this bastard finally 

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Carbs came with 55f8s in it .. i have the 65f8 in them now.. tonight ill stuff the 70s in and run the mixture screws back in a little 

I put the zero bypasses in also 

will keep updated 

 

L1I4mDB.jpg

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1 hour ago, alexg89 said:

Carbs came with 55f8s in it .. i have the 65f8 in them now.. tonight ill stuff the 70s in and run the mixture screws back in a little 

I put the zero bypasses in also 

will keep updated 

 

L1I4mDB.jpg

What are the zero bypasses?

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