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alexg89

KA with sidedrafts

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47 minutes ago, Crashtd420 said:

I recently dropped my timing about 3 degrees,  and it made little difference to my air/fuel but made big improvements about how it runs....

I was getting random misfires and an occasional carb fart.... and now it's even easier to restart.... I am a little different because my L is sitting at 10.7 to 1 cr....

 

The point is I caused myself problems by increasing my timing.....

Maybe you wanna revisit that a bit more

And then go back to the jetting...

 

Do you have a smaller pump jet?

 

Might be a good idea to get the o2 moved to read all 4 cylinders also....

 

 

Where the timing is currently it runs the best.. i can drive it and its fine.. like i said though its from idle to the transition where the problem is..

Ive been able to make it run with the timing at 15 all the way to 30 .. and every single time i think its right it has that little hiccup at partial throttle so its go to be a different jet.. especially if im pig rich right now and its still leaning out on the gauge at transition .. its not spiking up to 19 but its going up to 14 from 9 or below

Like i said i was able to hide that problem with a fatter idle jet so i know fuel is the issue

 

I do not have a smaller pump jet though.. and i need to buy more jets i just dont know which ones to buy so i can trouble shoot 

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Well there is no problem with a 14 air/ fuel... that's not to lean..... 

 

I only mention the timing because I bumped mine up to 15 and had wierd issues....  I'm back to 12..... 

I did source better quality parts , wires coil, etc.... so It wasn't a waste of money but wasn't my issue....

 

I understand what your saying and actually I just looked this up...

I'm honestly surprised...it said 18 to 20 btdc for a 2.4 kade..... .. I kind of jumped on board about the timing thinking about my L motor.... 

 

 

 

 

 

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I don't know if you've said, but what is your fuel pressure set at? How are you regulating it?

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2 hours ago, alexg89 said:

Ive got fuel pressure at about 3lbs 

Stroffgren I just asked that too....

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1 hour ago, Crashtd420 said:

I understand what your saying and actually I just looked this up...

I'm honestly surprised...it said 18 to 20 btdc for a 2.4 kade..... .. I kind of jumped on board about the timing thinking about my L motor.... 

 

 

 

 

 

Hard to believe.. i mean im not a total idiot when it comes to working on stuff but i know when something likes 1 thing vs the other lmao


and im not running a vacuum advance .. it stays happy between 15-30 

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Just now, alexg89 said:

Hard to believe.. i mean im not a total idiot when it comes to working on stuff but i know when something likes 1 thing vs the other lmao


and im not running a vacuum advance .. it stays happy between 15-30 

I get what your saying....  

I would keep it around 18 then.... you still get mechanical advance at higher rpm so that's something to keep in mind.... 

Atleast we can leave you alone about the timing now..  .

Back to jetting......

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12 minutes ago, Crashtd420 said:

Atleast we can leave you alone about the timing now..  .

Back to jetting......

Thank GOD lol 

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so after reading this whole thing, I think you need to go to a 70f8 jet and turn your needles in. the idle jets do both the progression and idle. to fix your idle, turn your idle needles in till max rpm and back them out 1/4-1/2 turn ish. you need to get rich enough on 15-20% throttle that its not popping back through the carbs... it would be nice to get close to stoch in light throttle but you can pretty much forget about that. the best luck with my side drafts has been running 12.5:1-13:1 afrs throughout the range, including idle.

 

if slow press to 15% throttle results in surging or popping you need to go up on the idles. you can try changing F numbers as well. if it doesnt sound crisp and its blubbery and has black plugs then go down, but you shouldnt get carb backfires from being too rich.

 

 

i think it needs bigger mains as well. how is it WFO from lowish rpm (2500) to redline? i could see a 160 main and 190 air corrector being very close... depending on your altitude.

there could be a whole thing started with emulsion tubes as well. considering the size of it and the ve% of a ka vs an L it may be beneficial to go to F2 emulsion tubes.

 

I wonder what it would it be like if you locked the dizzy too (peak timing all the time)

 

your second video sounds great. keep it up. buy the big kit from redline. be the butt dyno, you should be able to tell a difference in a single size jet change. 

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On 5/24/2019 at 12:55 AM, scooter said:

so after reading this whole thing, I think you need to go to a 70f8 jet and turn your needles in. the idle jets do both the progression and idle. to fix your idle, turn your idle needles in till max rpm and back them out 1/4-1/2 turn ish. you need to get rich enough on 15-20% throttle that its not popping back through the carbs... it would be nice to get close to stoch in light throttle but you can pretty much forget about that. the best luck with my side drafts has been running 12.5:1-13:1 afrs throughout the range, including idle.

 

if slow press to 15% throttle results in surging or popping you need to go up on the idles. you can try changing F numbers as well. if it doesnt sound crisp and its blubbery and has black plugs then go down, but you shouldnt get carb backfires from being too rich.

 

 

i think it needs bigger mains as well. how is it WFO from lowish rpm (2500) to redline? i could see a 160 main and 190 air corrector being very close... depending on your altitude.

there could be a whole thing started with emulsion tubes as well. considering the size of it and the ve% of a ka vs an L it may be beneficial to go to F2 emulsion tubes.

 

I wonder what it would it be like if you locked the dizzy too (peak timing all the time)

 

your second video sounds great. keep it up. buy the big kit from redline. be the butt dyno, you should be able to tell a difference in a single size jet change. 

Thank you sir, trucks been on the back burner a little but i will be buying the stuff you said.. Ive read and read and read the weber tuning book stuff and what you said pretty much matches but in a more understanding way lol

 

 

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On 5/20/2019 at 9:54 AM, Crashtd420 said:

 

I noticed when I installed my zero drain back it richened things up so I went from a 60 to a 50.... 

 

 

Hows that going for you by the way .. any improvement 

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On 5/24/2019 at 12:55 AM, scooter said:

I think it needs bigger mains as well. how is it WFO from lowish rpm (2500) to redline? i could see a 160 main and 190 air corrector being very close... depending on your altitude.

there could be a whole thing started with emulsion tubes as well. considering the size of it and the ve% of a ka vs an L it may be beneficial to go to F2 emulsion tubes.

 

I wonder what it would it be like if you locked the dizzy too (peak timing all the time)

 

your second video sounds great. keep it up. buy the big kit from redline. be the butt dyno, you should be able to tell a difference in a single size jet change. 

 

So i ordered the F2 tubes today and ill see what they do .. as for altitude im at sea level here in sunny florida .. 

 

From 2500 and up it seems alright .. not sure if its just been a while from driving it but i feel like it has more in it but its pretty rich now the way i have it set up 

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Sea level means lots of air pressure so richer is better. My 710 had 99 primary jets, and make no mistake it ran well, but it's from Nevada with an average altitude of 5,000 feet. I tried a 112 from a '79 local truck and this made a really big difference, and if anything the mileage went up.

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14 hours ago, datzenmike said:

Sea level means lots of air pressure so richer is better. My 710 had 99 primary jets, and make no mistake it ran well, but it's from Nevada with an average altitude of 5,000 feet. I tried a 112 from a '79 local truck and this made a really big difference, and if anything the mileage went up.

well all i know is my mileage is crap and it still pops lol 

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20 hours ago, alexg89 said:

 

Hows that going for you by the way .. any improvement 

 

It did make improvements going to the zero drain, but Its hard to explain..... 

 

It did improved when I hit the throttle as long as I'm over about 2500rpm or so...

 

I do still have a slight transition lean spot, but not as bad.... little extra throttle and it goes away.... so I'm gonna try going up 1 on my idle jet.... 

 

But when I do that I also wanna drop my main jet 1 size and change my air correctors too.... 

 

Hopefully 3 changes at once wont bite me in the ass.... 

Unfortunately it's very much trial and error..... 

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So the main and air corrector didnt do what I thought..... but it did help balance out half throttle and wot on the highway my air/fuel stayed right around 13... 

 

But now I would go richer just off idle... so I actually went 1 down on my idle jet and opened my air fuel screw about half a turn..... and my transition got much better..... I'm staying pretty close to 13 all around..... 

 

All I can say is stick with it, I'll try to make suggestions if I can.....

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As one who understands the difficulty of carb tuning, it's great you two have struck up a working relationship. Both of you guys seem to be very diligent, and working together takes a huge load off the individual.

 

Congrats guys!

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So the F2s came in last night.. i think tonight im gonna put them in .. I have the 65f8 idles in and its just so rich it barley ever goes past 10 on the AFR guage and kinda masks the transition issue but its still there 

 

Im gonna stick the 60f8s back in with the new tubes and see what happens... 

 

Scooter you talk of a big kit from weber? you wouldn't have a part number do you?? 

Edited by alexg89
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Careful buying those kits.... look at what you have and what they are giving you.... I decided to just buy individual jets because the kits were not close to my needs..... 

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Standby ill take a pic of the kit i bought, idk the part number off hand but it was just the jet kit from redline for 2000-2500cc engines with dual dcoes

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12 hours ago, scooter said:

Standby ill take a pic of the kit i bought, idk the part number off hand but it was just the jet kit from redline for 2000-2500cc engines with dual dcoes

Good deal

I get a super good discount through worldpac/redline so hopefully it wont be to expensive 

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9 hours ago, alexg89 said:

Good deal

I get a super good discount through worldpac/redline so hopefully it wont be to expensive 

it was the 737-238 kit. i recall it wasnt really that much money, the emulsion tubes are a lil spendy though.

 

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If I'm not in a hurry, Ill get jets out of England, usually Burton Power. With exchange rate and shipping, its still less then can be had in the states, plus you can specify exactly what you want. They are the Summit Racing of England, but for sports cars. Mostly Ford 4cyl oriented, but if you can fab, its a treasure trove.

 

https://www.burtonpower.com/

Edited by docbainey
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Cool website. Those Europeans go crazy with their carb linkage setups. I understand the dual cables, but all those moving parts...? Seems like simpler is always better.

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So i got the F2s in on friday and it seemed to help out alot .. but still super rich.. the transition problem is almost gone but its just slightly there still.


As for air correctors im not sure what i should go to next ? and i think the mains are fine.. it does not seem to lean out at higher Rpms

 

guess its back to reading what these jets do lol 

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