Rat-a-tat-Dat's '79 720 rebirthing of 'Helios'

[datzenmike]

The colors are not something I would do, just not brave enough I guess, but glad to see it on someone else's truck. 👍

[Rat-a-tat-Dat]

Air filter sizing is limited to the year of production and design, so they're obsolete ( the rectangular air filter configuration ), unless obtainiumite is a thing?

Another option is to down size the brake booster diameter, and create a larger gap between the carburetor and the booster assembly.

 

 

 

[Rat-a-tat-Dat]

An easier option for sure because I've recently located one. Unfortunately this 45 year old booster will have internal deterioration of its diaphragm and seals, so a 

rebuild is in order.

I'll also have to modify the original pedestal for alignment and perfect fitment.

Noticeable difference where it mounts to the firewall and bolt pattern on the back of the booster.

. 

The extra air space I gained between both items is approximately two inches, more than enough room. 

[Charlie69]

Nice work!  Are you color blind?  LOL

[Rat-a-tat-Dat]

lol, when I was younger, I liked to decorate Easter eggs!

[Rat-a-tat-Dat]

Picked up my rebuilt booster today, brought it home and will now forge ahead with primer paint and choose the right colour to either accent or blend in with what I have already.

Some more thoughts about this truck were to 'christen' it with an authentic name, perhaps a subtle and strong name but with a background of meaningful insightfulness...."Helios" sounds about right. He's the Sun God, driving a golden chariot pulled by four steeds across the sky. Ok, so maybe the chariot is the truck and perhaps the four steeds are the cylinders in the engine but he was the representation of the sun. Right there, it implies reference to the insignia for the Rising Sun. I'm sold, so now I'll refer to this newly acclaimed truck as "Helios". Thank you very much! 

HELIOS

[Rat-a-tat-Dat]

Another encounter is the exhaust down pipe, after the manifold, to clear the transmission and torsion bar. I'm using the two-to-one down pipe configuration and the closeness of proximity is challenging. The best optimal and most acceptable route through this maze has a few too many bends for my liking, but hopefully in the near future I will be converting the front suspension and eliminating the torsion bar set up. Sorry for the picture quality, it was too dark and the auto focus was too slow.

If you can make out where the down pipe touches the transmission, you'll notice the wear marks on the paint. Just focus hard!

This is the area that I need to route my exhaust pipe through.

Time to be creative. If only I had a MIG welder...

[Rat-a-tat-Dat]

Created a mock up tool. I used the old exhaust heat exchanger accordion type tube ( from the exhaust manifold up to the air intake housing ) because it maintains the right curvature as required. Then I can modify the exhaust into an exact duplicate.

 

The angles are very complicated, despite what you are seeing in pics

 

Remember, I'll need to create two of these. Top over bottom and seam them into one

 

A radical bend initially before making a sideways S curve and then twisting up past the torsion bar before joining both of them together into one. I will be making a new plate and weld it all together, like the original for proper fitment. Still searching for the downpipes exhaust gasket.

 

Last leg of the down pipe runners before they are attached to existing exhaust

 

 

[Rat-a-tat-Dat]

Wow! Time flies when you're in a coma.

Summer's over and I hardly touched Helios. 

It's nice to have big plans but certain priorities shift good intentions.

Completed the long over due wiring, insulating, and drywalling of the garages interior so I can enjoy and carry over any summer project into the winter months.

Whew! No more drywall cluttering the much required space in the new 'shop' bay so now Helios has risen to the occasion ( set high on block platforms ) and ready for a modified exhaust system.

Plus, several other necessary detailed essentials.

Oh, my wonderful wife surprised me with a MIG welder for my birthday. Such a sweetheart and supporting love, a heartfelt thanks!

 

Sizing up a location to make the initial incision. 

A lame attempt at exhaust welding, may require a hellofa lot more practice!

Nothing a grinder can't fix, lol.

New gasket showed up.

 

Stay tuned, once I figure out how this MIG works, some mod's will be in order.

[Rat-a-tat-Dat]

Draft table fabrication and work bench development for the twin DCOE carbs.

Heat shield fitment between carbs and exhaust mani.

 

I have designed this configuration to allow placement between carbs and the air filters plus an additional two mounting holes located on top of the exhaust mani. 

Question... Should the shield be mounted at both ends? What's the disadvantage if it is?

I've heard it's better to leave them hanging freely and only by the carbs. Is this factual or myth?

It seems to have enough flexibility that it couldn't interfere with vibration and light enough that it doesn't disrupt the carbs mounting design.

Any thoughts?

[Rat-a-tat-Dat]

Well, onward and upward. Carpi Diem!

 

Attached both carbs to the intake mani, plus the fabbed heat shield to both carbs, then mounted the air filter housings to carbs. The overall look is not too bad considering all the turmoil and vexation it took to get this far. 

 

 

The newer, smaller brake booster was instrumental in the adaptation of this configuration and I was relieved to find the proper air filter boxes, with the right sized filters and clips, of course.

 

 

An incredible increase in the much required space between the carbs and the booster indeed.

[Rat-a-tat-Dat]

I'm continuing to forge through all of these collective dark forces of misaligned continuities and prolonged denouement.

Still unscathed of perils and disconcertment, I shall press forward relentlessly in my quest to overcome any barrier or unforeseen obstacle. 

Hence, the adaptation of the fuel control management issue, concerning a throttle linkage modification.

 

 

The top of the bracket will be eliminated to appropriately convey a more visually aesthetic appearance.

 

 

The next item up on the agenda will be to continue with the fuel performance, i.e. fuel delivery status. 

[datzenmike]

7 hours ago, Rat-a-tat-Dat said:

I'm continuing to forge through all of these collective dark forces of misaligned continuities and prolonged denouement.

Still unscathed of perils and disconcertment, I shall press forward relentlessly in my quest to overcome any barrier or unforeseen obstacle. 

Hence, the adaptation of the fuel control management issue, concerning a throttle linkage modification.

 

 

 

 

[Rat-a-tat-Dat]

A picture is worth a thousand words.

 

Gibberish is as valuable as the paper ( you get the idea ) it was written on.

 

Context is the circumstances that form a statement, idea or terms that which can be understood. ie: pictures

 

Clarity is the quality of being coherent and intelligible. 

 

I can't read some doctors prescriptions but somehow they manage to get filled. Go figure!?

 

A desultory conveyance will be reciprocated by a perfunctory action. (to wit facetiously) 🧐😁

 

 

 

 

 

[Rat-a-tat-Dat]

Here on the first carb (closest to the firewall), I'm using these two holes (without screws) to fit the bottom bracket on. The  top hole, as seen in the photo, will require spacers to correct any unevenness in-between there carb and bracket.

 

 

Next photo is of the bottom bracket, which is mounted on top of the carb, using the bell crank brackets only two holes on the one side.

 

 

After some fabrication, paint and fitting, this top bracket mounts to the bottom bracket, followed by attaching the saddle (U-bolt) bracket holding the throttle cable into place. T/c is adjusted and fixed to the rocker lever on the central control shaft. Any slack is taken out of the cable and free movement is needed to ensure carbs are operating properly from stop to wide open and back again.

 

 

Next up, routing and installing the manual cable system.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Rat-a-tat-Dat]

Amused myself the other day with identifying a sleuth of possibilities to convey the perfect appeal and enhancement to the engine bay optics. ( I viewed several different options for the engine bay overall look ) 

Definitely going for the frugal and inexpensive route but also wanting it to be an awareness and attention factor.

 

The tri-colour scheme is pretty much the baseline I've started with ( purple sub frame, orange engine bay {maybe exterior too} and green drivetrain components ). Just trying to limit other colours and tones to help accentuate these initial colours.

 

Did you notice the accented tidbits throughout the engine... copper, silver and gold ( fools gold, lol ). Also, some bronze, aluminum and cadmium are incorperated but the chrome has been used sparingly and selectively. Not totally completed yet but with patience and time the outcome shall be reviewed.

 

Of course I strayed from this concatenation on several accounts ( i.e: blue exhaust ) but you've got to experiment to verify a theory, right?

 

Have an awesome day Ratsunites!

[Rat-a-tat-Dat]

Emotively moving along with attaching the newish additions to the vehicle are four analog gauges; oil psi, coolant temp, battery voltage and systems amp draw.

Acquired a heavy plastic object and proceeded to fabricate the necessary pieces for the face plate panels.

 

 

The centre console, in front of the gear shifter, has two pockets. The top one is blind and the bottom one is counter sunk, these will be utilized for the positioning of the gauges.

 

 

Once the two pieces were cut by using a jig saw, the melted plastic was released from the main plastic object and some finessing to all the edges trued these puppies up.

Measurement and placement of the mounting holes is important, you have little space available on each side of the console openings. 

Next was to locate the appropriate location of two gauges in each piece. Plus, the exact location of the mounting holes to be drilled through the face plates.

 

 

A 2 inch hole saw opened up the mounting plate enough to start the fitment process of the gauges. Manipulated the openings to accept each gauge housing was with a half round rasp file. Next step was to drill four holes, one in each corner of the mounting plates, to attach these two pieces to the console openings. Number 10 x #32 ( thread ) x  1 1/4"  machine screws were fitted. Once the holes were drilled, each one had been then counter sunk to a depth that just covered the head of the screws, this counter sunk opening is 3/8". 

 

 

A fitment mockup with the gauges installed.

 

 

On the back side of the console, the bottom openings were then addressed and two holes were 'drilled' out to accommodate the necessary depth of the gauges and to attain wiring accessibility.

 

 

As you can observe, the circles were cut by drilling holes repeatedly in the shape of a circle, to allow proper recess and gauge fitment.

 

 

These guys basically hold everything together. Screws up front and the 'well nuts' in behind.

 

 

After connecting the appropriate lead wires to the gauges, and testing the back lighting of each, it looked something like this.

 

 

As seen from the operators position.

 

[Rat-a-tat-Dat]

I'm picking away at the fundamental or ineradicable items that are essential to the engines performance and operation.

 

Here, I've altered a couple of primary functions on this engines atmospheric pipe and tubing methods. By salvaging a few original peripheral components I managed to incorporate them into a reformed method that kills two birds with one stone.

 

This Tee fitting helped mitigate both engine block PCV and valve cover breathing systems into one.

 

 

Situated this connector on the passenger side firewall. The lefthand hose was a salvaged item with two ninety degree offsets. An air filter was attached to the end of it, seen at bottom left corner of lower pic.

 

 

The centre fitting on tee accommodates a hose between it and the valve cover breather tube.

 

 

 

On the right side of the fitting, ( looking in picture ) a length of hose is required. It routes in behind the valve cover and firewall until it reaches a junction whereas the PVC is sandwiched in the middle, secured between both hoses. An elbow attaches to the remaining ( leftover ) hose. I joined these two together with just a short copper cut tube that fit perfectly inside each one and then connected this remaining hose to the engine ( PVC ) breather tube on the left side of the engine. This adaptation was easily routed because at each connection there is plenty of maneuverability to twist and adjust for inconsistencies.

Note: some modification was necessary to bend this tube straighter and create a more accurate fitment. It was very close to the carb heat shield, originally.

 

 

The only other additional piece to complete this contraption was a ninety degree, preformed elbow, with two hole size differences, one on each end. Viewed in the middle, at bottom of pic ( above ), just behind the brake booster. No part number, just an odd ball find in amongst my treasure chest, we all have one 😜

 

 

The final hose connection mated up with the pre-existing PVC tube, which had been modified by straightening.

Most of the hoses and clamps were collected from the previous carburetors configuration.

All my hoses are routed and ready for action!

[Rat-a-tat-Dat]

Regrettably little to report on Helios’ progress at this conjecture. 

 

Mainly sorting out the wiring to all the new analog gauges, to which was disconcerting, because after detaching the dash board panel I discovered the vehicles wiring harness had a few flaws.

 

Let me explain. 

A short time after purchasing the ‘80 truck, the original dash had been replaced with an ‘81 dash 

( better condition). 

You’d think their compatibility was unambiguous and compatible.

 

WRONG!

 

Minuscule discrepancies existed and created another time warp dilemma.

1) No proper connection for the instrument panel clock.

2) Radio multi pin plug crudely hacked and spliced.

3) Headlight ‘hi beam’ indicator light working in reverse, light constantly on in normal position.

4) A few mystery wires with connectors. Not found in wiring schematic.

5) And a fuse block from the original ‘80 build, ( The ‘81’s one would be immensely appreciated right about now ) W/O the extra fuse settings.

6) Need to incorporate Volts and Amp gauge into preexisting harnesses. If only I had a 4x4 dash package, aaah, so much easier. 

 

I digress, rewiring a couple of problematic points is relevant and inline fuses will adorn this build for 

an acceptable alternative.

 

Cheers

[Rat-a-tat-Dat]

Electrical was gradually inching along, until....

 

I've relied pathologically on the old dash harness to navigate through all the minuscule elements of concern.

 

From least vexing to the most enigmatic symptoms, the flicker is now a flame!

 

With a fire extinguisher in one hand and the ignition key switch being turned in the other, Helios started to breathe again. Albeit, the sleeping sun god didn't arouse easily. 

 

After a few minor tweaks and twiddles, fiddles and fidgets, swings and spins off the old screw driver, the beast was slowly titillated and tantalized to life.

 

Initially he was not a happy camper! But hibernation does cause some oscitantion behaviour. Help was on its way.

 

Once up skilled in the depths of side drafts and imbued their finer amalgamation symmetry, Helios has risen like a phoenix! 🔥

 

In the early stages I had considered the addition of an electric fuel pump, to which I can attest the idea was worthy but not thoroughly convincing. Hence, the old stand by mechanical edition, still delivering petroleum as its designated intent, once again adorns the cylinder head.

 

Carbs are performing beautifully! Reverberation and responsiveness is fantastic. Smileyface! 😊

 

Also, the aftermath of discharged substances under the engine required medium attention. Mostly from minor oil leaks, like at the valve cover gasket and the front cover access plate gasket, plus another at the coolant drain cock located in the rear of the block ( adaptive design for future coolant removal ).

 

Speaking of adaptive designs, the head lights have no warning system for being left on after the ignition key is removed. So I'm thinking of installing a buzzer or beeper that ties in with this wiring circuit. Shouldn't be too difficult, just need to identify the applicable wires.

 

Thumbs UP!

 

 

 

 

[Rat-a-tat-Dat]

An iota of things completed in the wiring department. Albeit mostly related to a lack of enthusiasm and the searching of one mysteriously hidden alarm. 

 

However, the objective was to install an audible reminder for when the lights had been left on and exiting the vehicle.

Accomplishing this little undertaking was hindered by vintage variables and prolonged rummaging.  

For one, replacement of the door switches themselves had its tribulations, plus the arduous struggle with carpeting manoeuvres and then articulating the appropriate location and attachment for the alarm itself seemed somewhat platitudinous.

 

All in all, adequate measures should be taken to route and hide the two ( 2 ) additional and different coloured wires required for this particular set up. 

SOooo...

 

Start by removing the centre console, then the passenger door sill cover plate. Now pull back the carpet under the passenger seat, starting at the right corner nearest to the seat front. This reveals the harness connector block that's under the seat. With the carpet now pulled back, travel the additional two wires underneath the passengers seat towards the trans tunnel, move wires up and over the seat mounting bracket, while still under the carpet follow the tunnel to someplace near the centre of the removed console. Awl a small hole and pull the wires through, nestle the alarm within this space at your discretion.

 

Method of connecting said alarm is quite easy; 

Firstly, locate and identify the RY (Red/Yellow) wire in the connector block, under the p/seat. Splice one of the coloured wires into this lead wire ( light switch is activated for 12v power ~ rear tail lights ) and then attach the other end of this selected wire to the (+) alarm terminal. 

Next, peel the carpet back at the rearward door jamb area until you see a 'Y' joint in this same harness, this routes to the door switch. Cut back some of this leads outer covering material and reveal three wires. Choose the RB (Red/Black) wire, this should be a powered circuit only when the           ( normally open ) door switch is activated. It's powered when a door is open causing the dome light to come on ( normally closed ). 

Splice the other coloured wire into this one and then attach its other end to the ( - ) of the alarm. 

 

That's it, test with the light switch on and either door open. Alarm should be activated and audible. With door(s) closed and light switch on, no noise.

Once light switch is turned off, normal door switch function to dome light will work.

 

TA, DA!

 

 

 

 

[Rat-a-tat-Dat]

All systems STOP!

 

Christmas, New Years, holidays and cold spells were contributing factors.

 

Minuscule efforts resulted in fractional developments, such as installation of an adaptive hood switch. Activates when engine bay hood is lifted, a row of LED's illuminate the engine bay for easier visual viewing (gr8 4 nite time). 

One additional item was to remove the rear step bumper and make ready to facilitate and provide the characteristics of the lighter OEM bumperettes. 

Another progressive step was to clean up the front bumpers inner surface. Over the past decades, its accumulation of road splatter, weather transitions and seasonal deposits, have played havoc on its beauty and metamorphosis. Plenty of elbow grease using man made products and patience, transformed its past into a presently acceptable condition.

 

Have plundered into an alternative to which the front valance is in question; a) Considering a spoiler effect that attaches to the existing panel, i.e: after market. b) Replacing the front valance with an OEM version of said effect from a year(s) that had these in common.  c) modify the front lower valance altogether. or d) Leave it original and boring.

 

Paint options are definitely an influence with any change or modification.

 

Also considering a higher decibel horn setup, plus newer headlights, possibly LED's or HID's. Will investigate options.

 

Happy New Year, RATS! (Chinese calendar)

 

 

 

 

[Rat-a-tat-Dat]

Ahh, the light is getting brighter! 

Nearing the end of the proverbial engine bay gallery.

Minuscule enhancement details pending but satisfied with present day showcase.

 

Here's my past and present integration of the engine bay.

 

One year later, more or less...

 

Engine display

 

 

Now for the next step. Picked up these upgrades. Need a cleansing but fitment is a no brainer. Salvaged from a '99 Isuzu Rodeo ST.

 

 

Have also started on the front portion of the truck, body work mostly. Minor repairs, aging plastic replacement and possibly another colour scheme, lol

[Rat-a-tat-Dat]

Fraught with images discerning 'the look' I'm after. I wound up envisioning a 'black out' proposition or a  'stealth' conception. Either may justify the transition I'm attempting to perform on the front bumper.

Before

 

Once the wrinkle was somewhat ironed out and most of the undesirable scale had been eliminated. This dramatically faulted chromium plated ornamentation requires a makeover.

Underside

[Rat-a-tat-Dat]

Snagged a pair of seat covers from the friends of cheep and unlimited parts supply company, your neighbourhood Pick&Pull.

 

 

Both have some history but once cleaned up and fitted, they'll protect what's underneath.

 

Interior could use a makeover too!       Like a new dash, a couple of door panel covers, new steering wheel and hell, put that steer column bottom cover back on.