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1984 z24 carb swap


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I might have a stupid question that i am sure has already been covered. bought my daughter  an 84 king cab that was supposed to have just been needing vacuum lines. looks like the motor has been swapped and alot of the emissions crap cut/removed. o2 sensor snipped close,multiple vacuum lines cut/plugged etc. looks like the carb thats on it is connected to the control module and electrically controlled itself. my question is there an easy way to eliminate emissions and change carbs to a simple set it and forget it carb? is the ignition controlled by vacuum? i see it looks like the weber carb is the popular swap. 32/36 i believe. the website has multiple weber 32/36 carbs, how do i know what one i need. sorry if i sound like i am rambling but i might have inhaled to many exhaust fumes.....

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Apparently there are a lot of Weber knock offs out there from China that are crap. Pierce Manifolds is supposed to still sell genuine Weber carburetors. Be sure to order one with an electric choke and an Idle cut solenoid.


A 32/36 Weber would be about right for your daughter. It will have a vacuum advance line that goes to the distributor. Really that's about all you need for it to run right.


The EGR can simply have the hose left off and it is disabled. Removal means a home made block off plate and plugging the SS line at the exhaust manifold. Not really worth the bother. 


If you cut the bottom off the air filter housing and fashion a plate to fit the Weber carb and you could keep the ATC automatic temperature control that feeds warmed air to the air filter snorkel. I imagine it gets cold in Wisconsin? This will prevent carb icing.


The AIS air injection system is a SS pipe from the exhaust coming to the front of the air filter to a one way valve. It uses exhaust pulses to gulp fresh filtered air into the exhaust for the catalytic converter to use. If it's connected and working it has zero effect on running and can be left. Otherwise you must pull the pipe off and seal the hole on the manifold.



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Make sure you get the 'kit' which includes adapters , gaskets, tiny air filter (although I recommend modifying the stock one and using that for next winter) etc. It's about $300 or just under. I don't recommend anything from e-Bay, go to the source.

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the carb that is on there seems to be running very rich, is there a chance that there is something wrong with the electric choke? will a new carb fix this or will i have similar problems with a new shiny carb.... before i order it.

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Take the air filter to off when engine warmed up and look. Choke flap should be perfectly vertical. It's fixable or adjustable.




Helps to have NGK (only run NGK) BPR6ES on the intake side and BPR5ES on the exhaust. If you have them, clean them up with a wire brush and take a plug wrench with you and take a 10 mile highway drive. Given the chance, plugs are self-cleaning and will show only the latest evidence of fuel mix. The harder you drive it the better. Find a place to pull over safely and pull some exhaust side plugs. Black dry and sooty is rich. Black wet fouled is probably burning oil. Going towards lighter is less rich.  Perfect is very light brown or creamy tan. A perfectly white insulator and no deposits is a dangerously lean mix.

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