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Parking lights work but low and high do not


jhaungs

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I’ve been all over this forum and others, thru the FSM, all sorts of testing switches/checking for voltage/examining wires, and I still haven’t found a conclusive reason why they don’t work. My fuses are all good and a brand new fuse box. Both high and low work when you apply direct voltage. The lighting relay continuity tests are as they should be, the light switch also has continuity and power, the dimmer switch located on the steering wheel is not testing like the FSM says it should, so I am at a point where I think that’s the problem but I’m wondering if there are other tests - using jumper wires/etc. to see if that’s the issue. I’m also having a hard time even locating that specific part online if it’s even  the problem (I search for dimmer switch and all that comes up is the turn signal switch). Any help y’all could offer would be greatly appreciated! 

I should also note, I’m not a whiz at electrical stuff, have limited knowledge, so it’s possible I’m doing it wrong. Lolz. 

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Alright. First power is supplied to ALL lamps when the headlamp switch is turned on.  The headlamp relay selects the ground to turn then on and has only 2 choices HI or LOW beams depending where the dimmer switch is set. So even if the hi/low switch is removed one or the other (hi or low) would stay on. In this case the default position is HI beams. So not the relay, not the dimmer switch.

 

The dimmer switch for selecting HI or LOW beams, IS the turn signal. Push it towards the dash for HI and pull towards you for LOW. You can even do this when it's on during a turn.

 

 

I doubt very much that power is even getting to the headlamps. Have a look through this similar problem... and remember that fuses are not to be trusted, and never to be trusted by looks...

 

https://ratsun.net/topic/75178-all-lights-working-but-my-headlights/

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Thanks for your quick reply. I’ll read through the link you provided. I know fuses have to be tested, which I did with a light tester and I also used my DMM and tested continuity across all of them. edit: I looked at your link, it’s one of the topics I read thru already, but I’m going to give it another shot. You know how the vortex of electrical crap sucks you in and next thing you know you think you’ve tried everything but maybe missed one simple step? I’m hoping this is my problem.... haha

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Well if you have a meter or test lamp, check the headlight Red/White stripe and the Red/Black stripe wires for 12 volt power. You said the head lamps worked if you put power to them so I have to assume the power is missing or not coming from the headlight switch or the fuse.

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