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marines2060

my 1974 dats

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9 hours ago, FrankRizzo said:

Cool gauges!

 

What are those? I'd like to try something like that!!

 

Thanks, gauges are from speedhut like you have in your ride!

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8 hours ago, Rat-a-tat-Dat said:

The gauges are sic.

I've changed my dash once and the replacement is now showing major stress too. Friggin UV's.

Wiring takes patience and time, but well worth the effort. Well done!

Does the Subaru alternator have a higher amperage output for your upgraded lighting?

Wow, looks like you may have brought home some castaways in that heater box.

That's disgusting, who crapped in your rad? A systems flush for sure.

 

Keep'er going...

Thanks! Wiring is a pain but as long as I get a couple of things done each weekend it'll go by fast. The alternator is 60 amp. There were plenty of options for more but I went with this because it has the same connector as stock and it's a direct swap, I didn't have to grind or modify anything.

 

The core was really gross, and when I changed hoses those were not great either so I'd like to do a full flush whenever I get more together.

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I like the speedhut gauges and the way they look. Do you have detailed pics of what you did to install them? It probably won't happen right away, but doing that gauge conversion is something I have been thinking about for a bit now.

 

Don

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8 minutes ago, 620slodat said:

I like the speedhut gauges and the way they look. Do you have detailed pics of what you did to install them? It probably won't happen right away, but doing that gauge conversion is something I have been thinking about for a bit now.

 

Don

I don't have pictures when installing them, but I can take some of the back. It's a pretty easy install for the dash bezel. I haven't gotten to complete the wiring part of them set. The gauge has a big lock ring type nut on the back and you just take that off slide it in the dash and out the lock ring back on again. 

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Thank you for the quick reply. That sounds like what i was hoping for. From the pictures I've seen it did appear that the Speedhut gauges had a screw on ring on the back, and it is good to know that the back of the Datsun bezel fits the gauges good. If it isn't very difficult for you pics of the back of the bezel with the gauges in place would be good. The wiring for the gauges shouldn't be very difficult. I'm not a wiring wizard, but if I have the time to build a mental picture first then wiring won't be real hard (I'm very vizually oriented). My 1994 Chevy pickup didn't have the wiring for power mirrors, and I added the wiring as close to original GM as possible (involved removing the dash).

 

Don

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On 4/14/2019 at 8:36 PM, FrankRizzo said:

Cool gauges!

 

What are those? I'd like to try something like that!!

 

Frank, You already have speed hut gauges.

 

 

 

Slodat. Franks post under 74 Cactus has some pics of installation of gauges

Edited by Farmer
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I just looked up the gauge install pics (pg 3, 14th post from the top, I don't have post numbers visible on my page on my computer). Thank you Farmer! Very good information there. Looks very easy. Does the 4th pic show the difference in reflection between the domed glass lens on the tach and the flat plastic lens on the speedometer? I am partial to glass as it won't scratch as easy as plastic, but there is a difference in reflectivity there. Maybe Frank will chime in and comment on the gauges. Also, the gas tank level sender was listed as 90-0 ohms which is good information.

 

By the way (slight turn away from the subject), where at in GP are you located? I spent 2 years there from the summer of 1971 to the summer of 1973. For the first few months I lived in town, then I moved out to Murphy. At the time Josephine County was one of the poorest/lowest wage counties in the state. Since then the town has changed and grown a lot.

 

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8 hours ago, 620slodat said:

I just looked up the gauge install pics (pg 3, 14th post from the top, I don't have post numbers visible on my page on my computer). Thank you Farmer! Very good information there. Looks very easy. Does the 4th pic show the difference in reflection between the domed glass lens on the tach and the flat plastic lens on the speedometer? I am partial to glass as it won't scratch as easy as plastic, but there is a difference in reflectivity there. Maybe Frank will chime in and comment on the gauges. Also, the gas tank level sender was listed as 90-0 ohms which is good information.

 

By the way (slight turn away from the subject), where at in GP are you located? I spent 2 years there from the summer of 1971 to the summer of 1973. For the first few months I lived in town, then I moved out to Murphy. At the time Josephine County was one of the poorest/lowest wage counties in the state. Since then the town has changed and grown a lot.

 

South West side 3 mile down Redwood Ave.  Still one of the poorest counties even with pot money. Rent and property high.

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Thank you for the reply. So you are somewhere between the community college and the end of the four lanes. Beautiful area. When I first moved there I was used to the open spaces of the Willamette Valley and didn't like the area, but it didn't take really long for it to grow on me. Good thing I didn't have the Datsun pickup at that time, I probably would have spent all my extra money, and then some more, on driving the area to get to know it (including the logging roads). Fuel mileage is why I am now SLOWLY building up the 1973 with a diesel motor, hoping to be able to afford spending a little more time on the roads in the state.

 

Don

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The downside to the speedhut gauges are the glare from the lens. The domed lens in almost unusable in bright sunlight because there is not much hood/shading in the stock 620 holes. The flat lens makes it a little better - but there is still some glare. They work great at night though!

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Love the smileys and gauges .. very nice touch. Great progress!  Future plans? 

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On 5/4/2019 at 9:00 PM, Racso_Dor said:

Love the smileys and gauges .. very nice touch. Great progress!  Future plans? 

Thanks rasco! 

 

Future plans are to do disc brake upgrades front and back, wheels when I do that. Tidy up the interior with some different seats. Then a crap ton of body work. Plan on painting it cool khaki grey, but that could change.

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Hi all, i am having trouble with wiring up my coil/coil resistor on the truck. Looking at the wiring diagram i am wondering and missing something that is going to the positive side of the coil. I am also not 100% sure about the configuration of the ignition tumbler and wires going to it. The original wiring harness was hacked up and sliced so many times i dont know what color is what in there. Same with the ignition tumble. I had everything wired up and went to start it and it cranks over which is good, but i have no spark when i pulled the spark plug and grounded it. in the picture below i have the new wiring routed 

the white wire is going to the negative of the coil and is for the tach that im putting in

the purple wire from the negative side of the coil is going to the distributor

the purple from the buttom of the resistor is a jumper from the resistor to the positive side of the coil (im getting 12v here when i have the key switched to the on position)

the pink wire is from the ignition that runs back to the tumbler and i have switched 12v power going to that. 

the light blue wire on top of the resistor is going straight back to the tumbler and is on one of the pins there (not sure about this one)

 

on the original diagram is shows 2 wires going to the positive side of the coil, what are those 2? when i follow them back they just go to the ignition switch but i haven't figured out what the are specifically for. 

 

thanks for the help!

 

IMG_20190521_160725_zpsukalc2is.jpg

 

IMG_20190521_160836_zpsbpwoo24x.jpg

 

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 One of the wires from the ignition is hot in the ON position and goes to one side of the resistor, the other side of the resistor goes to the positive side of the coil.

 

The second wire from the ignition is only hot in the START position and it also goes to the positive side of the coil.

 

It works like this...

During start a full 12 volts goes to the coil for better spark during the cranking of the engine. When the key returns to ON it is disconnected and only the voltage that is dropped to around 7-8 volts going through the resister gets to the positive side of the coil. Don't think about running the full 12 volts through the coil as it wil over heat and the points will burn out in as little as 50 miles.

 

The negative side of the coil is connected to the distributor and the points which make and break contact to ground to produce a spark.

 

 

Buy a $5 test lamp. It has a small 12 v light bulb and a length of wire with an alligator clip on one end and a sharp pointy probe. Clip one end to ground and touch the pointer to any wire and it will light up if there is power. 

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where the orginal wires go?

 

find the ON wire

find the 12 volt start wire.

 

ON wire . goes into the  IN side ballast and comes out ballast to the + side coil

Start wire. goes to the +side coil. or the out side of the ballast and then jumpered to the + side coil/

 

To find START  wire remove the starter wire so you don't engage starter.

 

 

this is for your set up with a point coil(higher ohm) and ballast

Edited by banzai510(hainz)
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Thanks for the responses guys, it helped out some. I did run the second wire just getting 12v on start, still no starting from the truck. When I was using my test lamp am I suppose to get power on the negitive side of the coil? I found that to be werid. I'm not very education on older electronic set ups. It could be possible that I have the wiring to the tumbler not correct. 

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That's somewhat normal..... 

 

Think about a light bulb if you connected directly to a battery...

Power on one side and ground on the other.... 

If you remove the ground wire from the battery that wire connected to the bulb that was just showing ground will now show power..... it back feeds through the bulb..... same is happening at the coil... its waiting for the negative trigger from the distributor....

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On 3/6/2019 at 9:30 AM, Charlie69 said:

Sweet truck!

scroll down on the page this link takes you to and you may down load the Factory service manual for your truck in pdf form.

 

David Murphy 620

 

Hey Charlie,

Any chance you have that service manual saved? Or any of the other ones saved. Some time last month, that site went down. I was able to print a copy by fate alone, lol, but apparently didn't save it anywhere. I've been looking... Wayback machine never archived that pdf.

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11 minutes ago, ducky said:

 

Hey Charlie,

Any chance you have that service manual saved? Or any of the other ones saved. Some time last month, that site went down. I was able to print a copy by fate alone, lol, but apparently didn't save it anywhere. I've been looking... Wayback machine never archived that pdf.

 

That sucks if that sight doesn't work anymore it really had some good info.... I have referenced that a bunch of time......

Couldnt find it either.... 

Maybe someone has a new link??

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