‘75 B-210 wheel and tire sizing

[Dguy210]

On 2/25/2019 at 8:05 PM, datzenmike said:

About adjusting the steering box...

 

Almost exclusively the most wear will be in the position it is driven in most which is straight ahead with less to each side. If you remove all the 'slop' in the center you are likely to have tight steering on turns. Now this could affect getting the wheel centered after a turn, it may jam and if not it will accelerate the wear to the sides and stress the box unnecessarily. 

 

If you adjust the box do it with the wheels off the ground and spin the steering wheel quickly lock to lock to check for any tight spots. When it does show signs, back your adjustment off slightly and check again. Don't forget to set the lock nut to hold the gear lash setting and check one more time. Most boxes take GL-4 but check your FSM for this.

 

Additional slop may be worn or less than perfectly adjusted  pre-load on the wheel bearings. Poor front end alignment can also cause you to see/saw the wheel when steering. Yes the idler arm bushings is another good one and of course the ball joints..

 

4 hours ago, Tom1200 said:

The KYBs from rockauto will work fine. I've actually used them on my race coupe.

 

Better would be get a set of Koni inserts, Classic Garage has them for $120 each. Couple that with some Koni Classics for the rear $100 each, you'll have to take some measurements as the B210 specific ones aren't available anymore. Check Datsun1200.com as the site has shock measurements and possible substitutes listed. $450 for dampers is a lot for a stockish car but it's worth it. Good shocks/dampers are one of the best upgrades you can do for any car.

 

Again the KYBs will work fine but I'd spring for the Koni dampers. 

 

Now as for your steering slop check the idler arm bushings these are the first things to wear out. Have someone move the steering wheel back and forth slowly, watch the idler arm in relation the the steering links. Obviously you can check the ball joints but I will tell you the ball joints have been on my race car for 25 years and they are still fine. 

 

On the 280ZX struts; they are popular for a reason. Being off a 3000lb car the components last forever. The only down side is the weight.

 

Per what Datzenmike says is correct. I actually did NOT adjust my steering box for this reason and that with the other bits replaced I didn't really feel like it needed to be messed with. However, I have also had the car for 20 years and I'm the second owner so I know what abuse it has been through and what maintenance it has had. 

 

I agree with Tom1200 I suspect the Idler arm is a large part of it for slop, I did my balljoints mostly as I was already under there replacing stuff and my boots were completely shot. 

 

If you get into to replacing major bits of your suspension I strongly suggest measuring the lengths of anything attached to a joint that is adjustable before you take it apart. I was lazy and just used a set of clamps to measure and then adjust the replaced pieces to the same length to get the adjustment in the right ballpark to do a realignment.

[JayDilla]

8 hours ago, Dguy210 said:

 

 

Per what Datzenmike says is correct. I actually did NOT adjust my steering box for this reason and that with the other bits replaced I didn't really feel like it needed to be messed with. However, I have also had the car for 20 years and I'm the second owner so I know what abuse it has been through and what maintenance it has had. 

 

I agree with Tom1200 I suspect the Idler arm is a large part of it for slop, I did my balljoints mostly as I was already under there replacing stuff and my boots were completely shot. 

 

If you get into to replacing major bits of your suspension I strongly suggest measuring the lengths of anything attached to a joint that is adjustable before you take it apart. I was lazy and just used a set of clamps to measure and then adjust the replaced pieces to the same length to get the adjustment in the right ballpark to do a realignment.

Awesome thanks guys. Was kind of my thought to just replace what I can while I have the car up and suspension pulled . Does sound like the idler arm is my main goal to get replaced though. As far as all the bushings and joints most the rubbers are all in rough shape from weathering and age. They all look dry and cracked so I’d definitely like to replace all that. May be able to clean/refurbish and reuse other parts depending on they’re conditions 

[mhub91]

For what it's worth... I decided to not go with 13s on my B. Tire sizes are shit. I went with 14x6.5 Colin Super Sharks with 165/55/14. Looks fuckin perfect with it slammed low.

[thatdirtykid]

Post up some pictures.

 

Something to keep in mind when sizing tires/wheels is that you can always gain a LITTLE fender clearance upfront when doing the 280zx front strut swap. the front track width narrows by about 10mm each side if I remember correctly.