Differences in my 720's I have noticed

[jagman]

I have pulled the manifolds from the junker 720 and am prepping for the engine removal but noticed that the air conditioning compressor is different than the one on my long bed.  In all other respects they are the same.  The long bed air system was fiddled so I will need to replace portions of the piping from the canister to the firewall anyway.  Can I use the KC junker system with no problem?  Are there any special  requirements for removing the automatic trans that us newbies should know before removal that would save time or multiple bruises?

Thank you for your expertise!!!

[Charlie69]

What year trucks are you working with and what engines and transmissions?

[jagman]

The std cab long bed is an 86 (BUILT 85) the kc is about the same year.  All I have is a vin on it 1N6ND06S4FC372089.

[Charlie69]

DATSUN/NISSAN TRUCK VIN NUMBER DECODER (1980-1986)

1N6ND06S4FC372089 -

1N6 - Nissan Motor Mfg. Corp., U.S.A., Smyrna, TN (Trucks)

N - 2.4L I4 (Z24) (1983.5-1986)

D – Truck

0 - No Model change

6 - King Cab

S - 2 wheel drive (2WD) - rear ABS

4 - Check Digit

F - 1985

C – Plant Code Smyrna, TN, USA

372089 - Serial Number

Japanese-made units start at serial no. 000101

USA-made units start at serial no. 300101

[jagman]

Thanks Charlie69 for the info.  I am trying to pull the engine on the KC with an auto.  All lines have been removed, all unbolted and the engine refuses to move more than 1/2 " forward.  Is there something else to be removed or should the torque converter slide out of or off the tranny shaft?  I have the mess supported for now but if anyone has removed an engine from an automatic I could use some help!

[Lockleaf]

Typically its difficult to extract the torque converter with the engine.  You should be able access the flywheel to TC mounting bolts and undo them.  Usually you have to do one at a time and rotate the engine to get the next one.  

 

Then be sure to seat the TC back into the trans fully before attempting to reinstall engine.

[Charlie69]

Do as Lockleaf suggested and remove the flex plate to torque convertor bolts. if you try to separate the engine with the torque convertor attached you risk damaging the front shaft and pump.  The torque convertor has approximately a 2" neck that is cogged into the pump.

[jagman]

This truck has a solid plate behind the engine limiting access to anything back there.  The only hole is where the starter resides.  I will look again to see if I can access the four bolts you mention and get back to you.  Thanks  Steve

[datzenmike]

The engine plate on a standard is one piece and covers the entire front of the flywheel. Automatic can have the bottom half removable OR there is a rubber plug covering an access hole to get at the back of the flex plate to unbolt the torque converter.

[Charlie69]

If there is a solid manual trans plate  look int the starter hole and slowly turn the engine crankshaft to line up the torque convertor bolts and try to get a box end wrench on the bolts to loosen them, the other option is to drop the trans being care to not damage the front pump.

[datzenmike]

I never thought of the starter hole but it would be a total BITCH to get them back in I bet. I have a 710 automatic engine plate. It had an oval rubber 'plug' (I lost it) but have the plate somewhere. It's how I separated the TC from the flex plate. I have another two part engine plate.

[Charlie69]

Are you going to keep the automatic in this truck?

[Charlie69]

If he can get the flex plate to torque convertor bolts out then he can modify the plate for a rubber plug by measuring, marking and drilling a hole with a hole saw.

 

This is a handy tool for removing crank bolts and other bolts that require the crankshaft to be held in place.

 

Flywheel holding tool

 

I use one of these tools on all my engines to hold the crank in place when necessary.

Edited February 9, 2019 by Charlie69

[jagman]

I don't plan to keep the automatic from the KC. My standard truck has a five speed.  I just want to pull this engine and rebuild it for the std.  I am lucky the KC has other bits that I need  such as an unbodged air conditioning system, seats and other interior parts.  The KC cab has some rust damage as does the bed over the wheel arches.  Unless there is a reason to keep the remainder of the KC it will go to the crusher.  This weekend I will attempt to get at the torque converter bolts either by rotating the engine plate or cutting it in two with a plasma cutter.

[Charlie69]

The torque convertor is full of ATF, please be careful.

[datzenmike]

10 hours ago, jagman said:

I don't plan to keep the automatic from the KC. My standard truck has a five speed.  I just want to pull this engine and rebuild it for the std.  I am lucky the KC has other bits that I need  such as an unbodged air conditioning system, seats and other interior parts.  The KC cab has some rust damage as does the bed over the wheel arches.  Unless there is a reason to keep the remainder of the KC it will go to the crusher.  This weekend I will attempt to get at the torque converter bolts either by rotating the engine plate or cutting it in two with a plasma cutter.

 

 There has to have been an opening (hole) or the plate is two part and the bottom half below the crank just unbolts from the transmission. After all they had to get at the bolts to put it together at the factory right?.

[Lockleaf]

If you have a plasma cutter, just cut a large hole in the lower cover plate.

[datzenmike]

[jagman]

The engine is out of the truck.  The cover plate was indeed in two pieces but held together by some kind of tape that would not allow separation.  A hammer and sharp chisel took care of the tape issue.  So now I will clean the block and head up for the machine shop visit for rebuilding.  Thank you all for the advice and support once again!! 

I will be pulling some parts from the junker that I need (interior) but does saving the rear and trans or front end parts make any sense before I return the hulk to the scrap yard?Steve

Edited February 10, 2019 by jagman
addition

[bottomwatcher]

What you are looking at is a lot of nla parts. I would take every bolt, rear end steering whatever before sending it to scrap. Switches, wiper motor, overflow tank, gauges, fuel pump, having a donor is handy but doesn't make friends with the neighbors. You could sell parts here, everybody needs the oddball crap.

[Charlie69]

I could use some parts if you are willing to pull them and ship them to me.  PM me if you are willing to sell and ship some parts.  I can pay by PayPal or other methods.