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Not a 510, 620


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I'm building a 620, have had her for 3 years now. She's a 1976 long bed, 4 speed, L20. When I bought the truck, it needed everything, said 19,000 miles, was pretty clean, til I got into it.

Here's where I found it, in the state it was in..








Picked it up for $5000 I think, had a friend drive it home, because I had a broken arm at the time.. I didn't really know much about it, other than it was sweet, but ugly, worked okay. Few weeks went by, felt more comfortable driving it, so I took it out. Brakes didn't work, needed two rear wheel cylinders. At this point, I had only dealt with BMWs ( E30,36,46) so I was unaware of Rockauto having most parts.

Anyways, few more weeks went by, still unable to really work on my cars, so I had some friends do the brakes for me, went well. Then I ordered some 3" blocks for the rear, gathered some info, and a friend and I installed the blocks, and reindexed the torsions. Stock shitty shocks still.






I also took off the heinous bed cover, camper hooks, rear crash bumper, front bumperettes.. pretty much everything I hated. So, tires sucked, they were original. So I picked up some Chev Rally wheels, my friend Mike Kohloff powder coated them black, picked up some of the cheapest tires available and sent it.






Looked shitty at this point.. I left it, installed some gas adjust shocks, rode better, and I think I lowered the front more. Then winter happened...




I was doing an engine build/restomod on my E30 at the time, so I spent all my time on the E30 for a while.




Come spring, I moved the truck to my parents garage, to make room for my other cars at my place




At some point I came across Mike Klotz (Bluehandsfab).. Great guy, great ideas.. I purchased a Nissan hard body ball joint conversion from him, which included upper and lower control arm, as well as inner and outer tie rods, with coupling. Very nice product. I had it all powder coated, again by Mike Kohloff. Purchased Belltech drop spindles, some new calipers, rotors, pads, lines etc.. installed everything, along with a 15/16 zx master. Worked well, had it aligned etc..






I cut off the droop bump stops, and tig welded on some plates, which I dimpled with my dimple die set from TMR customs.

The truck had an oil cooler installed when I got it, the original owner had a factory drop in camper which he drove to Vancouver occasionally. It was installed poorly, probably in the dark at midnight with a blindfold on... no pictures tho. So I bought a new cooler, some -an lines, fittings, bent up a bracket, dimpled it. 




So, I drove it for a bit, and it sucked, leaked oil, back fired, but I loved it. I pulled the carpet when I got it, and there was some rust scale on the pass side floor panel. Removed it all, but I didn't coat it back, made some mats from rubber. No pics of that. Everything in there is original and mint.




I installed this Nardi wheel, I got from someone from Vancouver, came from a Stagea.




So some time went on, I guess a year ish.. wrapped up my E30. Here's some pictures.










So fast forward to now..ish.. summer 2018, I picked up some new wheels from Love20bee on instagram.



and I left it be for a while, til fall.

I decide I am done with the leaking of oil, back firing, horrible ride, etc..




I guess I was also sick of the rust I kept finding, so I gutted the interior.. Big rust spot on the firewall... Sweet.




Oh and I was sick of the sunroof... and the rusted out battery tray.






A friend of a friend replaced the roof skin for me, replaced the battery tray metal, and fixed up the firewall. Did an OK job, kind of a d bag.








I removed all the rust scale from my rain cowl... disaster, then POR15'd it, then seam sealed it.. Kinda see it here..




Now it's all primed up, ready to paint and looks nice.










That last picture is now. I have a bunch of other details to post.. engine, new suspension, brakes, stuff I've restored. Next post, kinda out of order.

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I thought back and fourth between running a modern engine ( SR, Beams ), and I kind of still want to, but I ended up using the L20 and open chamber u67. A local shop in Calgary did the machine work on the engine.

We cleaned everything up, resurfaced the head and block, bored the block to 86mm.. ran 86mm flat top ZX pistons, resized the rods for ARP fastners. Rotating assembly was balanced, new valve grind, installed ISKY springs and retainers... I will be running a Steve Bonk .535 cam










I haven't reassembled yet, I am just waiting to finish up paint, so I can have a nice clean work space moving forward.

I've recently picked up a set of Weber DCOE45s from a person on FB marketplace.. Came with a new Cannon manifold. I also have a older swan neck Cannon manifold, unsure what I will need to run to clear my brake setup.. read on..








Valve cover, done by Mike Kohloff, wrinkle black. Oil cap from Number 7 which I got from Lonely Driver.




My friend Jim Karst recently visited Ermish Racing and picked up a Nissan Comp style header for me, I don't know how well it will fit, but I am not running torsions, and I can just modify it at home.




I am running a 280ZX transmission, with a Fidanza flywheel, Exedy clutch, etc etc.. no pictures doe..

For my suspension, I will be doing a 3 or 4 link in the rear, but not this year... So I won't talk about that.. But for the front, I will be running the Mike Klotz suspension members, with Beebani upper shock mounts and Qa1 coil overs.. No progress on that.. Will address soon.

Brakes... Z32 26mm calipers, Beebani rotors with adapters.. Izusu rear disc conversion.. Also Beebani.. Yet to come..

Mike Kohloff did the powder coating on the calipers.. Came out awesome.. I rebuilt them.






Interior, nothing fancy... Undecided whether to use my OEM bench seat, or run my 914 seats. I raptor lined the floor and firewall, looks sweet.







I think that's it for now.. I will update as I move forward.

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Wow, some much good stuff pilled up in one place. This truck is in great shape and should be the perfect platform for the build you're doing. Glad to hear you're sticking with the L. You made the right move there. 

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Since my last post...


I finished painting the engine bay.. Used an acrylic enamel.. in the factory paint code.


I use a 3m accuspray HVLP gun.







Will be coating the frame soon!


I am deleting the load sensing brake bias valve, so I figure it's best to redo the brake lines in the engine compartment, leading into the rear brakes..


Picked up a Rigid brand 3/16 bender, and an Eastwood brand tubing straightener!




Truck was badly hail damaged at some point in it's life.. Thought I should get a new hood, but mine was nice. Tried PDR and it turned out amazing!














That center console I scored from the local scrap yard.. was FILTHY!! I degreased it multiple times, and coated it with trim black paint..






Also picked up the missing piece from my console from Alain Montiel. As well as an OEM shifter rebuild setup.




Kind of restored my heater box. Looks super nice now..




Engine block was also painted using POR15 rust paint, and POR15 engine enamel.









Random pic of VC with spray bar.




Few more parts..


Clutch/Flywheel setup

Rear brake setup.. Izuzu rear with Beebani brackets.. 

Some balljoints for the Hardbody setup too..




Has anyone tried the energy tie rod boots?


One more pic


CCV fittings from Raceworks in Australia.




Still haven't assembled the engine. I keep going back and fourth with the compression ratio. Been talking to a few guys now, I think it will work with the flat tops. =/





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5 minutes ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

Man you must be RICH$$$$$$$

Open chamber more prone to pinging but you guys have 94octane I think up there.

Not rich. Probably should slow it down a bit with the spending lol. Do more assembly. 


I am going to get the Cr as low as I can with the flat tops. 

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Do your self a favor if you haven't already get the higher volume oil pump... I think the oil spray bar bleeds off a bit of pressure....

I went with a Hitachi OUP0023 for about $55, made a big difference at idle and while driving...

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6 hours ago, Crashtd420 said:

Do your self a favor if you haven't already get the higher volume oil pump... I think the oil spray bar bleeds off a bit of pressure....

I went with a Hitachi OUP0023 for about $55, made a big difference at idle and while driving...

Thanks I was actually looking into that ?

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