Turbosauce74 13 Report post Posted January 19 Middle of an sr20 swap into a 620 and I would prefer to use the stock alternator instead of the Subaru one. I had a 77 amp alternator before the swap and it could barely keep up to my sound system, so the 50 amp justy alternator will get cooked for sure. Has anyone made a bra ket to keep the stock one or bigger? Share this post Link to post
volkswagner 241 Report post Posted January 19 Can you use a FWD alternator setup that puts it on the other side of the block? 1 Share this post Link to post
Turbosauce74 13 Report post Posted January 19 2 minutes ago, volkswagner said: Can you use a FWD alternator setup that puts it on the other side of the block? Steering box is in the way unfortunately. It could stay on the side it's on if I just mounted it a slight bit higher. Share this post Link to post
datzenmike 27,823 Report post Posted January 19 This is the problem with the 620. The lower rad hose wraps around the alternator and enters the timing cover just above it so you can't go too high. A z car water inlet is swept back slightly more and helps move the hose back and away but intimately the inlet fitting is still in the way. I used a 720 3 bolt block mount. It moves the alternator slightly higher than the L series ones. To mount it I had to put the belt on the pulley first then the two lower bolts into the block mount. Then the tensioner strap, tighten the belt, then the two bottom bolts. I had a 90 amp Chrysler K-car alternator. There's room on the distributor side for an air conditioner compressor so there's got to be room for an alternator. There's also several threaded holes on the side of the block for this or the earlier air pump. I broke the bolts off an old 521 I had back in the 70s and a friend moved the stock alternator to the distributor side. Seemed like there was lots of room and no rad hose in the way. Share this post Link to post
Turbosauce74 13 Report post Posted January 19 1 minute ago, datzenmike said: This is the problem with the 620. The lower rad hose wraps around the alternator and enters the timing cover just above it so you can't go too high. A z car water inlet is swept back slightly more and helps move the hose back and away but intimately the inlet fitting is still in the way. I used a 720 3 bolt block mount. It moves the alternator slightly higher than the L series ones. To mount it I had to put the belt on the pulley first then the two lower bolts into the block mount. Then the tensioner strap, tighten the belt, then the two bottom bolts. I had a 90 amp Chrysler K-car alternator. There's room on the distributor side for an air conditioner compressor so there's got to be room for an alternator. There's also several threaded holes on the side of the block for this or the earlier air pump. I broke the bolts off an old 521 I had back in the 70s and a friend moved the stock alternator to the distributor side. Seemed like there was lots of room and no rad hose in the way. I think you missed the sr20 part 😕 Share this post Link to post
Turbosauce74 13 Report post Posted January 19 No problem. I should make a post on the alternator I got in my l20. It's an internally regulated gm 77 amp. That's why I'm hoping to keep this 80 amp one. Share this post Link to post
]2eDeYe 8,478 Report post Posted January 19 9 hours ago, Turbosauce74 said: Steering box is in the way unfortunately. It could stay on the side it's on if I just mounted it a slight bit higher. It actually mounts the alternator up high, above the ac pump, on the other side. I have a bracket to relocate the stock alternator 1" up, just waiting for Jeff to make a couple prototypes. :) Share this post Link to post
Turbosauce74 13 Report post Posted January 19 4 hours ago, ]2eDeYe said: It actually mounts the alternator up high, above the ac pump, on the other side. I have a bracket to relocate the stock alternator 1" up, just waiting for Jeff to make a couple prototypes. 🙂 Do you have an info? Maybe a CAD file? I could always 3d print a prototype. Share this post Link to post
spriso 70 Report post Posted January 24 You can always get a high-output Subaru Justy version (120amps) and use our proven alternator swap kit. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Subaru-Justy-Alternator-120-AMP-89-91-1-2L-HIGH-OUTPUT/254073773643?fits=Model%3AJusty|Make%3ASubaru&epid=76934713&hash=item3b27fa1e4b:g:7P0AAOSw9GhYlDAC:sc:USPSPriorityFlatRateBox!97330!US!-1:rk:1:pf:1&frcectupt=true http://spriso.com/our-products/subaru-justy-alternator-install-kit/ Hope that helps, Michael 1 Share this post Link to post
Turbosauce74 13 Report post Posted January 24 That's a decent option, I couldn't find that before. If this sr20 relocate bracket doesn't work I may have to go that route. Thanks a lot. Plastic prototype bracket is currently printing 1 Share this post Link to post
ol' 320 330 Report post Posted February 10 (edited) On 1/23/2019 at 6:49 PM, Turbosauce74 said: That's a decent option, I couldn't find that before. If this sr20 relocate bracket doesn't work I may have to go that route. Thanks a lot. Plastic prototype bracket is currently printing Turbo.... for the good of the order, can you post a pic of your solution? What does the new bracket look like? Did you end up using the 120 amp Justy alt or an SR alt? Spriso: Does your Justy alt mounting kit work with that 120amp hi output Justy alt as well? Steve: If the prototype bracket works will you be making these? Just curious. Edited February 10 by ol' 320 Share this post Link to post
5t341tH 253 Report post Posted 12 hours ago I believe ]2eDeYe is working on the alternator mount too. I am waiting patiently by for him 🙂 Share this post Link to post
