NVFireFighter Posted January 19, 2019 Report Share Posted January 19, 2019 I was putting in my new temp sensor and as I was tightening to the o ring(Too Far)there was a snap sound and this is what happened...... It looks like a perfect candidate for the old JB Weld, and I've had great success before with it, but I wanted to check and see if you guys thought it would work?? Thoughts? Thanks! 1 Link to comment
datzenmike Posted January 19, 2019 Report Share Posted January 19, 2019 That's no big deal. No worries. JB is not a glue. When you coat those two surfaces and press together there won't be much holding it on. Not to mention it squeezing out to the inside and onto the threads. Here's what I would do. First remove the housing if you want a good finished product. If the housing breaks the problem is solved. ? De-grease thoroughly and rough up the surface all around below the break with sand paper. Get a good gasket sealer NOT RTV! from Permetex. Follow the directions which should include waiting 10 min for it to 'set up'. Coat the threads lightly and tighten the sender into the remaining threads. You don't need to seat the O ring, these are likely pipe threads and they seal when tightened. Now blob some JB around the remaining threads on the sender and down onto the crack surface and below. Cover that part completely if you like. I would come back to it in the morning and build another layer on top of this and let set. Permatex, 80016 This is a one way deal and you have nothing to loose. That sender is in there permanently and should never leak. Be sure to use anti seize on those housing and cover bolts after thoroughly cleaning them. The housing bolts are a specific length so don't use a longer one on the front than necessary or it will rub the timing chain. While driving your Datsun around and enjoying yourself, keep your eyes open for a replacement thermostat housing. 2 Link to comment
NVFireFighter Posted January 19, 2019 Author Report Share Posted January 19, 2019 They have InstaWeld, but it doesn't have as much PSI as regular JBWeld....it's like 2200 vs 3600 and not sure of the heat range for it. I was concerned about getting it on the threads also, but your solution will work to alleviate that problem. I actually bought the last one from Australia on ebay, so I've got one coming, but I'd like to keep it as a spare if your repair suggestions work out like I hope! Thanks Mike.... 1 Link to comment
G-Duax Posted January 19, 2019 Report Share Posted January 19, 2019 Just buy a new housing, they are all over eBay. No glue of any type is a safe fix on that. 2 Link to comment
sebpv Posted January 19, 2019 Report Share Posted January 19, 2019 (edited) or have a welder MIG some aluminum back on it an tap the threads from inside out and sand flat Edited January 19, 2019 by sebpv 2 Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted January 19, 2019 Report Share Posted January 19, 2019 2 hours ago, sebpv said: or have a welder MIG some aluminum back on it an tap the threads from inside out and sand flat Nice idea but i doubt you could get a tap inside that to do it... And besides that isnt it an npt thread? If so that definitely wont work.... I would try retapping from the outside and you'll get a few more threads.. or just replace the housing..... they are cheap enough..... 1 Link to comment
wayno Posted January 19, 2019 Report Share Posted January 19, 2019 I have never heard of this "O" ring mentioned, it sounds like something someone decided might help but instead caused an issue, the sensor/sender would not turn in that far. ? Easy would be find another thermostat housing, but Reno NV is not Datsun central but maybe the510keeper has something, he lives in the Sacramento area, if I could not find one I would try to thread it in the threads that are left, if it will not thread in at all then do as Crash mentioned, re-tap the hole with the proper tap(NTP type?) and then put the sender/sensor in, it appears from looking at one I have that it likely will not be an issue if it is in there a quarter inch deeper. Do not use pipe tape on the threads to seal it, this sensor/sender needs to ground out to the housing, aluminum is hard enough to get a good ground on, you do not need to add pipe tape to the issue. 1 Link to comment
Ben_upde Posted January 19, 2019 Report Share Posted January 19, 2019 I would thread the sensor in what’s left of the threads and tighten her down. Link to comment
datzenmike Posted January 19, 2019 Report Share Posted January 19, 2019 That should work too. The sender pipe threads are tapered. As you tighten the sender in there is interference and it begins to get tighter and tighter and seals. In comparison a bolt will thread into a nut forever and only tightens when it runs out of thread or bottoms out. Link to comment
G-Duax Posted January 19, 2019 Report Share Posted January 19, 2019 That is NOT a tapered pipe thread. It doesn't take an O-ring, that was someone else's wet dream. It is a strait machined thread, for the gland nut that retains the sensor. It seals on a tapered seat. Stop being a cheap ass, buy another housing. eBay, took less than 60 seconds to bring up: L-series thermostat housing Or, you can cobble it together, so it fails on you, and you overheat, and warp a head. Might try bubble gum, or duct tape. You could hold it in place while having someone welds around it, OR you could just spend $30, and have it last forever, now that you learned not to use a 12" cressent wrench to tighten it. 1 Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted January 19, 2019 Report Share Posted January 19, 2019 Yea I think was the other hole in the housing that was an npt.... maybe maybe not..... I remember this now... I think I used the same sender NV is talking about.... looks like this... Should have looked like this..... I used one of those with the oring.... because at the time it's what I received and didnt know any better..... I did however turn the diameter back ... I found that diameter under the threads bottomed out first inside the housing.... I didnt wanna spend more money and had access to a lathe so I made it work... 1 Link to comment
NVFireFighter Posted January 20, 2019 Author Report Share Posted January 20, 2019 2 hours ago, G-Duax said: That is NOT a tapered pipe thread. It doesn't take an O-ring, that was someone else's wet dream. It is a strait machined thread, for the gland nut that retains the sensor. It seals on a tapered seat. Stop being a cheap ass, buy another housing. eBay, took less than 60 seconds to bring up: L-series thermostat housing Or, you can cobble it together, so it fails on you, and you overheat, and warp a head. Might try bubble gum, or duct tape. You could hold it in place while having someone welds around it, OR you could just spend $30, and have it last forever, now that you learned not to use a 12" cressent wrench to tighten it. Well, If you bothered to read my above post asshat, I have one coming from ebay.....and not the type you linked, cause that's the wrong one....thanks. Maybe less coffee would help.... Link to comment
NVFireFighter Posted January 20, 2019 Author Report Share Posted January 20, 2019 (edited) 32 minutes ago, Crashtd420 said: Yea I think was the other hole in the housing that was an npt.... maybe maybe not..... I remember this now... I think I used the same sender NV is talking about.... looks like this... Should have looked like this..... I used one of those with the oring.... because at the time it's what I received and didnt know any better..... I did however turn the diameter back ... I found that diameter under the threads bottomed out first inside the housing.... I didnt wanna spend more money and had access to a lathe so I made it work... Yes, that's the exact one I have. Is the second pic type available somewhere? Thanks Crash....edit: Found it! Edited January 20, 2019 by NVFireFighter 1 Link to comment
NVFireFighter Posted January 20, 2019 Author Report Share Posted January 20, 2019 (edited) Yeah, the thread back in didn't work, because the sensor was already bottoming out before the threads caught.....nice thought though. I'm going to wait for the ebay sensor from Australia,lol. I tried buying that sensor Crash showed a picture of but it's on backorder. I would much rather have that style of sensor. The search continues..... And Wayno, thanks for the anti-tape reference, I was using that when it snapped off. I'll use a little RTV or something similar. Edited January 20, 2019 by NVFireFighter Link to comment
G-Duax Posted January 20, 2019 Report Share Posted January 20, 2019 1 hour ago, Crashtd420 said: Yea I think was the other hole in the housing that was an npt.... maybe maybe not..... Yes, the other one(s) are NPT. So....... You had the wrong sensor. That explains it. Moral of the story, if your replacement doesn't look like what you took out, don't use it. Take the time to find the correct part. Link to comment
wayno Posted January 20, 2019 Report Share Posted January 20, 2019 OK, so are you using that sensor/sender thing on the side, if not will the sender/sensor you have thread into that hole? If it will then you could just buy a plug for the hole that is broken and use the side hole in the housing. Link to comment
NVFireFighter Posted January 20, 2019 Author Report Share Posted January 20, 2019 4 minutes ago, G-Duax said: So....... You had the wrong sensor. That explains it. Moral of the story, if your replacement doesn't look like what you took out, don't use it. Take the time to find the correct part. So...... I had the sensor that was determined by the parts store for my vehicle. It was EXACTLY the same length and diameter. The only thing different was the o-ring. Moral of the story.....there's good replies to threads, and then there are the assholes that don't even mention the fact that they gave you a link to the wrong fucking part. Take the time to reference correctly...... ? 1 1 Link to comment
datzenmike Posted January 20, 2019 Report Share Posted January 20, 2019 The one at the top of the picture? That's the TVV and I think a larger hole. Link to comment
G-Duax Posted January 20, 2019 Report Share Posted January 20, 2019 I may be an ass hole, but I have never forced an incorrect part in until I broke something. Want me to send you a box of tissues ? Link to comment
NVFireFighter Posted January 20, 2019 Author Report Share Posted January 20, 2019 9 minutes ago, wayno said: OK, so are you using that sensor/sender thing on the side, if not will the sender/sensor you have thread into that hole? If it will then you could just buy a plug for the hole that is broken and use the side hole in the housing. All of the outlets are being used by something......the lower hose, the one with the hose still on, goes to the heater. The broken one is the temp sensor hole. and the top is of course the upper radiator hose. Link to comment
NVFireFighter Posted January 20, 2019 Author Report Share Posted January 20, 2019 2 minutes ago, G-Duax said: I may be an ass hole At least you got that part right...... Nothing was forced idiot. 1 Link to comment
datzenmike Posted January 20, 2019 Report Share Posted January 20, 2019 The lower hose with the gear clamp does not go to the heater, it's the thermostat by-pass. It should go to the lower rad return fitting on the side of the timing cover. This returns all water to the water pump. There should also be a T and a line going back to the intake at the base of the carburetor. Link to comment
wayno Posted January 20, 2019 Report Share Posted January 20, 2019 10 minutes ago, datzenmike said: The one at the top of the picture? That's the TVV and I think a larger hole. Yes I was talking about that TVV thing, none of my engines have anything connected to that sensor/sender, I have a can of fittings that has reducers in it, I am not saying any of them would fit, but I was just throwing that option out there. 1 Link to comment
NVFireFighter Posted January 20, 2019 Author Report Share Posted January 20, 2019 3 minutes ago, datzenmike said: The lower hose with the gear clamp does not go to the heater, it's the thermostat by-pass. It should go to the lower rad return fitting on the side of the timing cover. This returns all water to the water pump. There should also be a T and a line going back to the intake at the base of the carburetor. Hmm, I may have more issues than I thought then......lol. I could swear that that small hose goes to a line that eventually went to the heater.....I don't have electricity to my shop yet so I can't be sure. I'll check tomorrow... Link to comment
datzenmike Posted January 20, 2019 Report Share Posted January 20, 2019 In a way it does. It's the return FROM the heater and goes back to the water pump. The hot water TO the heater comes out the side of the head. 1 Link to comment
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