lovot Posted February 9, 2019 Author Report Share Posted February 9, 2019 ignition timing reset, something is still wrong because it doesn't sound like it's firing properly on the 3 good cylinders, so it will start but it won't even get to a normal low idle, doesn't seem to care about the throttle plate position. I got the valve cover off, the intake valve for cylinder 1 probably isn't seating properly, there is around double the gap between it and the rocker compared to all the other valves. I suspect the computer doesn't like cylinder 1 being dead since it seems to base everything it does on cylinder 1. My gasket set isn't supposed to show up before Monday. I'll see about the carb and independent dizzy since the low pressure fuel pump, and other systems need to happen regardless. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted February 9, 2019 Report Share Posted February 9, 2019 The 'something wrong' is the cylinder with zero compression that's not working. Setting the timing and worrying about the other three is like polishing brass on the Titanic. Looks like the valve seat dropped, probably on day one you had problems. Head gasket wouldn't have helped or filing down the head. Time to stop and take that head back off. Seats usually drop from running out of water and severely over heating. Seats are usually frozen and the head heated in an oven. The seat popped in and the head cools and contracts around the seat and the seat warms and expands into the hole for a tighter than tight fit. Hardened seat hammering soft aluminum. The head is probably junk after 5 min of running like this. 1 Quote Link to comment
lovot Posted February 9, 2019 Author Report Share Posted February 9, 2019 Valve isn't held open far enough for the seat to have escaped, and it looked normal, although dirty when I had it off. Hoping it isn't junked but I might as well get in there and see what the damage is. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted February 9, 2019 Report Share Posted February 9, 2019 The seat is smaller diameter than the valve width and cannot escape unless it breaks.... and that would be a bad thing. It might even fit back into place or it's pounded it way into the head, but it's hooped either way. 1 Quote Link to comment
lovot Posted February 9, 2019 Author Report Share Posted February 9, 2019 (edited) I'll definitely get in there to see exactly how fucked it is. Looking for engines and transmissions, transmission was full of grey soup, metal chips all over the drain plug, it worked a lot better after putting new gear lube in it, but the grey soup is not a good sign. I'm going to look further into replacing the engine and transmission with rebuilt stuff, can't get a random used engine since every time I get a used engine over 25HP it's about ready to be overhauled, hell even ones 10HP or less are a serious gamble. Edited February 9, 2019 by lovot 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted February 9, 2019 Report Share Posted February 9, 2019 I removed a Z series 5 speed hoping I could use it and the oil was more like soft silver gray margarine and the magnet on the drain bung had two balls on it from the counter bearing. 1 Quote Link to comment
lovot Posted February 9, 2019 Author Report Share Posted February 9, 2019 Mine isn't that bad, and I think the metal chunks that came out are from that plate that's supposed to stop you from shifting into reverse at speed, since it looked like sheet metal, but it's still not looking good. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted February 9, 2019 Report Share Posted February 9, 2019 The reverse check sleeve. Probably not. If it looked like sheet metal then likely the oil gutter.... 1 Quote Link to comment
lovot Posted February 9, 2019 Author Report Share Posted February 9, 2019 I think it was heavier gauge than that, but it's hard to tell. Why would the oil gutter end up getting chewed up? 1 Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted February 9, 2019 Report Share Posted February 9, 2019 (edited) That gutter/oil catcher is very close to the gear it is next to, if the rear counter shaft bearing goes bad and loses the bearings, that gear could very easily hit that oil catcher that appears to keep the reverse? gear lubed. Edited February 9, 2019 by wayno 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted February 9, 2019 Report Share Posted February 9, 2019 wayno I had my mid ratio apart because I found this... Found nothing until I noticed the lack of the oil gutter. Pulled on off a spare transmission and hammered and peened it over in place. The oil falls into the longer gutter riveted to the rear case that goes back to lube the rear of the mainshaft. 1 Quote Link to comment
lovot Posted February 10, 2019 Author Report Share Posted February 10, 2019 Turns out the valve was just bent, not sure how that happened, but it wasn't making racket until I pulled the head, so I bent it somehow. I'll see about getting valves in ASAP, and a valve spring compressor. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted February 10, 2019 Report Share Posted February 10, 2019 Engine should be at TDC then pull head off. Once off never rotate the cam sprocket OR put it back exactly before installing and NEVER lay the head down as some valves will definitely me off their seats and will be bent easily. When I was a kid my next door neighbor was my hero. He was always working on his '62 Pontiac. He set a socket in the combustion chamber so the valve couldn't be opened then climbed up on the work bench and leaned on the valve spring with two wooden hammer handles. My job was to quickly fish out the two keepers because my fingers were small.. 1 Quote Link to comment
lovot Posted February 10, 2019 Author Report Share Posted February 10, 2019 Had it on it's back the whole time, or so I thought, mistakes were made, lessons were learned, definitely going to be more careful in the future with OHC heads, only really worked with flathead and OHV stuff before. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted February 10, 2019 Report Share Posted February 10, 2019 Yeah, push rods would have disconnected from the rockers as the head is removed and the valves would all be shut. Take a look at the piston under the bent valve. If there's a crescent strike on it then the valve was open when installed or the cam turned after the head was on. If you were at TDC I'm guessing it was the #4 or #1 intake? 1 Quote Link to comment
lovot Posted February 10, 2019 Author Report Share Posted February 10, 2019 TDC compression cycle on cylinder 1, had it lined up with the marked link and everything, which was a fluke because that link changes position every time it comes around. I did move the cam, but returned it to the position it was before putting it back on the block. 1 Quote Link to comment
lovot Posted February 23, 2019 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2019 Would the Z24 intake and exhaust headers work on a KA24e head? I replaced the valve last week, and it helped it start up, but the engine still won't idle up, and it still won't stay running, and while the valve isn't making racket, it sounds like there's something mechanically wrong with it still (it likely needs to be rebuilt, had this happen before), I have a KA24e on order but it's probably going to be missing the exhaust, intake, and dizzy. 1 Quote Link to comment
Lockleaf Posted February 23, 2019 Report Share Posted February 23, 2019 No, the intake will not work. Exhaust will bolt up but the ports are the wrong shape so grinding is likely called for. Dizzy can be made to work if you also use the oil pump drive shaft. But only do that if you are staying carbureted. And then i would suggest getting a d21 throttle body fuel injection intake manifold, slap together an adapter and put a carb on it. 1 Quote Link to comment
lovot Posted February 24, 2019 Author Report Share Posted February 24, 2019 ok, so the intake isn't going to work, i'll have to track one down, or make one, tracking one down is probably better but i'll make one if I have to 1 Quote Link to comment
lovot Posted February 24, 2019 Author Report Share Posted February 24, 2019 Any ideas on where to find one? 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted February 24, 2019 Report Share Posted February 24, 2019 Maybe change the title? 1 Quote Link to comment
lovot Posted February 24, 2019 Author Report Share Posted February 24, 2019 (edited) ok, fixed it Edited February 24, 2019 by lovot 2 Quote Link to comment
Lockleaf Posted February 24, 2019 Report Share Posted February 24, 2019 D21 should still be common in junkyards. Just make sure its a ka in it 1 Quote Link to comment
lovot Posted February 24, 2019 Author Report Share Posted February 24, 2019 I'll have to try that 1 Quote Link to comment
lovot Posted March 7, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 7, 2019 The only junkyard that would have had an intact Nissan with the KA24e in it got destroyed, none of the others have anything useful, any parts I need have to be ordered in, or robbed off of the Z24I if possible. I got the KA24e, true to normal automotive douchbaggery it's missing a bunch of parts, despite being sold as a complete engine, (they clearly have a VERY different idea of what a complete engine is, last time I put an engine in something it came basically ready to run, just hook up all the tubes, wires, throttle cable, put fluids in it, and it's good to go, but that was for a piece of industrial equipment). Is the oil pan off the Z24I going to fit, or do I need to find one? I already have a rocker arm cover, and intake on order, going to see if the local auto stores have the water pump, water pump pulley, and fan clutch, hopefully the fan is the same. Would the flywheel and clutch mount up? 1 Quote Link to comment
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