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New first datsun looking for help


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I would like to see this truck some day to see how things were done, it has a 720 booster/brake master, I like to use the smaller 73/74 Datsun 620 booster because it will fit without cutting the inner fender, the Ford Courrier booster will fit if one pounds on the inner fender for a while to bend it away from the booster, the 720 booster is way bigger than both of them and some cutting would likely have to be done too make room for it.

Can you take a photo of the firewall where the clutch and booster pedestal bolt to the firewall, maybe pointed down at a 45 degree angle?

I am curious how yours was done, this is mine when first done.





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If it has the engine tag for the 521 in the engine compartment, you should be ok...... unless they look for the frame ID (which is I think behind the pass side engine mount on the 521) Now you don't technically own the 720 frame (unless you got a separate bill of sale for the 720) and if it was originally stolen, you could be in even more trouble. The frame and the body should be reported and the proper documentation issued, but again who is going to question this. It's unlikely anyone will look as long as you own it. You might have trouble selling it to a knowledgeable Datsun owner.


I had a '74 cab with a '78 engine tag on it mounted on an '82 720 frame. I made it this way and no one was being cheated or deceived by this when I got rid of it..

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I live in Vancouver Wa just over the 205 bridge.

When you first posted you had a 521 with napZ block in it I was wondering if you bought the one I made and sold to a guy in Vancouver, the guy really liked it and I was wondering if he sold it, but that is not the 521 I put together.

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I had a 70 521 with a Z20 5 speed.  My brother and I installed it.


I have vented rotors on my 1980 720 chassis with an L20B automatic in my 66 520.  This one has Belltech lowered spindles.  All you have to do to put the vented rotors on the non vented rotor chassis is swap the spindles with the vented rotor and caliper.  I run the 1980 720 2wd hubs with my 85 720 vented rotors and calipers.  The 1980 hubs have the smaller diameter that fits the early 620, 521, 520, and 320 wheels.

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  • 3 weeks later...

What info are you looking for?

So is it stuck in 4th or shifting does nothing?

I would say split the cases and have a look.... luckily you can remove the front and rear case very easily and nothing falls out... at least nothing should....

I've had shift forks stuck because the transmission was sitting..... 

I wouldnt try forcing it, just incase something is broke inside.. .

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That's a 71B 5 speed with Z series bolt pattern.



1/  Does the shifter seem to go into all the other gears????


2/ If so, what happens when you engage the clutch???


3/ what happens in neutral with the clutch engaged?? Any noise???




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Then the counter shaft is not turning. Every gear except 4th is run through the counter shaft.


The counter gear is in constant mesh with the mainshaft and is turned at all times including 4th (though not used) and neutral. It's driven by the mainshaft input and and the counter driven gear which is held to the counter shaft by two woodruff keys. If they have sheared off the counter driven gear might just spin freely on the counter shaft.


Drive and driven gears have ground themselves away...



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If everything is as you say then...  


If the woodruff keys broke... probably can be replaced. Pull the counter bearing and the gear behind it.  Anything else is probably a disaster. 


Pull the front bearing cover off and see if the counter bearing (lower one) is damaged or the inside of the cover chewed up. Usually this bearing goes and the counter shaft becomes un supported and unstable and the gears loose their lash. They are forced apart by any load. There's no way this was quiet while it was happening.

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I've lost track of which engine you have. If you are running ant Z series engine then the Hardbody KA transmission will bolt on correctly.


You probably have a 31.5" long transmission now. The KA Hardbody transmission won't be the same size so the driveshaft length will need to be changed to work.


You must keep the old release bearing collar with your old clutch and pressure plate. Just put on the KA clutch arm  They are a matched set and must be kept together.


Get a new release bearing though. 

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