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620 / KA24DE swap underway! pics pics pics.


620_Brian

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The compressor I have has the single bolt oval shaped style manifolds on each port.

I'm not sure about anything being commercially available.

I think in my case its going to be all custom tig / brazed or whatever.

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I'm not sure of the brand - but its this actual one from advance auto (rock auto had a better pic).

 

rockauto-compressor.jpg

 

Those fittings from the hot rod shop might be useful if they fit that compressor. I'll be sure and let my AC guy know those at least may be available.

Edited by 620_Brian
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Hey. Thanks for the info, muy helpful. 

 

FYI - Vintage Air make the adapters for the 240SX/Sanden compressor. they are under $15 each.

Go here and scroll down to the Sanden #8 and #10 O ring adapters

https://www.vintageair.com/hose-kits-fittings/

 

045008-VUR.jpg

 

 You can also make your own hoses, DIY style with their kit.

 

Lucky you have a '79....you get extra clearance on the rad support bracket that my '74 does not have. Im having fun trying to figure out how to mount the condenser

Edited by FrankRizzo
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Cool. Almost 🙄

 

I’ve been trying to mock up different bracket configurations with the OEM compressor. It’s still really tight with hardly any adjustment room thanks to that stupid steering box. 

At the suggestion of my AC guy I’m now looking at what he called the smallest compressor available. It’s what all the LS swap / hot rod guys use - a  Sanden SD7B10. It’s about $150 new with warranty. I’m going to mock one of those up when I have more time to tinker at work. There’s a company called dirty dingo that makes the LS swap brackets that I’ve gotten some ideas from. Something like this but obviously for the drivers side:

 

0580306-A-68-F4-4433-B1-DB-7-A3-BD963854

3-F467-D7-E-BB4-F-49-CF-8-FD0-8-F8907-B9

DCD076-EE-EA38-476-E-A917-6-FFAA4-ACA3-A

 

 

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Well..I think I can just use a 3,4,5 rib belt or whatever on the 2 remaining crank pulleys. I have the 2 inner ones to choose from.

I did the SOHC power steering delete so I'm already running a mismatched belt on the outermost crank pulley.

From what I read there are guys that have 1000's of miles with that setup with no problem.

I guess that's why I'm assuming I can do the same on the remaining inner pulleys. 

I do have one of the giant cast OEM compressor brackets, but I've totally scrapped that idea - its just too much.

I've been trying to mock up a simple flat 1/4" plate that would use the 4 oem compressor bracket holes on the block. These holes would be slightly slotted for "X Axis" adjustment.

Then 4 more holes threaded in the plate for the oem compressor to mount with spacers in the appropriate Z Axis.

There's the guy in a link in previous post that did it just like this but it just seems so tight - I think I can come up with something better with that smaller compressor.

Edited by 620_Brian
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See the pics in this post.

It can be done, but like I said I think I can come up with something better that can be duplicated by others.

I'll be doing a acad drawing for the brackets when perfected.

 

 

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Keep in mind, tapping the plate, you will want a minimum 1/2" thick plate for thread engagement. 

 

You could use a thinner plate and weld a nut to it. The nut will protrude a bit so that would have to be accounted for. 
Something like this maybe. 

https://www.mcmaster.com/93337a800

 

Edit: This is dependent on the M14 being an M14 :)

 

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Slotted holes can be a blessing and a curse. It would be nice to not have to run a tensioner, so think ahead about how you will move the bracket to tension the belt.  Engineer something in so you're not prying on the compressor.

 

I made a bracket to relocate the PS pump on my 83 Toyota using 1/2" plate. The pump sat too high and wouldn't clear the hood. It has tapped holes for the original bracket. So redeye is correct, make it thick enough to tap.

 

Small_Pics_2_47_zpsd2b0c29e.jpg

 

Small_Pics_2_50_zps856f1447.jpg

 

Edited by Stoffregen Motorsports
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Ya I don’t know why I said 1/4” - the plate we were water jetting was closer to 3/4” actually. But it was just what lying around in the drop pile. 

Edited by 620_Brian
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  • 3 months later...

Late update.

It’s running, driving, terrorizing the neighborhood. 
 

Also...
* bought a tig welder (Miller Synchrowave 210). 
* learned how to tig (sort of). 

* built my own 2.5” SS exhaust (sort of). 
 

108630-A6-4440-4-D3-D-A874-61-D63827-D0-

43-D51-A1-A-EFED-4-FB8-8700-677-C8-D60-A

6-EAC58-CF-07-F2-4-C0-C-A052-7563266-B2-

E34-FFE1-A-5707-4931-92-CF-9-CD8-C1-F82-
 

My downpipe to snake around the torsion bar. For me, THIS was the toughest part of the swap.
Bear in mind, this is my very first tig piece. Awful welds but it works..for now. Plus it’s all going to change with the coil over conversion 😬
 

44-E35-A60-0480-4-E29-82-D3-868-A5-A1-A5

8-DBC0-D33-8810-4549-852-E-6-CF209699-C9

 

 

Idling, not overheating...sweeeet. 
https://vimeo.com/368993248?ref=tw-share‬

 

Absolute blast to drive now.
Exactly what I was going for. 


next up:

* finish AC. 

* coil overs all around. 

 

Edited by 620_Brian
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  • 4 years later...

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