crewdogch47 Posted December 29, 2018 Report Share Posted December 29, 2018 Hello to all . Looks like I need to cylinder head bolts does anyone have any recommendations ? I don't mind ARP Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted December 29, 2018 Report Share Posted December 29, 2018 (edited) 1 hour ago, crewdogch47 said: Hello to all . Looks like I need to cylinder head bolts does anyone have any recommendations ? I don't mind ARP You can reuse your old if you like it's ok with the L motors If you want arp studs, they list them under nissan and only for the L20b.... Those fit fine for the L16.... I used them on mine.... Edited December 29, 2018 by Crashtd420 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted December 29, 2018 Report Share Posted December 29, 2018 1 hour ago, crewdogch47 said: Hello to all . Looks like I need to (or 2) cylinder head bolts does anyone have any recommendations ? I don't mind ARP I may have read that wrong or you may have typed that wrong...... So do you 2 that are messed up or what's up? I have a full set of head bolts I will never need, your welcome to them for the cost to ship..... Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted December 29, 2018 Report Share Posted December 29, 2018 Because I'm bored..... Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted December 29, 2018 Report Share Posted December 29, 2018 Quick search and that was actually the best price, and summit has the free shipping..... Quote Link to comment
crewdogch47 Posted December 30, 2018 Author Report Share Posted December 30, 2018 Thank you for the info . I had the head rebuild and now I have a small water leak on the passenger side along with a leaking freeze plug. I replaced all six with autozone parts but I will be replacing them with brass. . I think that I will have to get the block resurfaced Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted December 30, 2018 Report Share Posted December 30, 2018 The blocks are quite stable but aluminum heads are easily warped. What I did was get a thick slab of glass from a stereo cabinet door and spray adhesive a couple of sheets of 80 grit onto it. Lay the head on top and pull towards you, then push away. Repeat. After about 15 or so the highest parts are sanding down nicely and the low area around the 2 and 3 cylinder are still rough... Now the going takes longer as there is more and more surface to remove... Getting there... 3.... 2.. 1... And gone. I had the glass so $3 for some sandpaper. The 80 grit produces a lot of large grains of aluminum 'dust' so every 10 passes blow it away or the head will just roll over it. When satisfied, I finished it with 150 grit. It was way to fine for grinding it down this fast. Altogether less than an hour and the satisfaction of saving at least two trips to a machine shop, plus the bill (what $50??) waiting 3 weeks and having to clean up their mess inside the ports. Sanding it like this doesn't get anything on the head. And I did it myself!!! I was able to get a 0.015" feeler gauge under a straight edge between 2 and 3 where less than 1/3 of that is allowed. When done it was under 0.002". 1 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted December 30, 2018 Report Share Posted December 30, 2018 Those of you who know me will also probably remember me saying how much I hate head studs. Such a pain in the ass to get the head on and off. Nissan OEM head bolts came in many varieties. Early ones were the weakest, 280ZX Turbo being the strongest. Most of the racing L series engines I built over the years used OEM head bolts. You can probably still buy new 280ZX Turbo bolts from the dealer. L20B head bolts were good too. Are the threads in the block ok? Did you inspect the block for cracks around the middle head bolt hole? Common place for them to crack. If you do find a crack there, it is possible to fix it. Quote Link to comment
G-Duax Posted December 30, 2018 Report Share Posted December 30, 2018 Also consider that if you just machine or lap the head to cure a warped gasket surface you end up with a strait gasket surface, but you still have a warped surface where the cam towers bolt on to, so the bores are no longer aligned. My first 510 was bought cheap because they had over heated the engine, warped the head, had it machined nice and flat, but neglected to address the top of the head, and promptly burned up one cam tower, and the cam journal that ran in it. I have read about good machine shops taking a badly warped head, getting hot, and putting it in a press to get it closer to being strait before machining it, just so that they didn't have to take too much metal off it when it was machined. In Japan they offer cam tower shims all the way up to 2mm to correct for large cuts. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted December 30, 2018 Report Share Posted December 30, 2018 That's true if the entire head is a canoe. Mine was more of a high spot between the #3 and #4 cylinders. Maybe over heated and it puckered. When assembled and torqued down the cam spun beautifully. Quote Link to comment
crewdogch47 Posted December 31, 2018 Author Report Share Posted December 31, 2018 Just a update guys I removed the engine today and got it apart and I don't see anything on the cylinder head or the block but I will be on the way to the machine shop to see what its going to cost to resurface the block and check for cracks and I will be installing ARP head studs and I think you have to remove the pistons and crank to completed the resurface so that more parts . Do they make APR Rod and crank bolts? Hope all of you guys have a happy new year 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted December 31, 2018 Report Share Posted December 31, 2018 Really, you need to not throw money at this. Fix what's really wrong. Did you do the work yourself? Did you torque the head down properly from the middle out to the ends? What was the finished torque wrench readings? Were the alignment dowels in place in the block? Did you totally remove all the old gasket material and clean the block surface? Did you clean the threaded holes in the block? What head gasket did you buy? Where's the water leak exactly. Is it between the head and the block? Could it be the heater hose fitting on the head? Or perhaps another core plug? yes they're not there to to pop out if the block freezes, many think so, but are simply there as an easy way for removing the sand inside the core after the casting process. ARP are no better than the old stock head bolts for holding the head on. They have their uses on a built up engine for racing but a waste of time and money holding something together that doesn't need it. Save your money. Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted December 31, 2018 Report Share Posted December 31, 2018 3 hours ago, crewdogch47 said: Do they make APR Rod and crank bolts? Hope all of you guys have a happy new year Yes they make them but unless your planning on nitrous, turbo or high compression , Mike is right and they are really not needed... If you really want them look for the L20b and you'll find it.... Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted December 31, 2018 Report Share Posted December 31, 2018 10 hours ago, crewdogch47 said: Just a update guys I removed the engine today and got it apart and I don't see anything on the cylinder head or the block but I will be on the way to the machine shop to see what its going to cost to resurface the block and check for cracks and I will be installing ARP head studs and I think you have to remove the pistons and crank to completed the resurface so that more parts . Do they make APR Rod and crank bolts? Hope all of you guys have a happy new year Did you even read what I said about racing engines using stock bolts? ARP studs are a waste of money and a pain to use. I would use ARP rod bolts, but check what size yours are first. There were small and large bolt rods. Quote Link to comment
crewdogch47 Posted January 3, 2019 Author Report Share Posted January 3, 2019 yes I did review what all of you have posted thank you for your help!!!!!!! Quote Link to comment
crewdogch47 Posted January 27, 2019 Author Report Share Posted January 27, 2019 Just a little update. After a trip to the machine shop it was found that I had a low spot on my block so it would need to be resurfaced and rebuilt at the same time. Its back in the car and running as of last night and I hope to have running better today. Its hard to tune the carb in the cold weather of AK LOL. It has to be running and driving before April so that I can ship it to my next duty station. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted January 27, 2019 Report Share Posted January 27, 2019 Tuning (valve lash check, timing, idle mix and speed, should be done after a through warm, up except the setting of the choke. The choke can take multiple tries and the difficulty is compounded by warmer and colder weather. (don't do this in the garage?) Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted January 28, 2019 Report Share Posted January 28, 2019 just ship the car. Hope your not going to drive it to the next duty station if it has a leaky head. and most machine shops take forever. Hate to see another car go to the dump and abandon. Seen this all to often when I was in the Airforce. Even I did this but it was a Fiat which belong in the dump. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted January 28, 2019 Report Share Posted January 28, 2019 Fix it again Tony. Quote Link to comment
crewdogch47 Posted January 31, 2019 Author Report Share Posted January 31, 2019 So on to valve adjustment the Nissan Service Manual says ( cold intake .20) (exhaust .25 cold) ( hot intake .25) (hot exhaust .30) . But after reading around I found out that most set the valves to ( cold ..008 intake) (cold .010 exhaust) ( hot intake .010) (hot exhaust .012.) so that's what I did. It only have about 40 miles on the rebuild and I need to drop the oil from 10w30. Any help would be great. The engine is not leaking any more after rebuild . Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted January 31, 2019 Report Share Posted January 31, 2019 Well .2 is probably mm... ÷ by 25.4 you get .008 standard.... 1 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted January 31, 2019 Report Share Posted January 31, 2019 Adjust valves to .010/.010 cold. That's inches. Be sure to check the clearance between the tip of the rocker and the lash pad. If you don't have a .010" feeler gauge that skinny, you can buy one on your Snap-On truck or maybe at your local auto parts store. In a pinch, you can cut a wide one with a tin snips and then smooth down the cut edge so it doesn't corrupt your measurement. Quote Link to comment
crewdogch47 Posted February 1, 2019 Author Report Share Posted February 1, 2019 .010 cold and that's it what about warm? As of right now you can hear them real well . Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted February 1, 2019 Report Share Posted February 1, 2019 Always set hot, that's what the engine runs at. 0.010" intakes and 0.012" exhaust. Cold assumes it will expand to the correct clearance. What if it zero F outside, do you set them cold then????? Set TDC #1 and adjust.... Ex #1 and In #1, In #2, Ex #3 Turn engine exactly ONE turn ot TDC exhaust stroke and adjust... Ex #2, In #3 and both In and Ex #4 Do it this way and the job is done so fast the engine has no time to cool down. Sure beats hitting the starter 8+ times and bumping it Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted February 1, 2019 Report Share Posted February 1, 2019 3 hours ago, crewdogch47 said: .010 cold and that's it what about warm? As of right now you can hear them real well . You know these are not quite valve trains .... yes it shouldn't be excessive but they do have a very mechanical sound to them.... flat tapet cam.... Quote Link to comment
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