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edekalil

R200 diff

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I see this r200 diff for what seems to be a reasonable price not sure if it is an lsd on the bay and before I pull the trigger on it need some input. I have a r180 I got out of a 240z way way back in the 90s sitting in the garage that I found out I can't use because of each side where the half shafts hook up are different. One bolts up like a drive shaft and the other has half shaft on it attached and I understand I can not use it because of that. So I figure if I get the r200 it has the correct connections on each side for the half shafts. I'm looking for info on will this bolt right in my 72 510 and can you use the original 510 half shafts or what would I have to do to make it all work out with this r200. Or should I look for something else better suited for  my car. I'm just putting a l20b in the car rebuilt with a mild cam. Just trying to get more weight in the rear as well.

 

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Edited by edekalil

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21 minutes ago, edekalil said:

 

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Just trying to get more weight in the rear as well.

 

Just put your mom in the back.

 

They bolt in but are physically larger and the mustache bar needs to be modified. Also you need to know what the gearing is. I had a 4.11 R-200 I gave to skib, fuck it as heavy. Last thing you want is a 3.545 when you're used to a 3.70.

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Unless you have 500hp it's not the right diff for you. R160's are so easy to find.

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It's a 3.54 gearing, I just don't want to wast good money. I'm looking for options for my car that's all apart to make it for use on the street and be able to take it to the track in Avondale,La. They built a ways back. I have a 280zx 5 speed trans to put in it and had the driveshaft shortened all ready.

I have the original rear diff from the car, the car was originally an automatic I'm not sure at the moment what or if there where any difference in the gearing between the stick shift and auto car diff's.

Just trying to get back into this project.

Edited by edekalil

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There were two ratios for the 510..... 3.70 and 3.90. I would assume the 3.90 was used with automatics and wagons and the 3.70 only on the standard sedans? Again this is only a guess. Usually this is the case with small displacement Datsun cars. 

 

If you have the original R-160 pop the back cover off and turn the crown around and look for numbers stamped on the outer edge. 37/10 would be 3.70 and 35/9 would be 3.889. 90s Subaru came with LSD and I think 4.11... or your gears would fit right in. Don't worry the R-160 is quite the stout differential and will handle an L20B.

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Well thank you Mike, I will use the original r160 diff like you said and post back hopefully before I go back Tuesday on the gearing stamping. So for now I'll use the original diff from the car and not worry about the bigger heavier one. 

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If you had a swapped SR of KA maybe it would make more sense. One of the best things I ever did to my 710 was remove the 3.70 and put a 4.11 in it. It just totally woke up every gear.

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I like the idea of the SR or KA swap but it way beyond my talents and cost so I'll stick with mostly what I planned 20 years ago with the L20B. Thanks again Mike.

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I had 3.70 and every gear was a long, long pull. Fifth was OK for cruise, but passing, a hill or strong wind you had to down shift. With 4.11s, often you don't even need to down shift. Fifth is a 12% over drive and the difference between 3.7 and 4.11 is 11% so they more or less cancel. One way to look at it is I'm driving around in the old 4th gear but I have 5 gears below it. Does that make any sense?

 

Gas mileage seems unaffected. On long trips last summer I got 32/33 US MPG. 

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18 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

I had 3.70 and every gear was a long, long pull.

 

That's what turbos are for 😲

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Yes, and no. A 4.11 will get the turbo up to speed faster than a 3.7.

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R200 is a waste of time/effort/money/weight unless you are putting down a lot of torque, and then I’d say get an R180 with an lsd.

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2 hours ago, datzenmike said:

Yes, and no. A 4.11 will get the turbo up to speed faster than a 3.7.

 

But it Revs the piss out of it on the highway. Also first gear is useless especially with a 2.4l with fast spooling turbo.. The 3.7's are much better for turbo, 4:11 for N/A. Just my opinion.

 

It all a trade off.

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Probably on a 20% larger displacement engine like the KA. Thought you were referring to the L20B.

 

Rev the piss? Not really. 195/60R14 tires

@ 60 MPH 3.70.......... 2,838

@ 60 MPH 4.11.......... 3,153 or about 400 RPMs

 

 

My mileage is still good on the highway,(around 33) I don't drive enough in town to know what it is.

 

Still maintain it's the best upgrade bang for the buck. Just a few wrenches, and a couple of hours. Does not mess with the engine tune. Does fuck the speedometer though.

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R160 is good for just about any L-series 4cyl, even a mod'd L20B.  Of course, the more burnouts, hole shots & abuse, you can destroy anything!  We run a CA18DET, chewed up TWO R160's, installed an open R180, no issues.  I'm GLAD we didn't install a Subbie R160 LSD that we have, cuz it would have chewed that up too (saving that for an L-series build).

 

The R180 factory LSD's are hard to find.  The later Subbie LSD's are great, but you must buy the custom inner stub axles.  Other than that, the R180's are a bolt in.

 

If you want to buy an aftermarket R180 LSD, you MUST identify the diff first...........I think 110mm vs 115mm.  Some companies offer an LSD for both, some for only one of them.  They are NOT interchangeable!  Yes, Troy Ermish can help you AND sell you one of his LSD units. 

 

R200 is overkill unless you are running a big horsepower turbo or V8 etc.  Installation requires some fabrication. 

 

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An LSD allows the traction of two tires to be shouldered by the differential. An open diff will only turn one tire. Basically a spinning tire acts like a fuse limiting the strain on the diff.

 

Indeed clutch dumps and burn outs are just abuse, and it should be no surprise that a differential, open or locked, fails because of this. If I had an LSD I would look after it.

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Stock R160 is 2 pinion and that's usually what dies. R180 you can find with a 4 pinion. Clutch LSD are 4 pinion and the spider gears don't end up racing around in one legged burnouts, so they hold up a lot better.

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I have a r180 I got way back out of a 240z but it has the issue of one side bolts up the half shaft like a drive shaft and the other has a yoke with a u joint. I think that was an issue to use it like that. Not sure of the gearing.

Edited by edekalil

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Somebody must have replaced one side 240Z stub axle with a 720 4WD axle that has a "captive" ujoint yoke!  Run that "captive" bolt  that holds the yoke in place out of the diff & toss it!  Pretty confident they would NOT have modified anything else, that the 720 4WD axle is a bolt in, but not really what you want to use!  Now you just need another 240Z stub axle to match the other side?  PM me if needed!

 

TJ

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the 260z had a r180 with the single bolt that holds the half shaft in where the 240z had the stub axle with 4 bolts to hold the half shaft 

all these parts are interchangeable so you can run either type of half shaft 

260 type 

Picture 1 of 3

 

240z type 

Image result for 240z half shaft

 

240z and 510 ones are the same and from what i have seen r200 half shafts are also the same 

Edited by Ranman72
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I'll be back on Sunday so I'll take some pics of it and post them. I'm not sure of the gearing so I'll get it opened up and find that stamped number on it. But if I find it's not worth the trouble I still have the stock 510 diff. And yenpit if I find it's worth using I'll take you up on your offer to help. Thanks to all for the help and info.

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We don't have big hills in So Cal just freeways, my vote is R160 sube my choice 3.70 lsd because they are forsale often  for 300 usually  , 3.90 were more rare , I have a 444 for race car that has 411in it  also gears for track.

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