Stoffregen Motorsports Posted March 25, 2019 Report Share Posted March 25, 2019 I'm curious to see how far you go withe the floor pans. I would remove the entire section, from flange to tunnel, but that's just me. If you do go that far, you can recreate the dimples in the floor (around the body mount bolts) on a press with different size tubing for dies. 3 Quote Link to comment
DanielC Posted March 25, 2019 Report Share Posted March 25, 2019 I am working on floor pans on my 521 trucks. See this thread. https://ratsun.net/topic/51593-floor-repair/ 1 Quote Link to comment
BrothersGarage Posted March 25, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 25, 2019 (edited) 3 hours ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said: I'm curious to see how far you go withe the floor pans. I would remove the entire section, from flange to tunnel, but that's just me. If you do go that far, you can recreate the dimples in the floor (around the body mount bolts) on a press with different size tubing for dies. Just tapping around with hands and tools it looks like the front half of the drivers floor could use a cut and replace. The rest appears to be surface rust so depending on where / how much room we need after seat rails then that may determine if we remove them all the way to the back of the cab but at this point it may be unnecessary until it's cage time. bro with the teaser pic of the brackets before they get cut out of aluminum. 2 hours ago, DanielC said: I am working on floor pans on my 521 trucks. See this thread. https://ratsun.net/topic/51593-floor-repair/ Thanks Dan for the heads up! I've scoured your thread and you work here: this is essentially what will need to be done on the drivers side Edited March 25, 2019 by BrothersGarage 5 Quote Link to comment
BrothersGarage Posted March 26, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 26, 2019 Trying to figure out the smallest battery I can stuff into the engine bay. Anyones thoughts on: https://www.amazon.com/Odyssey-PC680MJT-Automotive-LTV-Battery/dp/B000XEF3DM 1 Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted March 26, 2019 Report Share Posted March 26, 2019 AGM batteries are supposed to be pretty good. Any thoughts on supporting such a small battery? 1 Quote Link to comment
BrothersGarage Posted March 26, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 26, 2019 1 hour ago, mainer311 said: AGM batteries are supposed to be pretty good. Any thoughts on supporting such a small battery? Hopes of keeping it small enough and create a custom mount in the engine bay and if not it should be small enough to fit in the bed under the 521 Fuel Cannister cover I got from Bory: https://offerup.com/item/detail/582211342/ 2 Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted March 27, 2019 Report Share Posted March 27, 2019 yup love to see the floor pans. My truck looks stlll pretty good people ask if I want to sell, but I tell them the floors are rotted out where I hit puddle it spashes in my face. I just throw the rubber floor mat over the big HOLES call it good 2 Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted March 27, 2019 Report Share Posted March 27, 2019 Won't pass inspection around here like that. 1 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted March 28, 2019 Report Share Posted March 28, 2019 Big difference between left coast and right coast. Safety Inspections... Thank Christ we don't have those out here. 4 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted March 31, 2019 Report Share Posted March 31, 2019 Don't have them in MD if you register your car/truck historic which is what I did. Basically omits all safety/emissions testing forever. 2 Quote Link to comment
BrothersGarage Posted April 1, 2019 Author Report Share Posted April 1, 2019 (edited) Bro had the waterjet cut some aluminum pieces for the brackets for the floor this week. Just have to wait for one of the guys at his work to bend them on the press. new alternator in and it actually starts when you want it to. go figure.... got a new battery yesterday and put it in as well, but I am waiting on some more parts from amazon before shes 100% road ready. The previous owner has like 4 wires that need to connect to the positive and it's all jankey so I will wait for the new power junction block arrives before buttoning this up. new steering wheel cover going on and all buttoned up i bought some drill weld removing bits but they were just moving all over the place when i tried to remove the old brackets on the floor, so i ordered one of these this week: and put some more holes in the floor removing the old brackets got to work on chopping up the drivers seat this weekend as well: and down to the pans i also ordered a 3rd brake light that will go in the rear window (between the glass and the seal) 12" full led strip from diode dynamics Bro got a lot done on his bug this weekend at the same time including dropping the front of it by over 2" and ordering a bunch of parts to toss some air-ride on it. Overall super productive weekend. Edited April 1, 2019 by BrothersGarage 5 Quote Link to comment
BrothersGarage Posted April 5, 2019 Author Report Share Posted April 5, 2019 (edited) Bro got the brackets bent! should of had the battery fixed this weekend but I was sent the incorrect part so reorder and wait time. Back to the seats this weekend. Edited April 5, 2019 by BrothersGarage 6 Quote Link to comment
BrothersGarage Posted April 11, 2019 Author Report Share Posted April 11, 2019 (edited) Terminal adapter finally arrived, as did the new door handles, may be taking a trip out to pick up another set of rims for the truck this weekend as well.. Edited April 11, 2019 by BrothersGarage 4 Quote Link to comment
BrothersGarage Posted April 13, 2019 Author Report Share Posted April 13, 2019 testing out the new door pulls: 6 Quote Link to comment
mrbigtanker Posted April 13, 2019 Report Share Posted April 13, 2019 Very nice. It’s running. 2 Quote Link to comment
BrothersGarage Posted April 13, 2019 Author Report Share Posted April 13, 2019 (edited) On 4/12/2019 at 10:00 PM, mrbigtanker said: Very nice. It’s running. Yup! got the wiring all sorted for now. Back to the seats when the weather drys up - it suddenly remember it's spring and has been pissing it down the last few days and they are going to take more than an hour of tinkering to wrap up. Edited April 14, 2019 by BrothersGarage 2 Quote Link to comment
BrothersGarage Posted April 15, 2019 Author Report Share Posted April 15, 2019 Couldn't pass up on these set of sawblades for $75, so I went on a road trip today and picked them up. These will get stripped and see paint + polish before getting put on the truck. 4 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted April 15, 2019 Report Share Posted April 15, 2019 What are the specs on those? And what did you pay? 1 Quote Link to comment
BrothersGarage Posted April 15, 2019 Author Report Share Posted April 15, 2019 (edited) 38 minutes ago, d.p said: What are the specs on those? And what did you pay? Vintage 15x8 American Racing Type 26 "Saw Blade" rims 6x5.5 lug pattern. Bought for $75 and a 4 hour round-trip roadtrip with my brother yesterday. This is what they normally look like (though a 5 lug picture): but as stated I am going to strip / polish the lips and powder coat the faces of the sawblades. The rims I bought my truck with are a another set of American Racing rims so I already have the matching center-caps. Edited April 15, 2019 by BrothersGarage 4 Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted April 16, 2019 Report Share Posted April 16, 2019 Are they the huge chrome center caps made for fitting 4x4 trucks? I modeled and 3D printed much smaller caps for my American Racing wheels that fit the 521 front hubs. If I happen across the file, you’re free to have it if interested. 2 1 Quote Link to comment
BrothersGarage Posted April 16, 2019 Author Report Share Posted April 16, 2019 mainer311 - They are the same center caps! If you happen across it, I would love to snag that .stl file from you, thanks! 1 Quote Link to comment
BrothersGarage Posted April 21, 2019 Author Report Share Posted April 21, 2019 (edited) Bro and I have been working on some house stuff but in the down time I managed to get a first strip of the rims done while waiting on metal to finish the seats. Busted out the valve stems first: x4 Toss down some cardboard and brush them off before hitting them with a little of this: 30 minutes later and initial wipe-down: first spray off: rims looks solid but you will want to leave enough of the stripper on the rims so that it doesn't dry Got under the black paint fairly well! It got under the stock clear coat fairly well too! You can see where it turned the clear coat a milky color where it didn't fully remove it on the first time, but I will hit it again tomorrow. Edited April 21, 2019 by BrothersGarage 4 Quote Link to comment
BrothersGarage Posted April 22, 2019 Author Report Share Posted April 22, 2019 (edited) 30 min later: and bingo - bango: going to need to hit them a 3rd time - but that should do it. going to pick up some new valve stems on the way home from work tomorrow, and order the paint for the blades. no update on getting the seats in. Bro and I went on another road trip to hopefully pick up some parts to finish off both of our Subaru daily drivers. I managed to find a new driver window / door switch but someone beat me to the passenger fender I need to 'finish' buying parts for it. edit: the end of round 3 is here: Edited April 22, 2019 by BrothersGarage 3 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted April 22, 2019 Report Share Posted April 22, 2019 (edited) After seeing your experience with that stripper I will keep using the aircraft stripper. Aircraft Paint Remover Edited April 22, 2019 by Charlie69 4 Quote Link to comment
BrothersGarage Posted April 22, 2019 Author Report Share Posted April 22, 2019 Aircraft stripper works much better, but it is no longer sold in my area so I have to settle for the citrus stripper. That being said I really like the fact that I can just hit it with the hose and I don't have to worry about what it is going to do to my yard / the environment. 1 Quote Link to comment
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