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rosso

'72 510 Goon - Prova - because it will be a test

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I’ve situated the motor and trani in the car where I want it to sit. I have fabricated the trani crossmember and mount so the trani is secure. I’m in the process of installing rear steer rack and pinion steering. I have installed a front sump oil pan to allow clearance.

im using an mr2 rack installed on a jbc crossmember which I just received today. I’m waiting on new inner and outer tie rods. I’ve got new ball joints. Also have new adjustable tc rods coming and a kit to make my lower control arms adjustable.

im hoping to start on manufacturing the motor mounts in the next few days.

once I have the front suspension finished I’ll remove the motor and trani to begin body and paint.

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I was thinking about using an S10 radiator so that both hoses are on the passenger side.. thought that might make for an easier hook up.

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S10? They were L series with the top hose on the left and bottom on the lower right. Also too wide for a four lamp car or truck.

S110 were Z series with the hoses both on the right but much too wide.

 

Try an '80-'81 A10. They had a Z series engine with both hoses on the right and it fits between four headlights.

 

 

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3 hours ago, vetteguy22 said:

I was thinking about using an S10 radiator so that both hoses are on the passenger side.. thought that might make for an easier hook up.

It sounds like you have fabrication skills and resources - the radiator I got fits in the space and aligns with the holes in the front core support perfectly (other than the slight adjustment down and back from front which only requires drilling 4 new holes and using a rubber spacer on each bolt.

 

Fabricating the water hoses seemed to me to be easier than trying to find a different radiator to fit. The bottom hose is in the correct place already.

 

You can adapt just about anything I guess, I don't do welding and this was a bolt in replacement.

 

 

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That makes sense. The radiator you got looks like it should work well. Are you going with an electric fan or using the original mechanical?

The Chevy S10 radiator has been used before and I like the idea of not having the upper hose run back across the engine bay.

Yes I am fortunate to have some equipment to do light fabrication.

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AAAhh. That S10.

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Finished mounting the radiator - lowered it almost 3/4" from stock holes. It sits just about 1/8" above the front frame rail.

 

46732124512_9403cbb36c_z.jpg

 

Stock location looked like the filler cap would hit the hood.

Before:

45803469765_f731be4924_z.jpg

 

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2 hours ago, rosso said:

Stock location looked like the filler cap would hit the hood.

 

You might be surprised, the 510 hood has a weird cavity right there. My radiator, with no issues:

unnamed.jpgimage hosting websites

 

Build's looking good. Look forward to everything. 

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Yes, I really looked at that as well and thought it might clear - but since the hood is off the car and hard to get back on to check clearance, I thought - why not just lower the radiator and not have to do it later after everything else is in the way if it does hit. I am working alone on the project, so getting the hood on would not be easy for me

 

Thanks for sharing your setup.

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Make sure that air cannot get over the top of the rad and not through it. Nor under it. The 610 and the 710 and probably all Datsuns after the 510 have a small strip of rubber on the front of the hood that closes down on the rad support and seals this area. They also have a sheet metal 'belly pan' forming a rough triangle between the tension rods and the oil pan producing a low pressure area behind the rad. A

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Checking the fit of the splash pan with the custom oil pan on the VG33 is on my list of things to do. I don't have a splash pan, but will get one if it looks like there is no interference. My recollection is the splash pan does not really do a good job of sealing off the underside - on my first 510 I made a custom aluminum belly pan that went all the way back to the crossmember.

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If you need a nice splash pan, I’ve got one I can part with. Original, no rust. $50.

Rob

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Looks like a real time-capsule Wagon. Some day 510ers will be searching the earth for factory as-built reference photos like yours here. Those floors are amazing.

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Not sure what oil pan you’re using but I can test the splash pan on mine if that helps.

Rob

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It keeps road spray off the alternator and anything around the crank pulley. It only goes back as far as the cross member and not as far as the oil pan, although it could be trimmed. It prevents air getting under and up behind the rad. Trouble is it's in the way if working on anything and gets removed and not put back on. I had mine off so long I forgot about it and had to go search out back for it. I put it back on. A front spoiler would work even better.

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On 1/18/2019 at 9:08 PM, vetteguy22 said:

Not sure what oil pan you’re using but I can test the splash pan on mine if that helps.

Rob

I am using Dave's Experimental Engineering oil pan.

32947353328_0cf1d56069_z.jpg

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On 1/18/2019 at 8:09 PM, vetteguy22 said:

If you need a nice splash pan, I’ve got one I can part with. Original, no rust. $50.

Rob

Thanks for the offer of test fitting a splash pan with your oil pan (and compared to the one I have above) - I won't be ready to do anything about that until after everything is in and done and running. Most likely after the Canby=Powerland meet in June. But I will remember you have one - Thanks !!

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Started to work on the motor and disassembly. Here's what I found at the water inlet (thermostat):

31892611567_3c036071b4_z.jpg

I wonder how this wasn't leaking...

Decided to buy a gasket rather than try the liquid stuff.

Anyone who has done the swap or using a VG33 - did you use a gasket or just a ring of liquid sealant? Any reason to not use a gasket?

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Looks perfect to me. Nice flush surface and plenty of sealer squished out.

 

Generally I prefer gaskets, mostly home made. Sealer squishes out... and inwards. Ends up in the rad or engine.

 

I09FWrH.jpg

 

See this great long RTV 'worm'? I pulled it out of a KA head. Almost for sure some chevy owner had a 240sx and gooped that chevy blue goo on the water pump instead of using a proper gasket. Have found chunks of it in other engine's oil pans from using it on valve covers or oil pans. RTV should be outlawed on everything but GM products. Nissan didn't use it when assembling Datsuns... why would you?

 

 

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I agree with mike when it comes to sealing mating surfaces. I use gasket fiber material you buy at the parts house or hardware store , however on some of my newly made gaskets I like to put a very conservative amount of “right stuff” on them, not enough for any to squish out upon compression of surfaces but just enough that it slightly wets the mating surfaces.

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I have stripped all the wires, tubes, piping, and multitude of clamps (I really dislike clamps) off the engine and getting ready to install new stuff. It's nice to be able to see the actual engine now. Test fitting the carb intake manifold **bling**:

 

32971744448_bb97049c52_z.jpg

 

All the EFI intake, fuel injectors, fuel rail, O2 sensors, knock sensor, tubes and pipes are for sale in the classified.

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On 1/18/2019 at 8:41 PM, Tedman said:

Looks like a real time-capsule Wagon. Some day 510ers will be searching the earth for factory as-built reference photos like yours here. Those floors are amazing.

 

I am trying to keep the body and rest of the car as original as possible - even though I am doing the VG33 engine swap.

 

I was amazed when I got a good look at the floor boards since they are so good considering the car sat for many years. Seats, headliner, all in really good shape. Paint is good too with a bit of surface rust and a few deeper bits of rust but not bad. Lots of stone chips and those are rusting too. Since I am not a body shop person, it will be a challenge to fix them. The rear hatch has been replaced and needs some rust repair especially around the air vents and drain tubes. All in good time - getting it running as a daily is my first priority.

 

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On 1/1/2019 at 9:21 PM, rosso said:

Took the seats out to look at what I have - since I am waiting for other parts and trying to figure out the trans, clutch/PP/engine combo (will post that in the drivetrain forum)

 

It's pretty amazing what I found. After gathering up all the candy wrappers and a big can of choke cleaner, I vacuumed, did a light brass wire brushing, and here's what they look like:

 

Rear passenger with padding

45650334525_b2b56165dd_z.jpg

 

Rear passenger sound deadening and floorboards

31623390097_206b1cde10_z.jpg

 

Front passenger floorboards (no padding on this side except on the tunnel)

45650335415_1921f35a4c_z.jpg

 

A very small amount of rust around the plugs and edges of sound deadening. Most of the spots are just where the paint has flaked off the sound deadening - not rust. I am going to put two coats of rust converter on the rust then spray body color top coat. That's all I am planning to do and we'll see how it lasts.

 

and found two coins

32690827468_551f0992c7_z.jpg

 

Honest.

 

 

 

Very nice floor boards.

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