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'72 510 Goon - Prova - because it will be a test


rosso

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Can you PM me more details and cost for the whole unit - this might still be easier than rebuilding a valve. If I have to pull the whole unit out to get the valve off, maybe just stuffing in a whole new unit might be a good option. Is the unit known to be good?

 

Thanks

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It should be good. I pulled it from the car I built for my wife which I put vintage heat and air in. I know it didn’t leak and the controls seemed to move correctly but I never drove the car with it.

I’ll check it out better tomorrow and see if I can’t get you some pics of it.

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I will be installing my shortened drive shaft in  a couple of weeks (when I get it back) and wanted to use new bolts. Any recommendations for using 8.8. 10.9, or 12.9 hardened bolts? I want to order them now so they are here at the same time as the driveshaft.

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A metric 10.9 is equivalent to a grade 8. Make sure they are not threaded all the way to the head. I don't know what that E area is but unthreaded is stronger where the two flanges meet..

 

A325-Dimensions.png

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One job partially done - light works, just need to get the door switch to work.

 

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And received parts for the next job...

 

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Thanks to TJ (Yenpit) for the great job rebuilding a heater control valve - new innards and painted too. Ooooh, now I get to crawl under the dashboard.

Ouch, ouch, ouch. 🙂

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  • 4 weeks later...

I did contortions today and replaced the heater control valve. Pulled the heater box out to do it since the screws were rusted in and I stripped the Phillips slot right out. Remind me to never complain about rusted horn screws again. Seems like I did a lot of work on the car, but only crossed one thing off the list:

 

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Only 70 days until Powerland '21 so I have to get this going!

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Driveshaft in and reverse light sender loosened so tomorrow I will put new trans fluid in and see if I can back the car out of the garage at idle - because I don't have a throttle cable or gas pedal.

 

So that's what I am on the hunt for. Apparently something from a Sentra works, but no one has exact details - here is what carterb has in his race car:

1558363885_sentragaspedal.thumb.JPG.8756cf666a8e4481e5d14e4e237a3c4e.JPG

 

which is what I am looking for and here is the best part diagram and number I can find:

 

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and the cable:

1464575272_acceleratorcable.png.deb682e3cc37921e18fe6f69c63c3c45.png

 

All parts are discontinued and I have no pick and pull near me. I put it out to row52 and central grade autoparts in Idaho. Posting in classifieds also. 🙂

 

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1 hour ago, vetteguy22 said:

If I remember correctly I used the pedal and cable from a 1985 200sx that I had parted out.

Thanks for the thought, however it appears that the pedal pivot is on the wrong side until later style 1995-1999 that might fit. Anyone btdt with exact correctness. 🙂

 

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5 hours ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

I thought a B210 pedal will work also. Uses a cable

Looks like it might work with modification of bends of rod. The rod of the pedal on carterb's racecar is a perfect fit - so I am hoping to find that same model. Thx.

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I had a B210 pedal in my yellow 510 and was the pedal to get back in the day. I cant remember if also the cable but assume so for the Nissam Comp manifold. was sold thru the catalog at the time.  it was sold with a threaded plate one fluses up the the fire wall from inside and the cable threaded on the other and helt it together. really simple but worked.

 

what I did it took my stock 510 pedal and welded a end from another pedal so I coudl keep both the 510 ball end set up or the slot for a wire.

have to use a Maunual pedal as the auto pedal were too close to the brake pedal

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here soem stuff pieced together or I still might have

 

straight pedal is from automatic(not used)

I thinki found another pedal with a wire slot I cut ot off and weleded it to the left side of that ball  on the stock 510 pedal and never used the B210 pedal at all(b210 is the one with the stopper)

510b210pedals.JPG

510pedals.JPG

Edited by banzai510(hainz)
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Thanks Banzai,

All the pedals like the ones you have do not have the kink bend back to the right above the pivot point. I need that to line up the rod with the existing 510 hole.

 

I am sure I can make a slot or something to adapt a cable if the rod does not have that, but I don't want to try and bend a rod unless it is the last resort. Pedals from automatics appear to be worse than manuals.

 

I'll keep looking - if Carter can find one, I am sure one will turn up for me.

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Backed the car out of the garage under its own power today!  Yay, everything turns. I still do not have a gas pedal or accelerator linkage, so it went out idling by itself.

 

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