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'72 510 Goon - Prova - because it will be a test


rosso

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I pulled all the spark plugs a few months ago, sprayed fogging oil in all the cylinders and turned the motor over by hand a couple of dozen times to lube the cylinders. It spun easily and smoothly.

 

When I put in fresh oil, I pulled the valve covers off and poured oil all over the valve train. Also filled the new oil filter with oil.

 

I am planning to pull the plugs and then crank the motor with no fuel to get oil pressure.

 

I could pull a valve cover and check if oil is getting to the top end. Maybe?

 

Not aware of anything else I can do - what do you think?  - not easy like on the L motors.

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9 hours ago, rosso said:

I pulled all the spark plugs a few months ago, sprayed fogging oil in all the cylinders and turned the motor over by hand a couple of dozen times to lube the cylinders. It spun easily and smoothly.

 

When I put in fresh oil, I pulled the valve covers off and poured oil all over the valve train. Also filled the new oil filter with oil.

 

I am planning to pull the plugs and then crank the motor with no fuel to get oil pressure.

 

I could pull a valve cover and check if oil is getting to the top end. Maybe?

 

Not aware of anything else I can do - what do you think?  - not easy like on the L motors.

I heard of a trick, attach a fitting to the hole your oil sending unit goes.. 

Then get something you can pressurize,  fill with oil and attach to the fitting... 

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15 hours ago, carterb said:

I always see allot of noise about priming the oil pump on the VG.  What is your plan?  Some seem to think this is extremely important.

--carter

Since this is a motor that was running in Japan, not a new rebuild, is this still an issue or would the oil pump possibly remain primed?

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  • 2 weeks later...

Finally got the heater hose fittings and hoses done - what a relief after months of searching for hoses to no avail.

 

IMG_0643-1.jpg.2a97763b4a35acc60f59caea67764bab.jpg

 

Dave Carroll made me a fitting for the right side which is a VG33 modified piece while the left one is a VG30 that is just cut shorter. The flanges and tubing are NOT the same size for VG30 and VG33.

 

All I have left to do is the electric fuel pump in the back by the tank and tubing up front  to the carb. Then I can test run the motor.

 

 

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  • 3 weeks later...

Installed the spark plug wires and double checked TDC and distributor/rotor alignment. All looks good. So water and spark are taken care of, just need the fuel system and then I can start it up.

50781424346_25bb34f1e8_o.jpg

 

IMG_0663-4.jpg.b5b7075add451ab1a8d99eff789b2e1c.jpg

 

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  • 1 month later...

I was doing little things and received this:

 

IMG_0693-1.jpg.55e613438391124c7f1d0002881bb98f.jpg

 

So I installed it, continued to mess around and then I started the VG33 up !!

 

Runs sweet - if I could figure our how to post a video you all can see and hear it. Help me figure out how to share this - I have it on flickr.com but can't get it to post to ratsun.

 

Posted on youtube, as suggested below by thisismatt

 

It's about 45 sec and 90MB.

 

Loud as can be with just exhaust manifolds on it.

 

Happy day here!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by rosso
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I am not sure what the squeaking was, before I could even get a look at where it was coming from it went away and never came back as I let the engine warm up and have the thermostat open. So far all is good - oil pressure is good, stock oil pressure light works. Charge light also works and goes out so I think the alternator is working - I will put a meter on it the next time I run. Stock temp gauge works.

 

Not sure how to set the belt tensioner yet, so it could have been that.

 

Given how many wiring changes I made I am amazed that everything is working so well and that it actually started. For those who have not been through this here is a list:

 

 - voltage regulator removed and wiring jumpered for using alternator with internal regulator

 - removing automatic choke relay

 - removing ballast resistor

 - removing all the '72 L16 smog stuff (2nd set of points and throttle position sensor etc)

 - using VG33 temp sender with stock dash light (it works)

 - removing all the VG33 smog controls, EFI stuff, vacuum hoses and piping and installing a carburetor

 - using a Saudi distributor (with no ecu connections)

 - installing an electric oil pressure gauge and keeping the original warning light

 

I am sure there are other wiring things, but all the accessories work - lights, wipers, turn signals, emergency flasher, horn, heater blower motor. Not sure about the interior dome light since it does not have a bulb in it.🙃

 

It is certainly worth the effort - since the V6 sounds great and is so smooth - and you all know how much I like how it looks!

 

Thanks to all the forum members who have contributed their knowledge and support.

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The dizzy came with the car about 2 years ago from my son and probably a few years before that from Dave Carroll or a source he knew. But no one can remember at this point.

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So on to the next thing - the heater control valve leaks - as expected since it was corroded looking in the interior.

 

What is everyone doing about replacements? Anything really easy and "plug and play"

 

As I worked on the major stuff on this project I kept an eye on all the posts about parts and suppliers and have googled quite a bit. I bookmarked just about every site having to do with Datsun - looking at them all now, I don't see anything with heater valves.

 

I'm open to any ideas you all have. I posted a parts wanted in the classifieds.

 

Bought a bulb so dome light works on manual, not on door switch. I will eventually investigate.  =:0

 

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3 minutes ago, rosso said:

So on to the next thing - the heater control valve leaks - as expected since it was corroded looking in the interior.

 

What is everyone doing about replacements? Anything really easy and "plug and play"

 

As I worked on the major stuff on this project I kept an eye on all the posts about parts and suppliers and have googled quite a bit. I bookmarked just about every site having to do with Datsun - looking at them all now, I don't see anything with heater valves.

 

I'm open to any ideas you all have. I posted a parts wanted in the classifieds.

 

Bought a bulb so dome light works on manual, not on door switch. I will eventually investigate.  =:0

 

 

Try rebuilding the valve?

 

https://ratsun.net/topic/16631-stop-heater-valve-leak/

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51 minutes ago, vetteguy22 said:

I think I may have one if you want me to look.

Yes, please do look and let me know.

 

I am also looking for a passenger side "A" pillar interior trim.

 

IMG_0475-1.thumb.jpg.67d95b150ffda027d4f2e63f3239fb33.jpg

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9 hours ago, rosso said:

I am also looking for a passenger side "A" pillar interior trim.

 

IMG_0475-1.thumb.jpg.67d95b150ffda027d4f2e63f3239fb33.jpg

 

That is part of the headliner.  I have an old white headliner sitting here somewhere.  I can check if it still has that part on it.  Going to be difficult to install unless you just overlay it.

 

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That repair your valve thread also has a number of replacement options listed in it if yours is too far gone.

Edited by Lockleaf
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3 hours ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

Only defect I can see which is common among 510 owners that spend thousands on their car is a Bungy cord as the battery hold down.

Otherwise this car sounds great!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Thanks, I love how the engine is running. The only reason I have a bungee cord is to temporarily keep the battery from getting bumped while I work on the car. I was waiting until I had the engine running and was sure it was okay since I bought the engine from an engine importer and had no idea how it ran. I also bought a very cheap battery to use temporarily also, so did not want to make a bracket that would get tossed.

 

I don't have a driveshaft in yet either.

 

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