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'72 510 Goon - Prova - because it will be a test


rosso

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The ballast resistor wire is simple.blk whit is ignition the blk blu is the start or bypass wire which you need both

 

the wires from the dist you don’t need primary and the 2ndary

The switch on the fire wall not needed

the 12volt choke wire?????the the relay for that

 

the volt reg most just use the jumper wires OR using a old mating VR connector shorted the is plugged in

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Another positive thing happened as I finished the center console - I noticed this:

 

49771193933_2ba21b7b1a_o.jpg

 

The gas gauge works!

And it looks like there is enough of something (like gas) in the tank that maybe it is not all gunky or corroded. So i can drain it - maybe 2-3 gallons - and hopefully put some new gas with antifreeze and be okay. I can be an optimist. 🙂

 

If I can avoid pulling the gas tank out, that would save me a ton of time for stuff to get done. Right now I am up against the Powerland date and not being able to go out for parts or supplies and deliveries being delayed. Only 9 weeks and I still need to get the driveshaft shortened and have an exhaust pipe made to connect the headers (if EE can get them made) to my exhaust system.

 

Wrenching away on the Olympic Peninsula...

Edited by rosso
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Anyone want to recommend a brand of electric fan?

I'll take quiet, cheap, or good quality. Two out of three would be nice.

 

Anything to help narrow down the choices, since I don't know about any of them and never had one.

 

Seems to be a ton on ebay and amazon.

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Retrofit factory parts.  Pull a junkyard setup.  Best fans on earth and cheap too. Find something of a similar displacement and go from there.

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I installed a pair of Hayden fans just yesterday on the green FJ car.

They were replacements for the fans that had been in there for 20 years or so.

I was mightily impressed by their customer service.

--carter

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  • 3 months later...

It's been a long time since I updated - mostly because I haven't been working on the project. Finances and covid-19 have put a crimp on project funds. I did pick up a pair of red rear side marker lenses since mine were amber.  Took everything apart and wire brushed the rust out of the reflectors, rust converted it, then primer and then tried Rustoleum bright metallic spray paint. turned out okay, but not really chrome - so I won't use it to repaint the rear hatch vents.☹️   Anyone found a really good chrome paint? Here's the results:

 

IMG_0419-1.jpg.c7927cf789934e77c228eca38745d982.jpg

Just fine for the reflectors under the red lenses. Wouldn't use it for headlight reflectors. 

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  • 1 month later...

I decided to not use an MSD box partly because of shortage of funds (due to covid loss of work) I now want to run just a simple coil.

 

I have a Saudi distributor for a VG33 carb engine and I want to wire it directly to the coil.

 

The '72 wiring diagram has a BW wire from the ignition switch to the ballast resistor:

49250459823_36e420dc44_o.jpg

Since I do not need the resistor with the electronic distributor am I correct I can run the BW directly to the +coil terminal?

 

Here are the wires in the coil area:

50343483468_caf2dc582a_o.jpg

So I use the BW and the rest of them are un-needed? (they are for the relay and 2nd set of stock '72 points)

 

Then I just need to run a new wire from -coil terminal to dizzy?

 

Here are the two wires at the dizzy:

50344167146_0475110b1e_o.jpg

If I open up the distributor what am I looking for to identify the correct wire to connect the coil?

 

This would certainly be a simple wiring project and free up a couple hundred dollars I need for a Holley 2bbl carb.

 

Thanks to all the electric members who have been so helpful so far. 🙂

 

 

 

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  • 3 weeks later...

Decided to make some space in the garage by putting things back ON the car.

 

50421034102_4400c0f436_o.jpg

 

I had already painted the radiator and radiator support piece black - was thinking of painting the grille five center ribs black too but after I looked at it I kinda liked it all silver with the black behind it.

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Installed the distributor and cleaned up the coil wiring. Getting close on the water hoses - lower rad hose needs a straight metal 4" long adapter 1 5/8" to 1 3/8".

 

Water temp sender and vacuum fitting to distributor installed in manifold.

 

Not sure I ever mentioned that I got a set of cleaned up valve covers from Dave Carroll and gave him mine which had all kinds of brackets and hose tube fitting and long goose neck oil tube (it looked really funky). The Stant oil filler cap that fit fine on my cover did not seal on the new one ( VG33 vs VG30 maybe), so I had to make an extra gasket. Made a bracket to hold the check oil level tube. Details, details, details.

 

50420226658_1c198592fc_o.jpg

 

 

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As I work on the conversion, I go from one thing to the next depending on what parts I have or what parts I need to order and therefor change to another task.

 

Here's my latest task that needs a part:  the lower radiator hose from the 510 rad to the VG33 hose from the engine.

 

IMG_0538-1.jpg.5cffbbee37d4102b55a336ba3c3fcf68.jpg

 

I need a 3" long metal reducing coupler that is 1 5/8" (the VG33 size) then down to 1 3/8" (the 510 size).

 

I have searched the interwebs, jegs, summit, napa, etc but not found anything. So far the only proposed solution is to go to a muffler shop and have them make me a piece - but it would probably be just plain steel. An aluminum radiator coupler would probably just split if expanded.

 

Any suggestions? Remember I do not have any fabrication or machining tools and a local machine shop would be at least $50.

 

Cheers

 

 

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