Brake bleeder screw sizes

[rosso]

Does anyone have the brake bleeder screw sizes? Stock brakes on '72 510 wagon. Are all four corners and the master cylinder two all the same?

 

Mine are so rusted  I want to put in new ones before I start bleeding the brakes.

 

Are there more than 6?

 

Front bleeder at calipers:     Size xx

Rear bleeder at wheel cylinders:   SIze xx

Master cylinder (2):       Size xx

 

Size is something like M10 - 1.0 x 33mm

 

and sort of related - clutch slave cylinder bleed screw:  Size xx

 

Am I missing any? Might as well make sure I get them all when I order.

 

Thanks.

Edited December 14, 2018 by rosso

[banzai510(hainz)]

go to Rockauto.com(510) and see if they have the part and in to info section they might list the threads. but soem anti seize on them also.

 

PB blaster the shit outof it before removing

 

 

On 521s its much harder as when ordering a brake wheels cylinder they dont come with the blled screws!!!!WTF  and its siupposed to be SAE threads.

[rosso]

Rockauto does have some bleeder screws and that is one place that I looked at to confirm the size. They also have bleeders with check valves - would this work also and could I bleed the brakes without having to open and close the bleeder screw and have someone pump the brakes?

 

As I read the description it would appear that I could open the bleeder then go inside the car and pump the brakes a few time, then go close the bleeder, all by myself without getting air back in the line. Does that seem correct (which would be great)

 

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=452827&cc=1209989&jsn=385&jsn=385

 

I am working on all the bleeder screws with WD40 because I have it. PB Blaster should probably be on my purchase list.  ?

 

Edited December 14, 2018 by rosso
typo

[banzai510(hainz)]

PB Blaster is better than WD40.

 

As I read the description it would appear that I could open the bleeder then go inside the car and pump the brakes a few time, then go close the bleeder, all by myself without getting air back in the line. Does that seem correct (which would be great) .

 

Well if one has a long clear tube( I get medical tubes from a friend of mine whos wife is a nurse.

I get a clear plastic bottle and put the end at the bottom. as you pump the brakes it will fill up. When tube is free of bubbles and dirty fluid one just closes the bleed screw. When you let off the brake what fluid that does go baqck up will be clean and no bubbles. So either way is most likely the same. as I would still have a tube to keep from making a mess

[rosso]

I should have added that yes, I would have a bottle and a tube to catch the fluid - but that technically the check valve ball stops the air from getting back in the line?

 

So once the bleeder is open, I can sit in the car and pump the brakes repeatedly until no more air comes out - making sure that the reservoir is kept full.

 

I'm just needing to do this myself. Bleeder screws appear to be about $2-$3 each.

 

Or is it better to just go spend $33 and buy a Harbor Freight pneumatic bleeder that works off an air compressor?

https://www.harborfreight.com/brake-fluid-bleeder-92924.html

 

 

[rosso]

Power out here for entire Olympic Peninsula - main lines down - could be 24 hours. So I won't see any posts until tomorrow sometime. Batteries on laptops are almost down.

[banzai510(hainz)]

this is just me. I dont see alot of people on here or elsewhere using those ck valves .

If I have to fill the resivoir anyways I can ck the bottle for bubbles. Using that tool might need or use alot more fluid and the old way.

 

You can be the first to give a write upand review

 

Edited December 17, 2018 by banzai510(hainz)