b210 again

[bing_kee66]

my old beloved 4door had an encounter with a tree.

 

 

 

here it is in better days

it wasn't without its problems, had been rear ended in the same spot twice causing the leafspring to smack the chassis over most bumps,  the rockers were rusted through in multiple locations, as well as the bottoms of the doors. passenger side floor pan had a giant hole that i never got around to fixing. despite all this i loved the car, and im sad to see it go.

 

fortunately ive got a shell, the plan is to move my running drivetrain and basically everything else from the 4door to the 2door shell. a herculean task for a weekend mechanic with very limited tools,  and working in the backyard. nothing fancy, this car is meant for the road not the showroom, so i will be cutting a lot of corners(yes im painting over instead or replacing the metal, where possible). ive got a potential l20 for a swap but my priority  is to just get the car in running/streetworthy condition.

 

i may be cutting corners but i still want to at least slow the rust down a bit,  heres the  floor i started with 

 

after dry icing the tar, which ill say, wasn't as easy as youtube made it out to be. maybe i got some bunk dry ice, but there was still a lot of chiseling.

 

bare metal

 

after the por15 metal etch

 

and finally por-15d, and topcoated.

for all the hate i read about por15 being an "the easy way out," of rust treatment, it sure took a ton of work. i put about 4 full days into stripping the paint/seam sealer, grinding and sanding. and then there was the day of prepping and another day of painting. i guess i didnt have to top coat it because i plan on laying dynomat and carpet, but i figured i might as well while the paint was still tacky. haven't put in new sealer yet,  although it looks like the por took care of most of the seams for me.

 

here are some close ups of the rust spot before painted

passenger rear:

drivers front 

passenger front

ill probably use filler for these spots unless i find a better idea. 

 

all in all im pleased with the way it turned out, the engine bay on the other hand...

 

 

looks in the pictures, but what you cant really see is that i laid it on too think in some places and it dried bubbly. id never worked with this paint before and should have started with my floorpans(this post out of sequence). also, i was overly ambitious for what i could accomplish in a single day and was still painting while the sun was setting so there were shadows everywhere  . terrible idea. i will remove the bubbles where i can, and apply more paint.  also it has no top coat yet so im either going to either buy the self etching primer they make, or just sand by hand. haven't decided

 

 

[Crashtd420]

Sorry about the car, thats sucks about the tree.... at least your able to rebuild into another shell.

 

I did my entire 521 in por 15.... I didnt bother with the etching primer when I applied the top coat.. I think you have to scuff to apply the etching primer anyhow so I just scuffed and sprayed a top coat on it.... unless the por 15 is exposed to the sun top coating is not really neccessary.....

I ran into the same problem with the bubbles, its basically due to dry time not being long enough.. had to respray my engine bay too

Also it has been said you can skip the seam sealer, the por 15 will seal things up..... but that's up to you, I didnt bother..

[afracer]

Por15 is a pain to prep and it still is finnicky.  I switched to Eastwoods rust encapsulator, much much better and forgiving.

[bing_kee66]

Thanks for the info @Crashtd420.  If I have to sand the por15 to apply the etching primer than forget it,  I was hoping it could be used to avoid the sanding. 

 

I honestly hate working with por15, I probably will finish my engine bay with it but will find another solution for the underside and trunk area.  I dont mind the extra prep @afracer if it lasts, everything bad I've read about the paint was caused from people not taking the instructions seriously, I even went out of my way to hit some spots with 60 grit I'd it looked like the metal prep wasnt taking, I'm going to be really pissed if it starts flaking off in sheets. Also I don't like that it contains isocyanates.  

Edited November 24, 2018 by bing_kee66

[Crashtd420]

I cant say I would use it again either. I think there is other stuff out there that does the same, maybe even a little less toxic .. I continue using it just for consistancy in paint color.... I had no idea what I was doing when I started painting my truck... I actually had a much different idea before I started.....

I got lucky and it came out pretty good.

I followed all the instructions and have had no bonding issue .... 

[afracer]

I haven't had bonding issues, mine just bubbled up a few weeks after painting, and I followed instructions to a T as well. Eastwood's product is much less prep and turns out consistently better.