521 J13 frame and L16 frame the same?

[haubstr]

Bought a 69 521 that came with a J13. The motor was gone and the motor mounts on the frame were cutoff. Is the frame the same up front as the PL521 with a L16 and just the motor mounts on the frame different? If so I'm looking to buy.

 

Thanks

Jamie 

[wayno]

Yes the frame is the same except for the motor mounts, you will have to make the mounts and weld them to the frame.

If your going to put an L block into it you will also need to cut the J radiator mount sheet metal off, the front core support has the holes in it for the L block radiator, but it doesn't have the captured nuts, so you will have to either use nuts and bolts or weld the nuts onto the core support, I would not weld them myself as how often does one remove the radiator.

Edited November 13, 2018 by wayno

[420n620]

like to add to Wayno info,  the transmission rubber mounts are different and carb linkage. Also if your installing a L, the 521 L series trks use the same radiator as the 510's to help widen your search. 

[banzai510(hainz)]

just buy a 521 w L motor. don't waist your time dealing with this. Even if its FREE. You can find a better one out there. still lots of them

Edited November 13, 2018 by banzai510(hainz)

[420n620]

On 11/12/2018 at 9:34 PM, haubstr said:

Bought a 69 521 that came with a J13.

 

 

22 hours ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

just buy a 521 w L motor. don't waist your time dealing with this. Even if its FREE. You can find a better one out there. still lots of them

He already purchased the 521. Now what would you suggest he do ? 

 

how about a few pic's haubstr to see if it's worth the time to make road worthy, once again.  

[Crashtd420]

On 11/13/2018 at 12:34 AM, haubstr said:

Bought a 69 521 that came with a J13. The motor was gone and the motor mounts on the frame were cutoff. Is the frame the same up front as the PL521 with a L16 and just the motor mounts on the frame different? If so I'm looking to buy.

 

Thanks

Jamie 

Also why bother with the l16?

You already need to make mounts to do the motor swap so why not go with a ka or sr? 

Just something to think about....

Dont get me wrong I like the L16s, I have mine all done up, but since matching numbers dont matter why no go for something with more power and possibly efi..... 

[banzai510(hainz)]

Keep it L motor is the simpliest. EZ to maintain.

with 174 posts I dont know his skill level and craiglist are full of incomplete projects that whould be ezeer  to get a good deal and start.

What to do with the truck? strip and take to the dump. a J motor has the really low gear ratio also. so he wouldnt be happy with that either. Lots of work.

 

Be honest I hate fixing my 521. Kingpin trucks suck. Im on my 3rd set and just last weekend the upper link was shot also. EZ fix but its starting to get old. Lucky I have tons of spares but even that is going low.  When Im done with truck Ill sell it for 500. When it breaks on the next guy. a lot of non Datsun types, he wont have a clue to fix it and goes to the backyard or dump .

 

I think rockauto does have the replacable motor ounts with the rubber and the 521 trans mount for therear of trans

[Crashtd420]

7 hours ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

 

I think rockauto does have the replacable motor mounts with the rubber and the 521 trans mount for therear of trans

I don't believe the motor mounts are correct... unless they started carrying a different one...

A few years back I ordered motor mounts and found they sell the same one for the 521 as the 720.... not sure why they think its correct but they are not.... 

Also the transmission one is the flat mount also not correct for the 521.... 

But all is good in this case because he has to make the frame mounts anyhow, and you might as well use what's being sold now instead of searching for old nla expensive parts....

[Charlie69]

On my 1966 520 I cut the J13 mounts off of the frame.  Cut the steel mounts out of a 1980 720 frame.  I bolted these to the L20B and set it and a 5 speed transmission in my 66 520 and aligned everything up making sure I had the center line of the crankshaft on line with the center of the 520 frame. My brother welded the 720 mounts onto the frame of the 520. 

 

When I went to the 1980 chassis later for my 66 520 I cut the engine mounts off of the frame of the 520 and my brother welded them back into the 720 frame but we pushed the engine and transmission back a 1/2" for more electric fan clearance.   This was possible because we had already done a custom firewall to my 520.

 

This is all covered in my 520 build thread.

Edited November 20, 2018 by Charlie69

[haubstr]

Thanks for the replies. I just wanted to see if it was doable or I needed a new frame because of the width in the engine bay. I still may do the KA swap. I have running/driving swap under my belt already so that is a possibility. 

The body on this truck is very straight with only top rust. Came with a bed full of extra parts. I'll take pics as soon as I can, Its at my dads house two hours away. I'll be bringing to my house in a couple of weeks once I clear space out in my garage. Just bought a house and need to empty more boxes out of the garage.  

 

Jamie

[Charlie69]

The 521 engine bay is approximately 5' longer from the firewall to the radiator support frame than 520s.

[datzenmike]

"

[wayno]

I would find an L20b for it, you will also need an L16 truck oilpan/oil pickup tube.

[haubstr]

I understand "The 521 engine bay is approximately 5' longer from the firewall to the radiator support frame than 520s." But is the only difference between L521 and PL521 engine bay the addition of extra metal for the J13 radiator on the core support? Does anyone have a Pic of this extra metal that can be removed?

 

I am leaning towards putting the L engine back in.

 

Thanks again.  

[wayno]

The extra metal is obvious as it sticks out from the core support putting the radiator closer to the engine/fan, when I put my diesel engine in my 69 I had to cut it out and that is when I seen the holes for the L block radiator in the core support, so I didn't even have to drill new holes as they were already there.

The L block fits in there nicely, just put the engine/transmission in place with the motor mount frame hardware already connected to the rubber motor mounts, connect the transmission mount preferably with the drive line in place in the transmission to the cross member mount, then let the engine settle into place on the frame, tack the mounts to the frame and then check to make sure everything is right, then lift the engine with rubber mounts off the frame mounts and weld them in place, it's easier if you remove the engine.