Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
Figbuck

620 front suspension and steering

Recommended Posts

I am working on my '73 620. I need to replace the King Pins, upper and lower control arm bushings,  both tie rod ends, both steering arms, and  the sway bar bushings...  stabilizer, strut rod bushings. 

 

Question;

 

Is the suspension the same for all the 620s from '73 through '79?

 

Are there left and right Tie-rod ends or are they the same. Left and right steering arms or the same part number?

 

 

 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post

'73 through '77 should be the same suspension and steering. '78-'79 did not use king pins.

 

All steering side rods, and cross rod sockets are L & R. The toe adjustment ends are L & R thread.

 

The tension rods are L & R but the replacement bushings should be the same.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post

OK.  

 

My antique laptop won't connect to many servers, like E-Bay or even Rock Auto. I can get almost everything from AdvancedAuto, either from Moog or RareParts... except only the right Tie-Rod end and right Steering Arm... no lefts listed.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post

The two outer non adjustable rods look almost the same, but have different part numbers. There is a slight bend in them that is L or R.

 

The two shorter rod ends that are threaded inside are L & R threads.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post

Figbuck,

The tie rods are 1 piece, with no adjustable ends, the toe adjustment is made with the center link. Right tie rod  ACD# 45A2012, Left tie rod ACD#45A2013, available at Rock auto

The centerlink attaches to the arm on the steering box and the idler arm. one tie rod goes from the arm on the steering box to the spindle, the other tie rod goes from the idler arm to the spindle

Rick

 

AC delco part numbers

Edited by Rick-rat
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post

Don't buy rubber suspension bushings coming out of Thailand, they crumble within a month or 2.

Not sure what they are molding them out of, but it sure is junk.

Same with their peddle covers, they wear out in about the same time. 

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
8 hours ago, Rick-rat said:

Figbuck,

The tie rods are 1 piece, with no adjustable ends, the toe adjustment is made with the center link. Right tie rod  ACD# 45A2012, Left tie rod ACD#45A2013, available at Rock auto

The centerlink attaches to the arm on the steering box and the idler arm. one tie rod goes from the arm on the steering box to the spindle, the other tie rod goes from the idler arm to the spindle

Rick

 

AC delco part numbers

 

This

 

With L & R threads turning the center 'cross rod' pulls the wheels in or out to set the toe. Thanks Rick.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post

I have the AC Delco branded L and R tie rod ends. and got a center link from Autozone. also the link that bolts to the frame on passenger side.

turning the center link turns it in/out as Mike said I eyeballed matched the orginal to the new one before installing

KIngPins might now be harder to find. the 620 ones use a different size bushing on one side as the 521 uses the same size bushing , but otherwise they look the same. Have a reputal shop do this . Maybe Mike Klotz can do it????????????

Edited by banzai510(hainz)
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post

I borrowed an iPad so I could search for parts and be able to work the transaction. I kept thinking if I can hit the search words right, I can probably find everything.  RockAuto has some stuff, same with NAPA, but I ended up ordering what I could from AutoZone online. The stuff shipped the day I ordered it and was here in 4 days. The parts I got were from RareParts. For some reason I never could get the Rareparts web site to work and buy straight from them. But they did look parts up for me when I called. They didn't have any of the inner control arm stuff I needed. 

 

So I got the king pin set through AutoZone from RareParts, who ship out of Stockton Ca. It was pretty expensive, but Elgin Industries made in USA.

 

Two lower (outside) control arm bushings, Left & Right tie rod ends, Left & Right side tie rods all made in Japan. I got new sway bar bushings from Japan too.

 

I'm waiting for the rear sway bar stabilizer link. I ordered it from Moog Suspension online and it is the urethane bushing type.

 

The last things I just ordered today. They are two inner control arm assemblies; Upper Link Spindle/bushings... that are the same left and right... and the two Lower Spindle Arm Bush Assy RH&LH Pair. After searching and not finding any of the inner control arm parts available in the USA, I ordered them through and E-Bay. The seller is in Mexico, so it looks like all three item will ship for $38 and the parts take an extra 14 days to mail. So It looks like I'm going to sit tight for a minute. I kept thinking that I could find the inner control arm bushing stuff if I got the search criteria right... and maybe I didn't... but I wasted so much time searching in circles.

 

I talked to Mike and he is sending me the Upper/Outer Control arm bushing kits he made. Mike put the front Disc Brakes on my truck in his garage... I'm such a lucky guy! I don't think he would be that excited to R & R my KingPins. Maybe If I cleaned the fuck outta everything for him and plied him with a wad of cash! hahaha

 

I already talked to a Front End and Suspension shop that will do the work for me. The deal is that I get the parts for them. They have a machine shop that they send work out to. 

 

Thanks for the replies... I will let y'all know how everything plays out...

 

 

 

   

 

 

 

 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post

I’d like to improve the turning radius of my ‘78 620.  Besides cleaning and adjusting the stock box, anything practical to be done?

 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post

Like for drifting? Adjusting excessive slack in the box won't do that but if done correctly it can remove side to side steering wheel play. Have a care here.... most of the wear is in the middle or straight ahead position. If you remove all the play it will be tight on full turns. A tight box that doesn't want to return to the center position is to be avoided. Raise the front wheels and turn rapidly from lock to lock. If you feel any binding loosen the adjustment slightly and try again.

 

Better, is to replace any worn out steering ball joints and tug up and down on the idler arm. It may need new bushings. Also the correct wheel bearing pre load adjustment is important. The steering box ratio is 19 to 1 so if all the steering components wear or slack add to just 1/8" of total play, the box will multiply this to 2.375" of side to side steering wheel play.

 

Now that the front end is snug get a good alignment. If you have raised or lowered from the stock ride height you have thrown the toe out for sure while increasing bump steer.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post

What is the original turn radius for these?  I may already be there.

 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post

It's just a number.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post

Replace all worn out parts and take it to a good alignment shop.

 

I replaced everything on my 86 720 front suspension and also all the steering components and then had the alignment down at the Mexican tire shop I have tires done at and that was the best $50 I spent on the truck.  I still need to rebuild my steering box but I think I will convert it to electric steering assist instead of rebuilding the hydraulic parts.

Share this post


Link to post
On ‎12‎/‎21‎/‎2018 at 8:55 PM, Gery said:

I’d like to improve the turning radius of my ‘78 620. 

 

When I need to turn around in an narrow spot, I just get to one side,

turn towards the other, rev the engine, and dump the clutch. :)

Works every time.

I swear I can change direction in an alley only 3 feet wider than the length of the truck.

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
On 12/21/2018 at 6:55 PM, Gery said:

I’d like to improve the turning radius of my ‘78 620.  Besides cleaning and adjusting the stock box, anything practical to be done?

 

 

 

My SAS 4x4 with 35"s has a better turning radius than my lowered truck if that helps. lol

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  

×

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.